OSE12P TPI Conversion

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by K1ng0011, Aug 16, 2018.

  1. K1ng0011

    K1ng0011 Veteran Member

    Likes Received:
    Mar 22, 2014
    United States
    I have a base model 1972 Camaro. As the LS engines have gotten more popular and as aftermarket fuel injection technology has progressed. I have noticed a trend that has started to happen. The TPI intakes from 3rd gen camaros, firebirds, and corvettes have gotten way cheaper at least in my area. I picked up a painted TPI intake with a ECU and butchered third gen camaro/firebird wiring harness for $200. Pretty good deal. I have seen a few of these intakes showing up on craigslist over the past few years for cheap. I am aware that you can go out and buy an aftermarket TBI setup like the sniper EFI or FiTech. However I personally like the look of a TPI intake myself. So I decided to take up the project of getting one working on an engine. Its not an ultra cheap build but I did try to keep the price down. So I wanted to reuse the wiring harness and the original ECU that I got if that was possible. The third gen camaros came with two primary ECUs one a MAF ECU and one a MAP ECU. The 165 ECU uses a MAF sensor and the 730 is a MAP sensor. MAF sensors are bulky and expensive and require several additional relays. MAF ECUs are the less desirable of the two ECUs. So your more likely to get one easier and for cheaper. The ECU I got along with my intake was a 165 ECU the less desirable one. After some research into the ECU I came across what is called OSE12P. In Australia they have an ECU they call the 808. This is identical to our 165 ECU in the US. The difference is that GM of Australia decided to a MAP sensor on the 808 ECU that we never saw here in the states. So OSE12P is the 808 code with a lot of improvements. Such as: spark/fuel tables to 9600rpm, boost capable, wideband datalogging, flexable outputs for relays, etc. Its modified version of the stock code with a bunch of unused or undesirable stuff taken out of the code. Using OSE12P I was able to use a MAP sensor on my 165 ECU which was originally a MAF ecu. The wiring harness that I got for free was pretty butchered a ball of wires when I got it. I fixed the harness using both wiring diagrams below. I made it so the harness only has a few external wires to hook up. 12v hot all the time, 12v ignition, check engine light wire (to dakota digital dash), speed sensor wire for ecu, two grounds, and fuel pump wire. I have a relay sends power to everything. This relay is hooked to the ignition. The factory harness requires more external connections than that. I wanted to have things simplified. I used an aftermarket tank and intank fuel pump. I am running -8 fuel lines (1/2 inch) but most people can run -6AN. Mine are overkill. The fuel system is a return style system. Meaning that fuel goes to the fuel rail and is returned back to the fuel tank. So you have two hoses. My fuel rail has been modified for AN fittings so the fuel lines come to the back of the fuel rail. The factory fittings come out near the front of the engine next to your water pump which I dont like. I have deleted the cold start injector and the EGR valve. The chip on your ECU where everything (.bin) is saved is too small for OSE12P. You need a need a bigger one the company Moates sells an adapter that plugs into your ecu and allows for chips that can save more data and you can put OSE12P on the new chip. The chips are erasable and re writable with a programmer which you can get from Moates. The adapter and two chips are only $55 so its not that expensive. I run mine without a knock sensor so a little research would be required if you want to run one. As for the O2 sensor all three ECUs mentioned in this 165, 730, and 808 all use narrowband o2 sensors. They are not as accurate as a wideband o2 sensor. The computer requires a narrowband sensor. So what I am using is a spartan 2 wideband sensor with controller from the company 14point7. Their wideband is heated and has a wire for narrowband data and wideband data. Both of these wires will be connected to the ECU. The computer does not use the data from the wideband to make adjustments to the fuel tables (BLM and INT) only the narrow band. The modified code in the ECU is able to receive the data from the wideband and pass it off to whatever device you are using for logging tuner pro or aldl droid. So you can playback the log and watch the wideband data and make adjustments. I enlarged the hole for the heater/ac wiring and ran my harness through there. I mounted the ECU itself with Velcro between the heater box and glove box in my car. Just enough room to get it up there. When it comes to tuning what works for me is I got a .bin that was similar to what I have manual trans with a stock 350. Then I force it to open loop with a setting in the .bin. Without the computer making adjustments you can see how close our tune is and adjust your VE table for lean/rich spots. Then once you got your VE table where you want it you turn off "forced open loop" and the ECU will make adjustments again. There are a lot of options in OSE12P. I suggest that you get comfortable with the search function of tuner pro this will help. There are a lot of options but you only use a handful for the most part. Also an issue that I want to mention is that the 12v ignition for the ECU needs to be on when the ignition is on and when cranking. Not a lot of wires are hot while cranking even on an aftermarket harness. There is a lot of information here but hopefully someone might find it useful at some point.

    Lots of Detailed Info About Third Gen TPI: http://www.chevythunder.com/
    OSE12P: https://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=356
    OSE12P Wiring Diagram: https://pcmhacking.net/forums/download/file.php?id=5105
    GM TPI Wiring Diagrams: http://chevythunder.com/fuel injection ecm pinouts.htm
    Basic Tuning of OSE12P: https://pcmhacking.net/forums/download/file.php?id=5966
    Advance Tuning of OSE12P: https://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=3051
    Injector Calculator: https://pcmhacking.net/forums/download/file.php?id=3289&sid=565a0233d5708b5c5d37cde2176fdf79

    165 ECU: Third Gen Camaro ECU. From factory this ECU uses a MAF sensor. Same in cars from 1986-89
    730 ECU: Factory MAP ECU. From the factory this uses a MAP sensor. 1990-92 cars
    808 ECU: ECU in Australian cars identical to 165 ECU from the united states. However the code on the ECU was different and used a MAP sensor.
    BLM: This is the same as long term fuel trim
    INT: Same as short term fuel trim.
    ECU Code Mask: $8D, $6E, OSE12P, there are many different code masks. This is a just an identification to say what ECU you are working with. For example $6E is factory code for a 165 ECU. If someone is talking about $6E it means they are talking about tuning or something related to the 165 ECU.
    Memcal: The ECU has an access door and you can open it to reveal the memcal. The memcal has the limp home mode for the ECU and it has the chip where the .bin file is stored.
    .bin: This is the file that all of your fuel tables, spark tables, and settings for the ECU are stored. This file is written to a chip on the memcal.
    .xdf: You put this file in tuner pro. All the XDF does is tells tuner pro how to read your bin file. All ECUs are programmed differently and need different XDF to read the .bin file properly and make changes. OSE12P comes with its own specific one.
    .adx: This file is loaded into to tunerpro/aldl droid. All this does is allow you to properly log data from the ecu. OSE12P also comes with this.
    Tuner Pro: Free windows program that allows you to tune OSE12P. You can edit fuel,spark tables, etc. You can collect and playback logs from it. You edit your .bin in it. You load your .adx/.xdf in it.
    Flash and burn: Windows program to allow you to erase aftermarket chips and put a new .bin on your chip. So if you change your fuel table you need to erase the chip and write your new .bin file on the chip.
    ALDL Droid: This is an android app $20 that you can buy. It works a lot like the torque app for ODB2. Basically you plug a bluetooth adapter into your diagnostic connector and it sends data to your android device. Sensor data, check engine codes, ect. You can take logs and email them to yourself. Much easier than dragging a computer around with you.
    ALDL Connector: This is the ODB1 diagnostic connector that you can use to pull data from the ECU and check codes.
    Programmer: This is a physical device that you plug into your computer. This allows you to erase and reprogram aftermarket chips where your .bin file is saved. This is used in conjunction with Flash and Burn.
    Closed Loop: The engine has warmed up it will start to make changes to BLM and INT. This is the long term and short term fuel tables. For example if you have a vacuum leak or change elevation.
    Open Loop: The engine is cold and it just uses the fuel tables already stored in it with no adjustments. It does not use the o2 sensor at all to make adjustments until the engine warms up.
    VE Table: This is your primary fuel table
    Calc VE: The adx file uses the wideband data to calculate what it thinks the VE table should be. You can use these figures to edit the VE table in your .bin
    MAF Sensor: Measures the amount of air entering the engine. Makes fuel calculations based on this.
    MAP Sensor: This sensor measures the vacuum the engine is producing and uses that with rpm, and other sensors to make calculations.

    $TPI Intake, Wiring Harness, ECU: $200 (For me)

    $14 O2 Sensor Bung - https://www.speedwaymotors.com/18mm-O2-Sensor-Bung-and-Plug,6748.html

    $67 Gas Pedal Wire - http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/TC-1000TPU60/10002/-1

    $50 Intake Tubing and Filter - https://www.ebay.com/itm/BCP-BLACK-...ash=item2129885b83:g:brUAAOSwrfVZVcUo&vxp=mtr

    $5 CTS - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4588416&cc=1035717&jsn=449&jsn=449

    $30 IAC - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=950992&cc=1035717&jsn=501

    $21 TPS - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4588725&cc=1035717&jsn=508

    $23 MAP - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4589430&cc=1035717&jsn=516

    $9 IAT - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4588830&cc=1035560&jsn=520

    $165 - 22lb Fuel Injectors - https://www.southbayfuelinjectors.com/fuel-injectors/tpi/5-7-tpi-gm-22lb-hr-fuel-injectors-bosch-d3

    $18 - Fuel Filter - https://www.carid.com/sniper/black-...l-filter-mpn-61206063.html?singleid=776727025

    $30 - Cold Start Block Off - http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/85-88-camaro-firebird-tpi-305-350-cold-start-injector-delete-kit/

    $8 - Intake Gasket Set - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=863567&cc=1035593&jsn=515

    $60 - Fuel Pressure Regulator - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1262649&cc=1035717&jsn=459

    $30 - TPI Bolt Set - http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/87-92-camaro-firebird-tpi-305-350-intake-runner-bolt-kit/

    $85 X2 - 20 ft Fuel Hose https://www.holley.com/products/plu...er_push-on/sniper_push_on-hose/parts/92000088

    $78 - Distributor - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=6283947&cc=1035593&jsn=511

    $510 - Holley Fuel Tank Pump, Sender - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sne-19-108

    $80 ALDL to Bluetooth - http://www.reddevilriver.com/ALDL_Bluetooth.html

    $20 Android APP for ALDL Reading - https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sgiroux.aldldroid&hl=en

    $125 Wideband O2 Sensor & Controller - https://www.14point7.com/products/spartan-lambda-controller-2

    $20 Cold Start -8 An Fitting - http://www.hawksmotorsports.com/tpi-sbc-cold-start-9th-injector-8-an-adapter-fitting-cnc/

    $10 90 Degree Sniper Hose fitting -8AN - http://www.jegs.com/i/Sniper-Motorsports/589/12401083/10002/-1

    $4 Straight Sniper Hose Fitting -8AN X5 - http://www.jegs.com/i/Sniper-Motorsports/589/12001083/10002/-1

    $9 3/8NPT to -8AN 90 Degree Fitting - http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/110147/10002/-1

    $5 1/4NPT to -8AN Straight X2 - https://www.jegs.com/i/Earls/361/981607/10002/-1

    $85 Burn 2 Programmer - http://www.moates.net/burn2-chip-programmer-p-197.html

    $55 Memcal Adapter and 2 512k Sized Chips - http://www.moates.net/gp1-package-gm-adapter-with-2-chips-p-41.html?cPath=64


    Last edited: Aug 25, 2018
  2. Itsadryheat79

    Itsadryheat79 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Aug 4, 2009
    Chandler, Arizona
    NICE POST and Very interesting read...
    Have you tried TunerPro or the TunerPro RT or do you just use the Android App?
    Looking forward to seeing more of these kinds of LSTPI mods.
  3. K1ng0011

    K1ng0011 Veteran Member

    Likes Received:
    Mar 22, 2014
    United States
    I use tuner pro for editing my .bin which contains the fuel/spark tables and all other settings. The android app ALDL Droid I use for collecting logs. I think most people now days have their phone in their pocket already. So I take the logs with ALDL droid instead of tuner pro. I take the log file and I email it to myself. When I get back to my desktop computer I just download the log and open it with tuner pro. This way I never have to take a computer with me. As long as I have my phone I can look at readouts from sensors and you could use it like a digital gauge cluster.
  4. John Wright

    John Wright Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Aug 9, 2002
    Rustburg, Va
    I'm running a TPI with 80# injectors with a 7875 turbo on MAP(speed density)...due to old computer and having to purchase a bunch of stuff to program that old 165 ecu...I just went with megasquirt and pitched the old computer on the shelf.
  5. ULTM8Z

    ULTM8Z Veteran Member

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    May 19, 2000
    Los Angeles
    OSE12P sounds similar to Super_AUJP ECU code that the thirdgen.org guys developed. Modified VE tables, open loop various options, WB datalogging, etc. Along with it, they developed associated S_AUJP definition files for Tunerpro.

    It only works with 7730 ECM and $8D mask (90-92 Camaro TPI, MAP sensor based).

    With my Miniram intake (NOTORIOUSLY difficult to tune for with batch fire system), the S_AUJP code offered up some features to whip that intake into line. Without it, I probably would have replaced the manifold with something else.

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