Need roof corner fabrication advice

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by lapedr, Jan 26, 2021.

  1. lapedr

    lapedr Veteran Member Gold Member

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    I am running into a hurdle trying to fabricate a patch on my 72 Camaro at the upper left corner window channel of the quarter panel and roof where the two meet because of the opposing angles, see pic below. I don't just need to patch the window channel at the pinchweld but also have to patch the edge of the roof also bc of my poor welding skills burning through the thin sheetmetal. Has anyone ran into this problem? I want to avoid using multiple pieces if possible, but if that's the only way then I will.
     

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  2. rotinrob

    rotinrob Veteran Member

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    Can you post an actual picture of the damage? Would make brainstorming a patch process easier. Looks to be in the leaded seam area so we might be able to take advantage of the amount of filler in that seam. I had to patch the "A" pillars on my car and didn't find that too bad even though they are not flat faced.
     

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  3. budro6968

    budro6968 Veteran Member

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    If you have a machine to weld like a simple flux core. Try using pieces cut to fit. Like the guy B4 asked show a pic. If you are not experienced with sheet metal. Try to get some old sheet metal to work on. Don't worry too much about burn through. A little practice and you will do well. The flux leave an ash residue. It will grind off. Take some time to try. Good luck.
     
  4. Dan Videoman

    Dan Videoman Member

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    What he said. Get some sheet metal the same gauge and practice doing the same welding. Practice u will get it. To start just do quick 1-2 second shots of weld, spot welds. Let it cool, then jump around to join everything up. Take ur time. Short little zaps.
     
  5. lapedr

    lapedr Veteran Member Gold Member

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    I seem to be having the most problems when I try to butt weld, what is a good gap to have between the original metal and the patch, or should they be flush or should the patch go under (inside) or over? How would you create and then weld in the patch, would you overlap the metal to the channel and roof, or make it the same exact size, this is also where I need advice
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2021
  6. rotinrob

    rotinrob Veteran Member

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    I would remove the overlap in the window channel area so I could plug weld (or spot weld if you have the equipment) and clean any rust underneath. I would also cut into the roof about in inch or so from the window channel and butt weld that area. Depending on what I am using to weld I use 0 gap for torch welding and about a 1/16" for wire welding, I don't have a TIG welder so I can't give advise there but would imagine closer to zero gap for that process. The factory seam area can be replicated as good as possible as it will be covered by filler anyway. Practice welding and might be a good excuse to buy a shrinker stretcher for the curve you will likely need in the channel.
     
  7. budro6968

    budro6968 Veteran Member

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    Look on you tube for this guy Fitzee's Fabrication. He shows a bunch of different ways he makes repairs.
     
  8. COPO

    COPO Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    This guy does good work around this window.
     
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  9. Allison Winn

    Allison Winn Red70Z

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    Copper backup helps too. Steel weld won't stick to copper and it helps control the heat. I have a big plug of brass that works too.
     
  10. Scott51

    Scott51 Veteran Member

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    Easiest way to make the patch without using too many pieces is to cut a 2” strip, fold it 90 degrees down the middle, then use a shrinker/stretcher to shape it. Stretch the top face to create the radiused corner of the window opening, then shrink the vertical face to create the curve of the roof line.

    Blowing holes with the welder is generally from gaps that are too big, too many amps and or metal that’s too thin.

    Making a patch that’s too small and not cutting out enough thinned / corroded metal is a pretty common mistake. Another is using a flap wheel or overly aggressive sanding disk to strip to clean metal before welding. That’s fine for 16G or thicker, but on old 18-20G panel steel it’s easy to thin it out to the point that it’s almost impossible to weld unless you’re good with a TIG.
     

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