My project 9 years running.

[Peck]

I have been in a love hate relationship with my Camaro since I bought it at 18. I have swapped the engine 3 times already and gone through countless sets of wheels and tires Anyway enough of the never ending aspect of my car and on to its reincarnation this time.

This time around I have decided I want to go fast.
So I have built a 388” stroker 11:1 compression, Brodix IK200 heads, 1.6 roller rocker, Proform 750 carb, Wieand Stealth dual-plane (this may end up replaced with a single plain like a Team G), mellings high volume oil pump, 1.75 primary stainless headers, Lunati Voodoo 276/284 hyd. Flat tappet cam, summit aluminum radiator and dual electric fan kit. New turbo 350 and a boss hog 3200 rpm stall, 3.44 gears and a clutch style posi.

As reality sets in that my 45 year old unibody probably won’t like the abuse that is due to be delivered to it after my headers arrive the end of this week. I am looking for advise on subframe connectors weld in vs bolt on and the advantages to both.

However I am equally as open to hear stories as to the copious amounts of power you have seen put through a stock unibody without failure. As well as results of making them yourself.

Currently my car is a rootbeer brown wingless wonder.

That is also subject to change once the engine swap is finished. I am thinking a matte green.

 

[ZRODDER]

I used the Alston subframe connectors. You can get them from Jegs. Here is the info on them.

Alston GM Bolt On Subframe Connectors are carefully formed to fit the contour of your stock floor. These Bolt On Subframe Connectors require no cutting or welding to install, allowing you to retain stock exhaust, fuel and brake lines. Alston GM Bolt On Subframe Connectors are jig welded from 1-5/8" x .134 wall round tube with 1/8" steel mounting plates. In less then 4 hours you can preserve the consistency and performance of your Uni-Body chassis. Alston GM Bolt On Subframe Connectors come complete with grade 8 hardware and instuctions. Each subfamre connector is powder coated black to insure good looks and a long lasting finish.

As you see in the description, they are bolt in, but I still welded them in. They fit perfectly and plenty of room after installed. Here is a photo of mine.

 

[ZRODDER]

Also I like your car and plan for it. I like seeing someone take an old Camaro and put it back on the street.

I've had mine for 33 years, and my brother gave it to me then. He had popped the engine in Yuma AZ, and said if I want it, I can go get it. So I departed on a 24 hour drive to get it. Like you, I have had some SBs and BBs in it over the years. I have kept all the original parts so if my son wants to take it back to stock one day he can, but for now I am going all out this time.

Here is the link to my car on this site:
http://nastyz28.com/threads/ragged-out-77-z-28-restore-mission.273495/

 

[redone000]

How is the wingless wonder coming along? I'm sure it will fly even without the wings.

 

[Peck]

I have made quite a lot of progress without updating this. So here is a picture frenzy, I intend on cleaning this up after I finish cleaning the car up hahaha.

 

[Peck]

That awesome weiand billet water pump has been an absolute thorn in my side. When I went to install it I realized it didn’t clear my billet timing cover, my first thought was it must have been because it was too thick.

20 minutes later after running to the auto parts store to buy a cheapo chrome one. Pulley and balancer back off cover swapped out back together... guess what didn’t clear... sooo all of it came back apart billet timing cover back in. Stock steel water pump fits like a champ.

 

[Peck]

View attachment 57746

At this point I got to encounter a few more joys of hotrodding moments.

It went so smoothly together I knew something was about to go awry. I mean the torque converter seated and transmission bolted up like butter.

As we lift the combo up to do the heart transplant we realize we are starting to try and increase the garage door height and the transmission was still 8-10 inches below the nose of the car.

Several different rigging lift points later we managed to solve that problem and it was going nicely again.... maybe to nicely.

I could only get one mount to slip in place at a time. No amount of elbow grease or pry bars seemed to do the trick. I figured it must just be because I had rebuilt the factory clamshells with energy suspensions poly inserts. On a fluke I decided to measure them and it turned out my block side mounts were the tall pick-up style ones. By this time it is 9 p.m. and everywhere is closed.

The next day I call around to the local “auto parts” stores to be berated with “does it have air conditioning?” And other nonsense questions and no one having a set or being able to get them anytime soon.

Out to my local pull a part. Aptly named “Dick’s you pull” I will post a picture of the sign. Where I found an early late seventies ElCamino and pulled the motor just for the mounts. At this point it was hailing outside. When I had left my house it was a gorgeous spring day.

 

[Peck]

Remember those motor mounts that were giving us trouble? Well it turns out with the new shorter mounts my driver side low mount alternator set up no longer clears my Pitman arm.. How is that for luck.

 

[BillyDean7173]

When I saw the first pic of the engine hoist touching the top of the garage overhead, I thought oh hell. Glad to see it worked out. That motor is sweet. Hope you saved some money for tires. Lots of them, LOL.

 

[Peck]

You and me both! I spent a few minutes head scratching before we managed to get it over the rubber nose and under the garage door.