Manual brakes on street car

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by biker, May 16, 2021.

  1. 73Z L92

    73Z L92 Veteran Member

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    I had manual brakes in my 67 Nova LS swap. Bought a bunch of parts from Tobin at Kore3 so it was kind of designed to work together. They worked really well.
    My concern is if you do let others drive the car make sure they understand the difference between power and manual. They can both work well, just need to push harder on manual setup.
    Another thing to consider is maybe adjustable proportioning valve so you can really dial in the rear brakes?
     
  2. $ Mike 70 Z-28

    $ Mike 70 Z-28 Veteran Member

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    biker.. do you have a spacer under the carb? if you you do, they have a 90*elbow that sit low in the manifold to run the hose to the booster
    on the manual setup your not going to like it
     
  3. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    Thanks very much guys. Realistically, inwill probably stick with the power brakes and eventually go with the hydroboost. Engine makes 13.5" vac right now, so plenty to run the brakes, just the lack of a port pissed me off.
    Mike, I do have a spacer, but it is a custom one made by G72Zed and has no port in it. No biggie for now, I may be able to fit a low profile 90 under the carb, or I will drill and tap my intake in a convenient spot.
    Teed into pcv for the time being. I dont like doing that, but it runs and drives fine for now.
     
  4. DesmoEd

    DesmoEd Veteran Member

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    I've used a heat shield in the past to gain carb height to access the rear intake vacuum port. I think it was ecklers that had a large selection of vacuum port fittings in all shapes and sizes.

    Normally I'm very much a KISS guy but I'm so glad I made the decision to go to hydra boost on the Camaro, you won't regret it
     
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  5. C4Racer

    C4Racer Veteran Member

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    A well designed manual brake system is fantastic. But it depends on reasons and what level of braking you are trying to achieve. I went for an all out road race capable set-up and it works oh so well - but you have to pay attention to a lot of details to get it right. Power set-up is far more forgiving to parts selection. If you have the vacuum to run power brakes and you have a set-up that works - I would seriously not change it just to have a more mechanical solution.

    In general you need a lot bigger piston area in the calipers, so the typical units that people swap such as C5/6 or the typical Wildwood stuff - generally don't have large enough PA. You really want something in the 5-6sq-in range with a large rotor (rotor size also matters) such as a 14" and a master in the 7/8" to 15/16" bore range depending on the PA you end up with. I have heard of people running smaller calipers in the 4.x PA range with 3/4" masters but I can't give any input how much pedal pressure those setups have.

    My system was designed to have a very reasonable pedal pressure - and driving it is really no different from driving a 2016 SS Camaro as far as pedal feel, firmness and force required to get hard into the brakes. It's very linear and very easy to modulate - the pedal travel is slightly longer than a power set-up, but it's not that noticeable. But to get there it really takes a lot of planning - you also need to get the pedal ratio right and ideally run a balance bar for front rear balance. My set-up currently is split just about evenly front to rear bias and seems to be pretty good on the street but I need to get some track time to see how it really does under fire. I am running StopTech 6 piston race calipers with a 5.8 PA front and 4 piston rears - forget the rear PA but it's smaller. Both 14" rotors. You really need a 13-14" rotor to work well on a manual brake set-up and that is going to mandate 18" wheels with good caliper clearance too.

    So bottom line - I wouldn't go there if I were you. But it can be done and it can work really well when designed right on both street and on the track.
     
  6. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    Thanks Ed, I agree. I have hydroboost on my pickup and it works really well.
     
  7. Zspoiler

    Zspoiler Veteran Member

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    With the way the traffic is anymore .It would be better to have power brakes .Your legs will thank you for it in the long run.
     
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  8. mannix77

    mannix77 Member

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    I made the change on my 77 and purchased the stock master cylinder for a 77 manual brake optioned car.
    This has a smaller piston to help with the pedal epressure and the braking is not to bad to deal with.
    Easy change over.
     
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  9. Schubitzky

    Schubitzky Veteran Member

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    can you elaborate a little more on your setup? do you know part numbers or anything? Thanks.
     
  10. Jon Randolph

    Jon Randolph Member

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    I’m doing manual brakes on my ‘79 Trans Am with a super simple factory setup.

    One of the most important parts with manual brakes is master cylinder bore size and brake pad choice. In my case, I have the Hawk HP+ pads for the standard D52 calipers.

    Before going manual brakes, I would do the budget 1LE upgrade with Hawk HP+ pads. That will be around $200. That will get you a 12” rotor with your factory brake system. Don’t even have to bleed the brakes for that haha

    Many people will tell you to do Corvette or other crazy brake kits. Those are nice brakes and I’ve had/driven them but it’s often overkill for most people IMO.
     

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