Oldskool62
Veteran Member
- Sep 29, 2017
- 309
Looks fantastic. I am going through the motions of putting a new trunk lid on my car and after seeing these pictures I might just leave the rear spoiler off it.
My 81 - The Green Dream
- Thread starter RickM
- Start date
RickM
Veteran Member
This thread is helping to keep myself motivated. Really simple project today. Replaced the busted door jamb vents with new ones I ordered a few months ago. Old on the right, new on the left
Installed
I also got one headlight and bucket installed I wrote about this here -> https://nastyz28.com/threads/headlights.338532/.
Going to use the original headlight bezel but first I need to clean it up a bit. Other than that not a lot of progress. It takes a lot of time to put a car together.
Installed
I also got one headlight and bucket installed I wrote about this here -> https://nastyz28.com/threads/headlights.338532/.
Going to use the original headlight bezel but first I need to clean it up a bit. Other than that not a lot of progress. It takes a lot of time to put a car together.
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RickM
Veteran Member
Since it was nice here for a few days I thought I would install some new rocker panel moldings. I got these from NPD and the quality seems to be pretty good. I always liked the look of the moldings especially against my dark green car, makes the new moldings pop.
The moldings come with new retainers and hardware but not the original spring clips, they come with screws. I imagine if you do not have the weld studs or if they have broken off you could use the screws after drilling holes. In my case the weld studs were in good shape and miraculously I kept the spring clips from the original molding.
So first install the new retainer bar, I used the original spring clips
Assembly manual calls for a screw at the front fender. I could not find the original screw hole so I just drilled a new one and used one of the screws that came with the molding
Once the retainer is on it is simply a matter of laying the molding in the top part of the retainer and then starting at one end push down on the molding and it will snap into place on the bottom. Make sure you have it lined up with the screw holes on each end of the molding. I lined up the back end of mine and screwed it down but when I went to the front the screw hole did not line up so I had to drill a hole for the front screw. Man I hate drilling holes into my car.
Here is the molding installed, I still have to do the other side. I think it looks pretty good. Weather is going to get cold again tomorrow, I hate winter. I cant deal working when it is cold outside
RickM
The moldings come with new retainers and hardware but not the original spring clips, they come with screws. I imagine if you do not have the weld studs or if they have broken off you could use the screws after drilling holes. In my case the weld studs were in good shape and miraculously I kept the spring clips from the original molding.
So first install the new retainer bar, I used the original spring clips
Assembly manual calls for a screw at the front fender. I could not find the original screw hole so I just drilled a new one and used one of the screws that came with the molding
Once the retainer is on it is simply a matter of laying the molding in the top part of the retainer and then starting at one end push down on the molding and it will snap into place on the bottom. Make sure you have it lined up with the screw holes on each end of the molding. I lined up the back end of mine and screwed it down but when I went to the front the screw hole did not line up so I had to drill a hole for the front screw. Man I hate drilling holes into my car.
Here is the molding installed, I still have to do the other side. I think it looks pretty good. Weather is going to get cold again tomorrow, I hate winter. I cant deal working when it is cold outside
RickM
RickM
Veteran Member
Nice day today almost 70. I purchased new sill plates to replace my original beat up ones. Documentation that came with them suggested that you apply a coat of wax to both sides before installing them. Never thought of that but it does seem to be a good idea so I did it.
First the underside
After doing the top I screwed them down, they fit fine over the new carpet with mass backing
New sill plates look nice. Going to get cold again tomorrow but my next chore is to try and set toe on my front end since I have installed all new front end parts. I have watched a number of youtube videos showing how to do this using string and jack stands I image it will at least get me close. Looking for 1/16 inch of toe in on the front tires.
Rick
First the underside
After doing the top I screwed them down, they fit fine over the new carpet with mass backing
New sill plates look nice. Going to get cold again tomorrow but my next chore is to try and set toe on my front end since I have installed all new front end parts. I have watched a number of youtube videos showing how to do this using string and jack stands I image it will at least get me close. Looking for 1/16 inch of toe in on the front tires.
Rick
The repop sill plates sure look nice! 
Just be careful with them.
They aren't as sturdy as the originals and they will dent if you kneel on them.
Are you going to plug the rustproofing holes in the rockers?
Just be careful with them.
They aren't as sturdy as the originals and they will dent if you kneel on them.
Are you going to plug the rustproofing holes in the rockers?
RickM
Veteran Member
Definitely, before I do that, I am thinking of spraying some extra cavity wax in there before I seal it upThe repop sill plates sure look nice!
Just be careful with them.
They aren't as sturdy as the originals and they will dent if you kneel on them.
Are you going to plug the rustproofing holes in the rockers?
RickM
Veteran Member
Whats wrong with this picture?
Yeah, the weld nut is gone, these are the nuts for the wiper motor, nothing is easy on my car, what a pain to fix. I started by stripping off the paint around the area.
I actually saved the original nut, found in my mess of bagged and tagged parts. It was really rusty so I had to spend 30 minutes getting it shiny and clean enough for welding. I then hit it with 2 tacks on this side and a couple of tacks on the other side.
It seemed to be welded on there pretty good. I saw weld penetration on the other side of the firewall. After hitting it with a wire brush and lacquer thinner I hit it with a heavy coat of rust oleum. I think I am going to put some strip caulk around there or spray a bit of cavity wax in there when the paint dries since there is probably a spot of bare metal underneath the nut.
Man, the little things take forever to fix.
Yeah, the weld nut is gone, these are the nuts for the wiper motor, nothing is easy on my car, what a pain to fix. I started by stripping off the paint around the area.
I actually saved the original nut, found in my mess of bagged and tagged parts. It was really rusty so I had to spend 30 minutes getting it shiny and clean enough for welding. I then hit it with 2 tacks on this side and a couple of tacks on the other side.
It seemed to be welded on there pretty good. I saw weld penetration on the other side of the firewall. After hitting it with a wire brush and lacquer thinner I hit it with a heavy coat of rust oleum. I think I am going to put some strip caulk around there or spray a bit of cavity wax in there when the paint dries since there is probably a spot of bare metal underneath the nut.
Man, the little things take forever to fix.
You didn't really have to weld it in place.
You could have just held it with a wrench when you mounted the wiper motor to the firewall.
Oh well... It's a good fix!
You could have just held it with a wrench when you mounted the wiper motor to the firewall.
Oh well... It's a good fix!
RickM
Veteran Member
You didn't really have to weld it in place.
You could have just held it with a wrench when you mounted the wiper motor to the firewall.
Oh well... It's a good fix!
I thought about that too. You're right. I think I am just a glutten for punishment when working on my car. Knowing that it should have been welded on there would have bothered me if I didn't fix it like factory.
Real nice work here. You inspired me to get moving again. Like you, my defogger switch needs some love. Where did you find the decal from Burtons Antique? Also, do they carry the "LIGHTER" switch decal also? TY
