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Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by czizza, Dec 25, 2014.
You could get some Fred Flinstone brakes Pat. They're on sale.lol
Started the rear end disassembly.
1) Remove the cover and rotate the rear and position the 5/16 lock pin down.
2) Use a 5/16 wrench and loosen the screw pin.
3) Remove the screw pin and now push lock pin back in towards the pinion.
4) Rotate the carrier around to expose the lock pin and pull it out.
5) Just so you know that is the C-Clip.
5) Push the axle in to expose the C-Clip.
6) Use a magnet to remove each C-Clip.
7) And there you go
Now you can pull the axles out. I then put Liquid Wrench on the brake lines and will let that soak in over night.
... Stay tuned.
Awesome pics and write-up so far. Thanks a ton. (Looking like a sticky so far)
Doesn't look like The Right Stuff stock the pv-04 prop. valve. I used one with a kit very similar to this one.http://www.getdiscbrakes.com/brakes/boosters-master-cylinders-valves/proportioning-valves-and-blocks
This fully adjustable prop they do have and should work as well.
Yes, I have seen them ... I am not sure which way I am going ... either new proportion valve or an adjuster like the one you show.
... Continued ...
After removing the drums and the axles ... you now need to undo all of the brakes:
Why because you need to disconnect the emergency brake:
Then unmounts the backing plate 4x9/16 and use a wire brush to clean up the end:
If you are not using the shields then use these ... I used the shields:
Here is how it lines up ... indent behind the flange ... staggered brakes, so drivers side faces front:
Ah starting to look like a brake setup (drivers side):
Passenger side (towards the rear staggered shocks):
Put the axles back in and put the c-clips back in and the pin:
My rotors needed a little clearance so I used my right angle grinder with a 1/2 stone ... and just reamed the opening ... 3 minutes:
Make sure the bleeder is at the top:
Here is how it fits:
Nice and centered ... I needed no shims:
Clean up your rear with good sand paper and make sure it is nice and flat:
Here is the final pictures for tonight:
Good post on removing the axles!
Picked up these last night plus the adapter for short shaft booster (not shown).
*** You only need this if you are changing from DRUM to DISC ... if you are just doing DISC to DISC replacement then use your existing Master Cylinder and Proportion Valve ***
This is a awesome post! (I'm a few weeks from doing the same thing) This step by step is very helpful! Show the short shaft booster adapt. if you will.