no instrument lights

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by cordero51, Jul 16, 2020.

  1. Camaro Tim01

    Camaro Tim01 Veteran Member

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    yes, your gray wire you plugged in should connect to the cluster connector, do a continuity test and see if it does, should be a gray wire on the cluster connector 2nd from one of the ends, do the continuity test with both ends of wire unplugged

    That gray wire, according to diagram, goes straight to that cluster and to the lights, after the above test, plug in the part that goes to the fuseblock in a known good 12V source and see if you have 12V at the other end at the cluster connector, if you do and plugged in they still dont light then we need to check the grounds on the cluster for those lights or look at the dimmer control

    Also, what work has been done in or around or under the dash recently ?
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2020
  2. cordero51

    cordero51 Member

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    the only thing i had done recently is have the front end redone (control arms, bushings ect..) ill go do the test and report back in a few

    *update so I visually inspected and traced the wire to see if there were any kinks or damages that could be seen and I found none. upon me putting everything back together it somehow started giving power back to those two fuse terminals. so I put in a new 5 amp fuse for the gauge fuse and almost immediately the fuse blew with a burnt smell followed after. this would mean I have something overdrawing amps causing it to blow and therefore not giving power to that fuse. the next step would be for me to grab the voltmeter and check each fuse to see which one could possibly be drawing more amps correct? since then both fuse terminals have gone dead again
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2020
  3. Camaro Tim01

    Camaro Tim01 Veteran Member

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    No, the circuit that draws high and has the short will blow the fuse ( just like it did )

    you need to perform these tests and give back the results of the following :

    TEST 1
    disconnect gray wire from fuseblock
    REMOVE 5 amp INST LPS fuse
    with meter on 12V
    turn on headlights and ensure knob is turned CLOCKWISE
    ( counterclockwise simply turns on your dome light )
    black lead on a good ground
    place red lead on one terminal of the INST LPS fuse terminal
    note reading
    place red lead on the other terminal of the INST LPS terminal
    note reading
    ONE OF THESE SHOULD READ 12V, DOES IT ?
    YES or NO ?
    ( This tells you if the fuse terminal is getting 12v to supply your lights from the engine compartment, DO THIS TEST to ENSURE and cancel out the possibility the problem in going into the fuseblock NO MATTER WHAT YOU THINK OR SEE )

    IF AFTER THE ABOVE TEST No terminals read 12v GO NO FURTHER and post back here.

    IF ONE TERMINAL READS 12V PROCEED AS FOLLOWS:

    disconnect gray wire from fuseblock
    INSTALL 5 amp INST LPS fuse
    black lead on a good ground
    place red lead on LPS terminal where gray wire plugs in
    ( installing the fuse upon seeing 12v on one side of its terminals completes the circuit, the voltage now goes through the fuse and should power your LPS terminal .This tells you if the INST LPS fuse is supplying power to the LPS terminal in the fuseblock)

    Does the LPS terminal now show 12v ?
    if it blows fuse, go no further, post back here

    if LPS now shows 12 V proceed to next test :


    TEST 2
    DISCONECT the gray wire from fuse block
    turn OFF headlights
    install the 5 amp INST LPS fuse
    Does fuse Blow ?
    YES or NO ?

    TEST 3
    Turn on headlights, gray wire unplugged
    Does fuse Blow ?
    YES or NO ?

    TEST 4
    turn off headlights, plug in gray wire
    Does fuse Blow ?
    YES or NO ?

    TEST 5
    turn on headlights, gray wire connected
    Does fuse Blow ?
    YES or NO ?

    ONLY by performing these tests and answering them can I help you.
    I need the answers to the above before proceeding further, it will identify what is working and what isnt in your circuit for me and what further tests are required to zero in on the problem.

    Looking at a wire and saying it appears good means nothing, your copper inside that plastic gray covering could be all green after 40 years....

    I need you to perform the above tests
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2020
    dave@ztech likes this.
  4. cordero51

    cordero51 Member

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    ** Resolved

    it ended up being the instrument cluster circuit was fried. I ordered a new one and since then I was able to get the lights back
     

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