Pete's "71" Restomod Update 01

giggity

Veteran Member
Mar 18, 2013
1,682
Pearland, texas
Dakota Digital Control Box!

I chose right in middle with DD, I cut a piece of metal sheet, and mounted that to column bracket, and then mounted DD stuff to it. my thinking was that it only takes 4 screws to take off bezel, and I dont have to wedge my ass under the dash in case something needs to be looked at.

20210606_140648.jpg
 

peteegger

Veteran Member
Jul 27, 2006
265
North Las Vegas, NV.
I chose right in middle with DD, I cut a piece of metal sheet, and mounted that to column bracket, and then mounted DD stuff to it. my thinking was that it only takes 4 screws to take off bezel, and I dont have to wedge my ass under the dash in case something needs to be looked at.

View attachment 129640

I can still get to mine by talking the bezel off and the instrument cluster out too! Where's it's at now may give me another option as it is just off to the left side of the steering column? Will be finding out for sure here pretty soon? The A/C ducting will still be in front of it though.
 

hubedobeedo

3rd times a charm
Jul 18, 2013
846
Huntertown,IN
Well, the fenders are on... sort of!


you are correct that bracket is bent if you could find oem used it will be better than aftermarket(i did find set for mine the two brackets as far i can remember were not welded together , i like the sping. are your liners oem or aftermarket. when i was doing mine i was lucky enough to only need dr. fender, hood and upper valance plus aftermarket core . i still have original core i thought i would save time by buying new (not). my driver fender did not fit for crap ended up stripping factory braces of original and stripping braces off of new (basicaly reskin of part) o as a side note there is rust between rear brace and skin on fender i do not care were they are from .the openings on aftermarket for hood bump stops were not even close to right height. as far as gaps 1/4 max in at doors with 1/4 max inch at 1/4 panels(sounds big ) that being said the fender would have to have to sit out(where door and fender meet) just proud down sight line to avoid hitting door during opening .what the door will interfere with is that fold feature on fender (you noticed) aftermarket is usually sketchy. i would definitely install hood.(sure you will) these pics are not the greatest ,i have the doors back farther to be able to have all panels flush ,that is not the way factory did and part of the reason because of the fold feature at back edge of fender .the driver side on mine was a quite a bit of moding, the pass. side was great(something to be said about oem(nos$$$) there is also a filler panel that goes between the upper valance and those brackets for bumpers(more stack) tried to show in one pic(its the filler to hide view of bumper brackets) i need to get my inline electric fuel primed to fire up. great build thread! keep it up
 

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peteegger

Veteran Member
Jul 27, 2006
265
North Las Vegas, NV.
you are correct that bracket is bent if you could find oem used it will be better than aftermarket(i did find set for mine the two brackets as far i can remember were not welded together , i like the sping. are your liners oem or aftermarket. when i was doing mine i was lucky enough to only need dr. fender, hood and upper valance plus aftermarket core . i still have original core i thought i would save time by buying new (not). my driver fender did not fit for crap ended up stripping factory braces of original and stripping braces off of new (basicaly reskin of part) o as a side note there is rust between rear brace and skin on fender i do not care were they are from .the openings on aftermarket for hood bump stops were not even close to right height. as far as gaps 1/4 max in at doors with 1/4 max inch at 1/4 panels(sounds big ) that being said the fender would have to have to sit out(where door and fender meet) just proud down sight line to avoid hitting door during opening .what the door will interfere with is that fold feature on fender (you noticed) aftermarket is usually sketchy. i would definitely install hood.(sure you will) these pics are not the greatest ,i have the doors back farther to be able to have all panels flush ,that is not the way factory did and part of the reason because of the fold feature at back edge of fender .the driver side on mine was a quite a bit of moding, the pass. side was great(something to be said about oem(nos$$$) there is also a filler panel that goes between the upper valance and those brackets for bumpers(more stack) tried to show in one pic(its the filler to hide view of bumper brackets) i need to get my inline electric fuel primed to fire up. great build thread! keep it up

Thanks for the great reply! Haven't got around to checking the hood bump stops yet but that's something to check for sure before paint. The body work is going to be farmed out and I'm sure they are going to have big fun getting the gaps right! The outer fenders and lower valence are the only things that are reproductions. The hood, inner fenders and header are OEM. I bought new bumper brackets and they actually fit and mount the bumper in the correct location. Found out and you are correct the vertical supports for the bumper brackets are not supposed to be welded. Whoever welded them did a great job as they looked factory other than being bent. Like the color you picked! Haven't decided what color on mine yet.
 

peteegger

Veteran Member
Jul 27, 2006
265
North Las Vegas, NV.
More wiring issues with American Autowire kit! Headlight harness length. What year or model did they use for the 9 pin switch connector that's on my harness and why don't they sell the "Rocking Horse" terminals separately that they used for the connector and dash plug-in?

 

giggity

Veteran Member
Mar 18, 2013
1,682
Pearland, texas
Well, the fenders are on... sort of!


I bought AMD fenders, and have the same fitment issues. BTW, if you're taking to a body guy to align, they will need to remove those inner fenders most likely to fix your fender gaps. Reason I say, is Im looking to take my 70 to a body guy to fix the gap issues, Ive spent way too much time on this piece of my build, i figure Ill let a professional deal with it because the fenders dont fit right. They are going to need massaging.
 

hubedobeedo

3rd times a charm
Jul 18, 2013
846
Huntertown,IN
More wiring issues with American Autowire kit! Headlight harness length. What year or model did they use for the 9 pin switch connector that's on my harness and why don't they sell the "Rocking Horse" terminals separately that they used for the connector and dash plug-in?


great video , i will tell you that is the same kit i used(i think i told you that before) any ways totally agree with you on the headlight harness length ,i ended up frustrated and basically rerouted (snaked) back around column(created more work for clearance). i think what you are going to do (shorten) is better i thought about doing but decided i could go back later , mostly trying to get a certain point before weather turned. as far as the ground for headlight you discussed the piece with the wire and eyelet that was on original headlight is the ground for wiper and headlight. the eyelet will get screwed to dash brace by column, should be hole is used for other ground also. i have everything wired ,all is working good i used all autometer gauges in cluster including electronic speedo with gps added rear defrost. i did remote battery to trunk with slide tray. o ye the first two pics are when i was disassembling, the screw about in middle of one pic shows the screw loosened up that is were the ground goes. it gets screwed in when installing cluster. i did use the new switch(headlight) i reused the the original plunger not fan of the billet one that came with kit.
 

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