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Discussion in 'The BS Topic' started by ChevyReb, Mar 10, 2017.

  1. ChevyReb

    ChevyReb Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Don't be green with envy hornet! I've made a pledge to myself to not be a hoarder!

    How far apart are yall's two post lifts? I need to get on the ball so I can get them to dig out some 2x2 holes to put footers in for the lift. I wonder if I can buy an install kit ahead of time?

    Any recommendations on a good one for the money?
     
  2. Bandit723

    Bandit723 Veteran Member

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    I went 119" post to post. Wej-It has some good anchors. But I would first look up what your lift MFG recommends.
     
  3. Green hornet

    Green hornet Veteran Member

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    Lmao :D
     
  4. grzewnicki

    grzewnicki Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Gordon from Jacksonville Fl
    I would definitely be there while the concrete is being poured. I have seen too many finishers add water to make it easier to place the concrete. More water = more shrinkage = more cracking. Unless admixtures (super plastisizers-chemically make concrete slump higher) are used you really don't want them pouring much more than a 5 1/2 to 6 inch slump. They usually show up with a 4 inch slump, so 10-15 gallons on a ten yard load will get you a 5.5" (1 gallons raises slump 1 inch for 1 yard of concrete). The best thing to do is talk to the driver of the truck and tell him no more than a 5 1/2 -6 inch slump. Keep an eye on the water gauge on the concrete trucks water tank, I wouldn't want to see much more than 15-20 gallons of water added to a 10 yard mix. If possible keep the concrete moist for a week after pouring, this lengthens the curing process and can increase the strength of concrete by up to 50%. Basically get a 100 x 20 foot roll of plastic (poly) and once the finishers are done cover the slab. roll the plastic back each day, lightly mist the concrete and put the plastic back. You may want to touch base with the salesman of the ready mix concrete compnay you'll be using. Tell him what you are pouring and get his recommendation for which mix design to use (we had 2000 different mix designs at Florida Rock). I would increase the depth of concrete where you plan on installing the lifts, if possible I'd set some J bolts in while pouring. There is a link below to give you an idea how to do it, Look at the third pic where they have 4 bolts going through a pattern, that is going to be the strongest way top hold your lift up.

    Link: http://www.everything-about-concrete.com/concrete-anchor-bolts.html
     
  5. ChevyReb

    ChevyReb Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Thanks Gordon! I'll get Concrete info this morning and check on that today. I was hoping you would post up some info.
     
  6. grzewnicki

    grzewnicki Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    No problem bro, try to make a difference wherever I go :^).
     
  7. 71 rs BBC

    71 rs BBC Veteran Member

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    Like somebody said put a vapor barrier down (visqueen) so moisture doesn't wick through. I also had my guys burn it in with the power trowels to give it a marbled dense surface. (less likely to absorb moisture or wick) I also made my doorways thicker with rebar and a piece of angle iron across for the door to sit and seal on. When you do that also leave a lip going from your angle iron edge and the apron so water won't blow in under the door. I also used 4000 lbs crete with fiber. Put some control cut in it also because it's not if it settles it's when, so try to control the cracks. I don't know if you have freezing issues but if you do make sure you tell them so they can put air in it or it'll be prone to crack and crumble. I also made it thicker where the lift went with rebar. Just my two cents. Hope it helps.
     
  8. ChevyReb

    ChevyReb Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I'm thinking about trying to acid stain and then clear over it. Need to do some research on that and on the site Chuck posted up. Just been way busy and trying to keep my head above water!
     
  9. Cardinal

    Cardinal Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    1) Minimum of 16' height in an area LARGER than your largest vehicle = think two post lift!

    2) A MINIMUM of 18" overhang on all sides of the roof = keep weather off the sides of the building.

    3) Can't have enough floor drains.

    4) Insulated garage doors. Garage doors EXTRA wide (mine are 11' wide) and tall (mine are 9'6" and would be taller but my garage is only 10' inside! BIG mistake. Wish it was 16' for our lift!).

    5) I don't know where you live, but if you live in the snow belt (north) put serpentine heat in the concrete floor! My concrete contractor talked me out of it and I HATE him for doing it because concrete sucks the life out of you in the winter!

    6) Duplex electrical outlets every 4' and run #12 wire (20 amp). I don't recall what the NEC (national electrical code) is for the number of outlets on a circuit, but follow the NEC.

    7) MINIMUM of a 200 amp breaker box!

    8) 6" minimum thickness of reinforced concrete where you plan on putting your lift.
     
  10. ChevyReb

    ChevyReb Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Thanks Cardinal,

    What do you guys do that make you want floor drains so badly?


    Redesinged the living space bath area trying to best utilize space. What do you guys think about the changes from 1st drawing? Need to settle on a plan so plumbing can be roughed in ASAP.

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