Pin-on hood hinge retrofit

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by woody80z28, May 7, 2009.

  1. woody80z28

    woody80z28 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I've got a crazy idea to hinge my lift-off pin-on hood with a prop rod instead of using the factory sprung hinges. Has anyone tried this?

    My Beretta has the same setup as what I'm planning for the Camaro if it's feasible, and I have an extra pair of hinges that I can use. This is a crappy picture, but it shows the hinge/bracket I'm talking about. All it does is screw into a nut on the fender and pivot the hood.

    [​IMG]

    Here is the hood in question:
    [​IMG]

    While it is flimsy, I dont really expect this to be a problem. I was also thinking instead of bolting the hinge pivots to the fender I could pin them. That way it is still only 4 pins to remove the hood completely if needed.

    The main thing I would gain is being able to lift the hood without putting it on the roof and scratching up paint.
     
  2. victor3ranger

    victor3ranger Veteran Member

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    I have thought about the same thing. Only I thought about retaining the factory hinge without the spring and use a set of those little piston cylinders they use now on the newer car to push the hood up and hold it open.
    Just haven't figured out how to do it yet.
    I hate my hood smacking me on the head because of the weak springs and I really hate putting the hood on top of the car.
     
  3. woody80z28

    woody80z28 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I would think the cylinders would be too rugged for my hood... because it is the race weight one (maybe 15lbs if that).

    The biggest problem I can think of is trying to secure the steel hinge/bracket to the fiberglass hood. I assume there is some type of epoxy or something that would work, but I dont know.
     
  4. driftwood

    driftwood Veteran Member

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    I am planning a similar concept but with a "skinned" stock flat hood and "stock car" type hinges and pivot points.

    Look at how the ASA and NASCAR hoods are mounted, with a pivot at the rear most corner and self locking lightweight hinges.

    You could use some of the 3M bonding adhesive to hold the hood to the hinge, there really isn't much force applied there especially if you use the prop rod instead of self locking hinges.

    I already got my hinges and will post a pic later along with the pivot hinge I am talking about if I can find one. The pair of hinges is less than 2 pounds, a slight savings over stock.

    Joe
     
  5. 3SLO5

    3SLO5 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    i dont think its gonna work, the beretta hood stops like 6 inches past the hinge area and the camaro hood ends like 12 inches past the hinge area ,the factory hinges lift up and away as the hood is opened. if you simpily put a hinge towrd the back of the hood the long pointy corners have no where to go but into the fender or windshield. putting the hinge at the very end of the hood where it might work i dont think will because theres absolutly no reinforcement at the corners. if your gonna go through all this work you might as well have the hood open reverse and go custom.
     
  6. driftwood

    driftwood Veteran Member

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    It will work fine.

    You put the pivot point/hinge at the rear of the hood. This way you can also open the hood say 90 degrees so it is easier to work on the engine. Can even pull engine without removing hood.

    The "long pointy corners" become the pivot point. I'm trying to find a pic of a nascar or IROC(sanctioned) camaro with them.

    Joe
     
  7. driftwood

    driftwood Veteran Member

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    Okay, these aren't the best pics, but it's all I got right now.
    Hopefully the explain what I am talking about. The two of the diecast show the pivot and how that can mount, then of course the pic of the actual hinges is self explanatory.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  8. gregh

    gregh Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    On both my camaro's, I use the stock hinges with the springs removed & a prop rod. On my car I found a prop rod from an Aerostar van & added a foot or so to the middle of it so it's the right length. On car "B"(my GF's car), I bent a piece of 5/16" round bar & welded a nut to a washer as the pivot. On both cars I pop-riveted a washer(as a reinforcement) to the underside of the hood to accept the end of the rod.

    This is car "B", I'll try to dig up a pic of my car tomorrow.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. woody80z28

    woody80z28 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    That's a HD fiberglass hood though isnt it Greg? Mine is maybe 15lbs. Driftwood gets the idea on what I want to do. Looks like maybe some 3M bonding adhesive could be the ticket, along with a pin for the hinge.
     
  10. driftwood

    driftwood Veteran Member

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    EDIT: Found exact weight of skinned stock hood= 29 pounds.

    I actually already removed the underside of my stock hood to check weight savings. I have the exact weight around here, but the hood is around 29 after removing the underside panel. Puts it right along side my 32# bolt on 4" glass hood that uses stock latch.

    Using the skinned hood and LW hinges with dzus or stockcar type pins at front saves about another 15# or so by ditching stock hinges(with no springs) and hood latch/release. Plus I'll be back to all steel.

    Joe
     
    Last edited: May 11, 2009

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