My 1971 LS Swapped Pro-Touring Project

Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by 1971CamaroGuy, May 15, 2012.

  1. Speedfreq

    Speedfreq New Member

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    Just curious if you had tried to use any of the ABS headliners and if so what issues did you run into? I purchased one for my 70 but have not yet had a chance to try and fit it.
     
  2. 1971CamaroGuy

    1971CamaroGuy LS Swapped 1971 Camaro

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    I did actually, the one I purchased didn't fit great at all. I think where these work out good is with the later models with the seatbelt retractors in the roof, because the way the headliner is cut it acts as a relief around the retractor and fits better. You could almost get away with a flat piece of abs for a headliner.

    On our cars, the headliner needs to be molded into a bowl shape, and because of that...I could never get it to fit right in my roof. It wasn't molded enough and did nothing but buckle when you tried to install the dome light.

    Plus the abs is pretty heavy too
     
  3. 1971CamaroGuy

    1971CamaroGuy LS Swapped 1971 Camaro

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    Well, I hit a milestone in life, I am around $400 away from paying off a 10 year student loan and will be freeing up quite a bit of monthly funds. Have most of my debts paid off and my credit score above 800 now.

    I've pretty much stopped doing the fiberglass side stuff now, just burnt out of it since it's been something I have been doing for about 10-12 years.

    I want to start doing some things to my 71 that takes a little more money, like some high tech wheels and tires, and definetly new paint and finally get it right.

    The botched job I got when I had it done 5-6 years ago has been something that bugged me this whole time. I am at the point now where I am ready for the car to look the way I had intended originally. Who knows, might even change the color, even though I am partial to red.

    Here's some of the things I done this year:

    A Dakota HDX cluster, and I pulled the dash harness and started doing some clean-up and re-wiring. I built this new contraption that will sit in the center behind the dash, it's been wired in a way that it will be plug in play to my AAW harness.

    Built it out of 1/4" plexiglass and used color matched wiring to my AAW harness where I could. There's a gps module, shift indicator module, headlight (daytime lamps) module, and a BIM module to plug into my terminator LS system.

    20210619_181537.jpg

    Also picked up a WS6 rear disc calipers and mounts, going to re-work my rear brakes to a factory style rear disc set-up. I never liked the kit I bought that useds cadillac calipers.

    20210619_181519.jpg

    Also picked up a new fuel tank (third one) and a Holley Fuel pump / sender kit for LS engines to put in it.

    What sold me on that fuel pump was the fact it has a return and pressure regulator built in so I will just be a one line hook up, I can get rid of the external fuel pressure regulator mounted under the car, it will look cleaner.

    https://www.holley.com/products/ls_...dy_ls_swap_components/fuel_tanks/parts/12-301

    20210619_181444.jpg

    Also picked up some complete stainless brake lines, based on the WS6 set-up in the rear and the F/R line has been extended to fit my wilwood booster.

    Along with this is a new 3/8" stainless fuel line with the ends fitted with 6 an fittings instead of OE.

    20210619_181551.jpg

    But the first order of business when I am ready to jump back on the car, is I think I am going to pull the front cap, engine and take the subframe to a powder coater.

    I painted it when I first put the car together, I have had brake fluid leaking on it, drilled random holes I don't use anymore, Like to make it look as nice as the new suspension parts under it, and just as durable. Plus I need to check it for squarness, and possibly straightened if it's out of square.

    And lastly smooth my firewall and get rid of the screw on plate that covered my old AC system, I kind of wished I did that from the get go and painted it body color.
     
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2021
  4. dave@ztech

    [email protected] Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Really like the DD work you did, such a neat setup and neat work!! Depending on where you live , I have a company that builds play equipment, and they do powder coating , I am sure I can get you a deal, there are in Gary Indiana , you need to make a setup like what you have for the DD dash, and make one for an LS swap, so the person installing would just run the power and ground, and poof , the system would be up and running, HAAA HA
     
  5. 1971CamaroGuy

    1971CamaroGuy LS Swapped 1971 Camaro

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    Thanks for the offer, I would have to ship it that's the only issue. There's a powder coater in memphis tn that would be about an hour from me that would be able to drive it over, not sure what they charge though. But I have some G-Braces, and possibly core support I wanted to get powdercoated too.

    Yeah on that DD electronics board, I spent a lot of time on the wiring, the only thing that would need wiring are the plug in sensors, but I made those where I can screw them in with spade terminals on the left side. Got real anal about the wiring lol....the best part of this is I discovered ferrule crimp terminals, makes the wiring going into the modules a lot cleaner.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TZ5BBG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
     
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  6. 1971CamaroGuy

    1971CamaroGuy LS Swapped 1971 Camaro

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    Got a reply back from one of the powdercoaters in memphis and he ballparked $300 to do my subframe in gloss or semi-gloss black...so I am def going to go that route and do another minor rebuild of my subframe and suspension. Pretty much taking off the new parts and them putting them back on.....but I will sleep better at night knowing my subframe will keep a nice look a lot longer lol

    If anyone has any ideas, tips or tricks to do while I have it off let me know, I have seen some folks weld up all of the seams, I do know I will prob fill in and weld up the original 74 or 75-81 hole (remember this came out of a 76 camaro).
     
  7. linenoise

    linenoise Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    couple things....
    that's awesome you are getting your debts paid off. it takes great control not to use revolving accounts(cc's) and keep bills down. most people like things like for instance nice cars or car parts. but if you have to loan out all this stuff and pay on that loan with interest it slows you down from getting to a low monthly operating expense(Opex). check out ERE forums,
    (https://forum.earlyretirementextreme.com/index.php)
    those people take it very serious and work on getting monthly OPEX down to extreme lows so they can save and retire early.
    On parts, I had built a 1973 camaro long ago. I put a 1979 transam rear end on it. to get the posi and disc brakes. it came with those same brake calipers. I loved my new brakes but one thing that I absolutely hated was parking. I had a stick with the super T10 out of that same donor car. and those calipers will not hold anything no matter how hard you clamp the brake cable and step on that pedal. just will not hold. If you run those do not count on them for parking brake. get one of those driveshaft EB's. something cause those just do not work, forums in transam groups talk about it all the time.
     
  8. Buswrench

    Buswrench New Member

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  9. Buswrench

    Buswrench New Member

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    Would you consider making one more set of the 6.5 speaker pods ?? I am Building a 70 Formula .
     
  10. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    They actually hold incredibly well if your get them properly adjusted. It is a bit of a myth that they don’t work. It took me forever to find out how to do it. It is a little crazy that this is what you have to do but it works every time.

    The E brake is on a ratchet type system. As the rear pad wears the ebrake cable can’t pull tight enough to clamp the pad. The fix is easy.

    First make sure your cables are adjusted and have some tension on them.

    Next, climb in the car and push and release the brake pedal no less than 30 times, yes 30 times. You should now have a fully functional ebrake. If it is still not holding completely tight repeat. Yiu may need to tighten the cable as well and repeat.

    If you don’t use the e brake regularly or haven’t used it in a long time it may take a couple of cycles to get the ratchet mechanism and pad where it needs to be to properly clamp.

    I found this out on a Trans Am forum as obviously all those guys live with that set up.
     

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