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Discussion in 'Project Progress' started by pajeff02, Aug 29, 2015.
Nice find looks real good
Thank you. We are really enjoying the car and hope to get in some good seat time before the snow flies up here.
Tonight, despite my garage being an oven, I decided to tackle a few issue with the fuel system. As I related in my intro, the fuel gauge reads way high and testing the sending wire yielded well over 200 ohms of resistance with the tank almost full. Even after cleaning and reinstalling the ground wire the resistance remained unchanged. I wanted to also change out all the rubber lines in the fuel system and since I felt that we were down to around a quarter tank now was the perfect time. I started by slicing the line at the tank connection, disconnected the ground wire and with my transmission jack in place I dropped the straps and lowered the tank. After lowering it several inches, I disconnected the sender wire from the top of the tank.
I inspected the ground wire and the connection appeared to be good to the sender. Testing the sender connection again yielded too much resistance so I now knew for certain that the issue was inside the tank. Using a brass drift, I carefully tapped the prongs on the retaining ring to remove it and pulled the sender from the tank.
With the sender on my workbench, I started testing the resistance between the connections to ascertain where the actual problem was located. I again found too much resistance between the two points on the strap which connects the sender unit to the mounting plate. I wire brushed the connections to ensure good contact with the probes on my DVOM and still had an issue. Upon bending the strap, the resistance suddenly dropped to what I would consider almost normal. It appears that the connection between the strap and the actual sender was the issue. I worked on the contact point a bit trying to press it on tighter and re-tested several times to ensure that the connection remained good.
This is the best pic of the strap that I am referring to. I initially suspected the connection on the top plate (which is what I am pointing at) as it appeared to be corroded but this actually tested fine.
I reinstalled the tank and then replaced the rubber fuel lines at the tank, back of the subframe and at the fuel pump. The engine started right up and our fuel gauge now read just below a quarter tank -- perfect. I will be pulling the sender again and will most likely replace it as I believe the problem will crop back up sooner rather than later. Also, I found that the sock on the pickup was split open even though it was still pliable and otherwise appeared to be in good shape.
Nice find. Great info and pics.
The prior owner had installed an aftermarket Auto Meter tachometer on the steering column which I removed. Being an automatic, Dawn didn't care for the tach and it blocked a significant portion of the speedometer and the left turn signal indicator. With the tach gone, I noticed last night on our test drive that the left side of the speedometer looked dim. This morning I found a blown bulb on that side (so nice being able to actually get to stuff up under the dash!).
I believe the instrument panel lights are supposed to be #168 bulbs, but what I pulled out was a #194. If I recall, the 168 is brighter... can anyone confirm this?
Can't believe I just found this thread! Nice looking car, looking forward to seeing more pics as you work on her.
The 168 is a higher power lamp, shorter life. Usually see them for the signals and indicators that aren't on all the time. 194 is usually for the general backlighting, but do give up some brightness.
Ok - thanks for the clarification.
Going to address a few minor issues, or at least attempt to. The dome light lamp is setting in the glove box. Apparently, the light stays lit all the time. The parking brake foot pedal is rubber banded to keep it in the released position. And the accessory gauge lights are wired on all the time with the ignition.
Also, going to work up a shopping list for Fall Carlisle which runs from September 30th to October 4th. For around 18 years, I went every year from Thursday through Saturday which is about what it take to see it all in detail. We'll probably just go Friday this year as I am only going to shop for the Camaro.
Had success on all three projects today. I started with the dome light issue and began by installing the bulb and confirming that the light stayed on with the doors closed. I then checked the dimmer switch to ensure that it was not activating the dome light. I knew from the schematics that the door switches create a path to ground when the doors are opened and that is what activates the light.
I shut the passenger door and then pressed the driver door switch with my finger which caused the light to go out. With a deep well 7/16" socket on an extension and my 1/4" drive ratchet I backed the driver door switch out a ways and confirmed that it has at least a quarter inch or more of thread. I then snugged the switch and backed it out around 2 turns. Closing the door the dome light immediately went out. I backed it out another half turn or so and to be safe also backed the passenger side switch out just a touch. I then checked each door several times to ensure that the light stayed out with the doors shut. The real test was driving on our bumpy back roads this afternoon and making sure the dome light never even flickered. I think all is good for now, but I did add a dome light lens and housing to the shopping list.
Next up were the lights on the aftermarket gauges. The lights on these were wired into the "ACC" slot on the fuse panel and are on all the time. Looking under the dash, it appeared that the easiest tap into the dash lights would be the light for the heater control panel. I confirmed that the gray wire was hot but found that the bulb was burned out. I had not noticed this before as the steering wheel completely blocks the panel which is located on the left side of the column. Fortunately, I had one #1445 bulb left in my stash to replace it. I spliced into the gray wire and confirmed that the lights on the gauges now come on with the light switch and are controlled by the dimmer.
Finally, the rubber bands on the parking brake had to go. Being an automatic, we just do not use the parking brake so the easiest fix appeared to be placing a small spring on the back of the brake lever which pulled that side down and the pedal up. I was able to find a spring that placed enough tension on the pedal to hold it up and that attached to the ear on the cable retainer clip, so no drilling or fabrication was required. I will complete a more proper repair sometime later.