Old school SBC/BBC to LS family comparo.

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by newschool72, Sep 23, 2013.

  1. 73 L92

    73 L92 Veteran Member

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    I agree completely high mileage LS1 combos going for stupid money hence my previous comment, unless I can by a LS1 for the cost of the block and crank I'm passing. 241 heads worth $100 max? LS1 intake worth $100 max? Front and rear covers with new seals $100? Push rods need replacing. Rockers need a trunion upgrade.
    Fbody pan and accessories are worth more than the heads and intake.

    L92 or LS3 stuff? again if the price is right. Better heads compared to the
    LS1, LS2 or LS6 stuff. Run the numbers on new crate short block or complete long block and decide for your self.

    Don't get me wrong LS versus LT1 I go LS all day long. Unless emissions are a problem the LS engines are the way to go.
     
  2. david.carlton@s

    david.carlton@s Veteran Member

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    No one has mentioned the small LS. This seems like a great deal for the right person. Within a minute of leaving my house, I'm stuck behind another car, then at a red light. There's really no place near by to enjoy significant horsepower. The best I can do is make noise and contribute to global warming. Some days I think this would be just fine.

    http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/19244096/10002/-1?parentProductId=
     
  3. 496z28

    496z28 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Wow... All the bickering over LT1's.. My next statement is sure to piss off Tom then.. A local auto recycler sells LS1's and 5.3's for $400! Why, cause there are so damn many of them they are coring them out.. Lt1/lt4's isnt even considered around here. I personally threw two LT1's in the dumpster 2 weeks ago. Not a damn thing wrong with them, just couldnt sell them. I had no need for them.
    A 5.3 Lm7 complete with harness and computer with 71k miles for $400 on a pallet delivered to my door. Spent $150 for computer tune, $200 for wire harness to me modified, $170 for motor mounts.. Dropped in my 65 c10 with factory trans. Power, torque? Who cares, but for less than $1200 I have an LS powered 65c10.

    The LT1 would have cost me $400 for a wire harness, another $150 for a computer. Then pay for it to be tuned..


    Ive driven LT1's. Not a bad engine, but GM should of kept them to the roadmasters and caddy's and kept them out of corvettes and camaros.

    My brother ripped out the LT1 from his 95 z28 and replaced it with a LS1. That LT1 had 68k miles on it and its one of the ones I chunked in the dumpster.

    Upgrading to a LT1 is like upgrading to a 700r4, whats the point. Same price, sometimes cheaper to jump ahead another decade in technology..

    Oh, and im a hardcore big block guy!!
     
    Last edited: Oct 22, 2013
  4. newschool72

    newschool72 Veteran Member

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    Not many people saying much on the LS1 anymore as they haven't been produced for a while now. That and the small bore makes them less desirable from a performance stand point. The 5.3s are very popular now , because of the numbers of them. They are everywhere and CHEAP. They are good performance engines with good street car power potential.
    The 6.0s are all the rage now because the bigger bore lets the heads flow better and you can push the cid up with a stroker kit to over 400. They are more expensive because they aren't as available as the 5.3 and they offer more potential. So yea, LS1s cheap, 5.3s cheaper. 6.0s can be had reasonable , in iron. 6.0s in aluminum are high, as are 6.2s, because they are the "performance versions" from the factory ( LS2 and LS3 ). I when straight for the 6.2 LS3 because I had an opportunity to build an LS powered second gen and a once in a life time fund to build the car with. If the money hadent been there for the build ,I would have spent as much time as it took to find a "deal" on a used LS2 or 3. They can be had for 3-4 grand occasionally . You cant build an aluminum SBC with heads that flow 250 to 320cfms for anywhere nearly that cheap. The aluminum block would likely cost that much. Aluminum is the only way to go, IMO, for a pro touring style car ( that is what I built) because the 100lbs off the nose makes it worth the extra money, in the handling department.
    It all really comes down to what YOU want from your car. No need to fight or debate the issue. Different strokes for different folks !
     
  5. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    You threw out hundreds of pounds of aluminum? That wins as the most
    stupid post yet. Way to go Einstein.

    Your claim of $400 dollar LS1s is pure hogwash. "Around here" must be
    your imagination. An LT4 would demand $$ from its rarity, did you also
    throw out 2 of those the week before that?

    Tom
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2013
  6. 351maverick

    351maverick full time Ebay seller/hustler/car killer

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    that crate motor is a lot of $$$ for not a lot of power
     
  7. sbca96

    sbca96 Veteran Member

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    You guys are ripe, so not only an LSx, but it HAS to be aluminum block too, just
    because thats what you used? Gets more asinine in here each page. So those
    who went truck block are .. what .. idiots? Just not as much of an idiot who is
    searching dumpsters for LT1 long blocks? So a pro-touring car like the one that
    I built is lower still because of the iron block? Leonard's LS6 iron block, also not
    a wise choice in your book?

    Most the handling parts you will find are engineered for a STOCK 2nd Gen, not a
    car with hundreds of pounds taken off the front end .... one could argue that if it
    was lightened it up too much - you run the risk of throwing off the balance. The
    '78 I am building had an all cast iron 305 and a metal radiator. The LT1 is just a
    cast iron block, everything else is aluminum, just like your beloved LSx. The LS1
    bare block is 116 pounds, the LT1 bare block is 162 pounds, so that is a savings
    of 46 pounds. One would assume the truck LSx block is about the same as the
    LT1, though one source lists the LQ4 block being 88 pounds more coming in at a
    hefty 204 pounds . That puts the LQ4 heavier than an LT1. It makes sense, the
    LSx was designed as an aluminum block, which would require everything to be a
    little thicker than iron. The LS1 has all cylinder bores sleeved with cast-in-place
    liners - that adds weight. So, in reality, any modern engine will shave weight off
    the front end, but the amount is 46 to 88 pounds, with the LT1 falling between
    an all aluminum LSx and an LQ4.

    Nice try on the handling angle though, more hype deflated.

    Tom
     
  8. newschool72

    newschool72 Veteran Member

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    Wow Tom, did the wife cut you off again? It was a peaceful over here in LSX delusional world, till you went bipolar again.
    My comments were IMO .IMO, Tom ,is in my opinion. IN MY OPINION, the aluminum block is a better choice for a car built to go a round corners. Balance is important for turning. Its not rocket science, just physics, Tommy. Did you pay attention in class today?
    You know Tom, one of the great things about living in this country (Im not sure if California qualifies, LOL) is the choice to do things the way YOU want to do them. IMO (there is that abbreviation again), I think that if a person building a car to handle, he /she should do what they can to get close to a 50/50 balance. Knocking 88lbs off the nose with something you will have to have ( an engine ) is a no brainer way to help accomplish that goal. Does that make all the iron blocked LSX pro touring cars junk? He!! NO. We are going to go back to what I said earlier ( pay attention, Tom! Quit looking out the window at the pretty cars) " We all get a choice in how we build OUR car ! I chose to run a fiberglass hood and an aluminum block to cut 130lbs off the nose. Add the extra savings for the aluminum radiator and aluminum inner fenders (another 30lbs). That's like telling that guy to get off the front of your car before you drive off ! Take the battery (another 35lbs) and stick it in the trunk and now that guy that needs to get off the front of your car is a pretty big dude ! Not only are you taking the 35lbs off the nose, you are putting it in the back. That's a 70lbs swing!
    All that stuff makes my car handle like a dream, with the proper sway bars, springs and shocks. Ive pushed the car pretty hard and I cant make it get out of shape. I like it like that, Tom. I ,as in me. Does Leonard like his car? I don't know, but I would imagine he does, as well he should. Are you happy with your car Tom? I wonder about that one. I think that if you were happy with your car, you might be out driving it, instead of fighting a useless battle with the people that CHOSE to have an LS engine in their cars.
    Im going to ask you again, Tom. What are you fighting? Go work on your OptiSparkle and get over it.

    EDIT....Tom, my car weights 3255lbs w full interior, AC, PS, PB, nice stereo , big 13"brakes all around, sewer pipe sized sway bars, over drive trans. It even has paint!! What does yours weigh ? I did what I did for a reason. To make my car balanced and light because I want it to handle, accelerate and cruise better than a 72 Camaro is suppose to. I can drop it in OD with the converter locked and cruise up and down the rolling hills around here at 1700rpms at 55mph and the engine doesn't even act like its pulling a car. 0-60mph comes in just a tick over 3 seconds. 1/4 miles times are yet to be verified, but 11s are in the bag. 20+mpg have also been observed. I put this car together with a purpose, from a bare shell with all those things as a goal. The aluminum LS3 is a big part of why the car is capable of those things. An aluminum block wont turn your car into a corner carving monster, but an 88lbs drop in nose weight sure wont hurt.
     
    Last edited: Oct 23, 2013
  9. david.carlton@s

    david.carlton@s Veteran Member

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    While you guys argue the technical merits of modern technology, I'm still trying to figure out what would be the most fun. I had someone tell me I should just get a modern engine and then put a big speaker under the car with a big power amp and play a recording of a BBC.

    I still like the idea of opening the hood and seeing a period correct engine with all the original accessories and decals in place. I also like the idea of an AL block LS or a supercharged iron block LSX. All good in my book. But which do I want in my one car. I have no freakin' idea now. I've seen $100K+ builds with BBC engines. Why? Because it's fun?

    Ask me this second and I'm leaning towards the stroked LS3 AL block with a carb.
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2013
  10. newschool72

    newschool72 Veteran Member

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    Your lean sounds like a great choice. If you want a look close to what a stock BBC would be in your car, you might want to look at the Holley coil covers for the LS. Im using them on mine and the uninformed always ask if I like the 502 in my Camaro. Its not going to fool anyone that knows what they are looking at, but gives the BBC vibe to the casual looker. here is a cell pic of my setup.
    [​IMG]
     

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