My 81 - The Green Dream

RickM

Veteran Member
Apr 16, 2004
765
Gaithersburg, MD
Back on the drip rail today. But first I thought since most of the weight is now on the car except for the front drivers seat, I would tighten down some of the suspension starting with the leaf spring perches. I wish I would have tightened them down before I put the gas tank in because I really cant get a socket on the nuts so an open end wrench will have to do. Laying on my back on the concrete for almost 40 minutes I was able to get the nuts pretty damn tight but man that gave my arms a workout. Not sure if you can see in the pics how tight it is to get to the nuts with the gas tank installed


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On with the drip rail the new drip rail is a lot different than what was originally on the car. First of all it is a lot stiffer (Stainless) and the part that mounts to the car is much different.
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I installed it the same way as I did the vertical side. First, lay down the putty
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Then screw her down
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Then remove the protective tape and show her off

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I then started removing the old tape/foam from the weatherstrip channel, that is a pain in but. I used a razor to get most of it off, than hit it with a wire brush and finished with acetone. It gets 99% of it off which is good enough. Still it took a good hour and I still want to get it a bit better. I bought a roll of foam/tape that is supposedly just for this years ago from ebay. Tomorrow I will hopefully get this installed and move on to the weather stripping and window adjustment, that should be fun

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You can see the blow out clip by the rivets here.

Rickm
 

Twisted_Metal

Administrator
Staff member
Lifetime Gold Member
Feb 26, 2004
30,848
Bloomington, MN
Does the window sweep clear the drip rail when you close the door?
The tip of the rubber on the sweep (driver's side only) gets caught on the drip rail.

I've never bothered to try adjust it.
It doesn't cause wind noise or leak water inside so it's just little quirk I've learned to live with.
 

RickM

Veteran Member
Apr 16, 2004
765
Gaithersburg, MD
Does the window sweep clear the drip rail when you close the door?
The tip of the rubber on the sweep (driver's side only) gets caught on the drip rail.

I've never bothered to try adjust it.
It doesn't cause wind noise or leak water inside so it's just little quirk I've learned to live with.

Yes mine seems to clear ok not by much though.
 

RickM

Veteran Member
Apr 16, 2004
765
Gaithersburg, MD
Installed the weatherstrip channel/gutter and tucked in the weatherstrip. It is metro. Now comes the fun part of adjusting the window. I imagine I will be swearing a bit when attempting that chore.

I did not put any weatherstrip adhesive anywhere. I suppose I should put some on the ends. What have you guys done, leave it dry or glue it.

My door still shuts and seals very well now that the metro door seal has been on for a couple of months.

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Someday she will be done
RickM
 

8pack

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Aug 29, 2007
3,018
Western, MA
I don’t want to pee on your parade but if you really cranked down on the nuts on the spring shackles you are going to have significant binding and a harsh ride. You don’t want those nuts that tight.

I can’t tell what kind of nut you used but the best solution is to use a “top nut” which is all steel and can’t back off. Tighten the nut until you have just taken the slop out so the shackle are snug, but not tight against the bushing.

Even though the car has all the weight on it now it still needs to be driven a little bit before the bolts are fully snugged up. It all needs to settle out before the final tightening. Again, if you over tightened them now the suspension won’t be able to settle out when you drive it…..

Those look like poly bushings? If so you want to get some of that sticky silicone lubricant between the shackles and the bushing and it doesn’t hurt to put it in the bushing sleeves as well. Even if they are rubber that is a good idea.

You may want to consider going back over your install. You don’t necessarily have to take it all apart. If you spread open the shackles when you loosen or replace the nuts you can easily get the silicone lube in there with a small acid brush or long flat head screwdriver.
 
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hubedobeedo

3rd times a charm
Jul 18, 2013
846
Huntertown,IN
I don’t want to pee on your parade but if you really cranked down on the nuts on the spring shackles you are going to have significant binding and a harsh ride. You don’t want those nuts that tight.

I can’t tell what kind of nut you used but the best solution is to use a “top nut” which is all steel and can’t back off. Tighten the nut until you have just taken the slop out so the shackle are snug, but not tight against the bushing.

Even though the car has all the weight on it now it still needs to be driven a little bit before the bolts are fully snugged up. It all needs to settle out before the final tightening. Again, if you over tightened them now the suspension won’t be able to settle out when you drive it…..

Those look like poly bushings? If so you want to get some of that sticky silicone lubricant between the shackles and the bushing and it doesn’t hurt to put it in the bushing sleeves as well. Even if they are rubber that is a good idea.

You may want to consider going back over your install. You don’t necessarily have to take it all apart. If you spread open the shackles when you loosen or replace the nuts you can easily get the silicone lube in there with a small acid brush or long flat head screwdriver.
metal lock nuts ,spray silicone where it goes through bushing. jegs and summit have small tub of silicone grease definitely wear disposable gloves when using and try not to get on anywhere but where you want it lol.
 

RickM

Veteran Member
Apr 16, 2004
765
Gaithersburg, MD
I don’t want to pee on your parade but if you really cranked down on the nuts on the spring shackles you are going to have significant binding and a harsh ride. You don’t want those nuts that tight.

I can’t tell what kind of nut you used but the best solution is to use a “top nut” which is all steel and can’t back off. Tighten the nut until you have just taken the slop out so the shackle are snug, but not tight against the bushing.

Even though the car has all the weight on it now it still needs to be driven a little bit before the bolts are fully snugged up. It all needs to settle out before the final tightening. Again, if you over tightened them now the suspension won’t be able to settle out when you drive it…..

Those look like poly bushings? If so you want to get some of that sticky silicone lubricant between the shackles and the bushing and it doesn’t hurt to put it in the bushing sleeves as well. Even if they are rubber that is a good idea.

You may want to consider going back over your install. You don’t necessarily have to take it all apart. If you spread open the shackles when you loosen or replace the nuts you can easily get the silicone lube in there with a small acid brush or long flat head screwdriver.

Thanks for that info. The bushings, and hardware came as a kit from OER, they are not poly just stock rubber. I greased the shafts of the bolts when I installed them (probably about 5 years ago). I am going to take your advice and loosen things up. Maybe see if I can get a little more grease in there somehow (spray grease maybe?). Drive it for a bit and then re-tighten.

RickM
 

RickM

Veteran Member
Apr 16, 2004
765
Gaithersburg, MD
Ok how many times does it take to get the door window adjusted with new weather stripping? For me about 200. Adjust close door repeat. Adjust sometimes moving things as little as 1/8 inch. Finally it shuts and seals. Yes more effort is required closing the door with the window rolled all the way up
but I believe it will get better over time
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While I was doing this I did not have the exterior door handle installed so it was adjust, walk to the other side of the car and open the door with the inside handle. So I decided enough and installed the exterior door handle
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Seems to work fine, I also put a new gasket on the handle before installing it.

I also loosened the shackle bolts. Gonna leave them just snug until I get a few miles on her. But when will that be, who knows. After I got the car back from paint I thought I would put it together fast, NOT. Every step takes 10 time longer than I thought. But I dont care I am enjoying the journey. I still have to:
  1. Find someone to install the front and rear windshields
  2. Install the mirrors, both side and front windshield
  3. Install door locks
  4. Install the front nose and get lights working (Nose is painted)
  5. Install front upper and lower grill
  6. Install wheel trim rings
  7. Install passenger drip rail
  8. Install passenger door and roof rail weather strip
  9. Adjust passenger window
  10. Install inner door panels
  11. My painter left me with my mirrors, spoiler, trunk filler panel, and rear bumper strips unpainted. I plan on painting them myself but that wont happen until fall when the humidity goes down.
I'll get there someday
RickM

RickM
 
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