badazz81z28
Veteran Member
I was just wondering how many inches did you drop the mounting tab? Thanks
Modified Stock crossmember for T56
- Thread starter badazz81z28
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schitzo
Veteran Member
I think it would vary depending on the angles of the rest of the driveline. I am just about to do mine and I am going to drop it as far as I can while making sure to remain within the proper driveline angle range. If it turns out to be too low after everything is welded up, I know I can shim it. Mine will be sitting behind an LS1 so it might be diffrent from the gen 1 SBC/BBC setup
badazz81z28
Veteran Member
I really dont understand the concept of "all depends" Thats like saying all tranny crossmembers are different. Anyone who has a T56 in a sec gen camaro will require the same angle. If anyone disagrees please explain.and why I can do a 4 speed swap and use the Xmember from another 4 speed car. Thanks
The mounting pad on the T56 is 1.625" lower than the mounting pad on a TH-350. So, if the car was originally a TH350 auto car, drop the pad 1.625", and you'll keep the same driveline angle. With the way the back of the T56 is built, though, you'll need to notch the crossmember for the case to clear. I have a picture of mine on my website.
Slide the whole crossmember back 6-6.5", and redrill new holes. Whatever you do, don't get the crossmember off center left to right. After all these years, I just recently noticed that I shifted mine about .25" to the right, which could explain some driveline "busy-ness" that I feel above 80mph.
I'm having trouble getting my PMs to open up, so I hope that answers your question.
EDIT- the amount back that I gave is for an LT1 T56 with LT1 clutch parts and bellhousing used. If you're going aftermarket, that'll change the distance.
Todd
Slide the whole crossmember back 6-6.5", and redrill new holes. Whatever you do, don't get the crossmember off center left to right. After all these years, I just recently noticed that I shifted mine about .25" to the right, which could explain some driveline "busy-ness" that I feel above 80mph.
I'm having trouble getting my PMs to open up, so I hope that answers your question.
EDIT- the amount back that I gave is for an LT1 T56 with LT1 clutch parts and bellhousing used. If you're going aftermarket, that'll change the distance.
Todd
badazz81z28
Veteran Member
Todd80Z28 said:
Hey, No problem.. I very do appreciate the response! Thanks
badazz81z28
Veteran Member
Todd could you direct me to where the pictures are? I searched the site and couldnt find it. Im blind. Thanks
LMAO. I lost the link somehow. Funny, I haven't edited that site in two years??
Note the notch on the top center to clear the trans. This pic isn't quite right- the tab on this is actually 2.0" down from the factory spot, and you only need to go 1.625". In fact, you may not even need to notch with it being 3/8" higher than shown. I'd have to measure to be sure, and I can't get under the car right now (home improvement stuff stacked up in the garage).
Note the notch on the top center to clear the trans. This pic isn't quite right- the tab on this is actually 2.0" down from the factory spot, and you only need to go 1.625". In fact, you may not even need to notch with it being 3/8" higher than shown. I'd have to measure to be sure, and I can't get under the car right now (home improvement stuff stacked up in the garage).
schitzo
Veteran Member
This link might also have some info that can help. Click on the 'mounting'
http://www.tynic.com/81ls1ta/81ls1ta.htm
http://www.tynic.com/81ls1ta/81ls1ta.htm
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badazz81z28
Veteran Member
You guys are great!!! Thanks a whole lot!!!
Todd is there a specific reason why your pad had to be moved down 2.0"?
Todd is there a specific reason why your pad had to be moved down 2.0"?
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