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Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by TTR230, Sep 9, 2020.
Humm, three quarts of Lucas HR oil and two quarts of VR1 black...........
I'm a big fan of the Motorkote products. I had a 454 running at 4,200 RPM's when the rusty oil pressure sending unit housing cut the rubber bellow inside. I pumped all the oil out of the engine at full throttle. When the light came on it was bone dry. I shut it down, figured out what happened and replaced the sending unit. I filled it back up with oil and fired it up (figured no loss at that point). I had 1 stuck hydraulic lifter. I brought it up to temperature, shut it down and left it sit overnight. I fired it up the next morning and the lifter had released. I ran that engine for 5 more years. It was still running good when I sold thing.
Sounds like the dumb races which a friend entered. He said they all drained their oil before beginning the race , and raced with no oil. He said that using Mobil one for that convinced him that it was good oil.
Nice Chart COPO, thanks for sharing this.
Just goes to show the importance and impact of the oil's viscosity, running temps with different clearances.
As the old saying goes, "too loose and only you will know, to tight and everyone will know", but it's getting "tighter" all the time.....and the you can go "thinner"
I note the chart used is 5 years old, and several of the oils are API rated at SM and SN which I believe restricts the allowable zinc additive package below what the chart lists. Sure have to agree with his statement: "Motor oils are among the worst products for false advertising."
Yes, exactly what Melling's instructions said to use on my new cam and lifters.
When you build 20-30-50K engines, and your rep is on the line, you use what works...labels and advertising means nothing.
I was surprised that no one posted the information at this link >> https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
This is a test on oil that was started in 2013 and last updated on September 13, 2020. I'm not sharing this to start or end the oil debate. You are all old enough to read the information and interpret it as you like. It's a long read, but detailed, over 300 pages. I started my career working as a valvetrain design engineer (degreed mechanical engineer) so I dig information like this but it's not for everyone since some folks have had success with the oil they have used for years even if the testing shows that there are much better alternatives. And you will also see that some additives actually make the wear properties of the oil alone WORSE. As a valvetrain engineer, I saw plenty of ruined roller lifter axles and needle bearings because of inferior lubrication. We were testing roller lifters but a secondary test was always the type of oil we were using whether we intended that or not. In closing I will offer three things. First, don't let the marketing of your favorite oil cloud the actual testing results. Second, I use Mobil 1 5w-30 or 10w-30, VR1 silver bottle 10w-30 and Amsoil HotRod 10w-30 in the daily drivers, hotrods, and small engine power equipment. Lastly, if you need a shop to work on your car for anything, check out these guys http://bluecollarmusclerods.com/
Very surprising results compared to the conventional anecdotal beliefs around engine oil in general, especially break-in and flat tappet applications.
I use Valvoline MaxLife High Mileage, API SN, dexos 1 approved, synthetic blend (red bottle) = 114,125 psi 6th on the list. I see no need to change at this point.