Power limit on a 350

Rustbucket350

Veteran Member
Sep 4, 2013
1,420
Oviedo, Florida
Isn't that why OE BBC (and late sbc Gen 1e Vortec L31) have a bypass Hose ?
which connects top of water pump to front of intake manifold water Xover.
Yes. That is exactly why they have a bypass hose. Like I said. I was unaware big blocks did not have this (internally within the block as small blocks do). There is no internal water bypass within the block itself.

I am not a big block guy.

However, on a 366, or a 427, the stock intake has something like a 3" hole that you would have to neck down to a much smaller one. Also, since it comes out of the front of the intake, there is very limited room. I put a rubber expansion plug in the front of the intake and blocked the rest. It is true that you will get hot spots in the engine running it without coolant circulating.
 
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Rustbucket350

Veteran Member
Sep 4, 2013
1,420
Oviedo, Florida
It wasn’t the internals I was afraid of, it was the block puking everything out, me driving through the oil, and putting it in the wall 🤷‍♂️
Well I have to ask, why would you drive into the wall if the internals didn't scare you?

Especially. Why. Would it blow up. I have yet to hear a solid, firm answer. Yes the stock 350 grenades around 750 hp. Ehhh does it? Has anyone personally seen this? If so, I'll believe it.

The other thing, like I said. It's a build from my junked, ok, we'll say, shelved parts.

I did do one from junk that repeatedly survived 7500. This 366 is looking like good candidate for big power and cheap and yet low rpm.
 
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procharged81

Veteran Member
Nov 16, 2011
152
NE PA
Well I have to ask, why would you drive into the wall if the internals didn't scare you?
Well, when the block splits from the webbing giving out, the oil makes one hell of a mess. Witness it once and you’ll know what I’m talking about. Not pretty….and the block I saw, the rods and crank were still intact….
 

Rustbucket350

Veteran Member
Sep 4, 2013
1,420
Oviedo, Florida
Well, when the block splits from the webbing giving out, the oil makes one hell of a mess. Witness it once and you’ll know what I’m talking about. Not pretty….and the block I saw, the rods and crank were still intact….
Here's the thing. I don't care. I mean I do care about safety and everything at the track but no I don't care about my engine. It will make what it makes
 

procharged81

Veteran Member
Nov 16, 2011
152
NE PA
Here's the thing. I don't care. I mean I do care about safety and everything at the track but no I don't care about my engine. It will make what it makes
I don’t care what you do with your engine either or what happens. I was just replying to your first post. You were asking when it gives up? At what RPM? At what horsepower?

Have at it. Throw 3 kits of spray on it as well as 30lbs of boost. Doesn’t matter to me. Then you’ll know first hand what it will take.
 

Rustbucket350

Veteran Member
Sep 4, 2013
1,420
Oviedo, Florida
I don’t care what you do with your engine either or what happens. I was just replying to your first post. You were asking when it gives up? At what RPM? At what horsepower?

Have at it. Throw 3 kits of spray on it as well as 30lbs of boost. Doesn’t matter to me. Then you’ll know first hand what it will take.
So when does it give up? I'm not planning on running 3 kits of spray. One is fine. I want to know when does the factory block give up. As in. Can a guy take a regular l79 350 with dished pistons, pump 10 psi of boost into it and then make an extra 50 with a nitrous shot? These are my goals.

Well. I may make a 9 grand motor. Who knows. It's possible.
 
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biker

Veteran Member
Dec 7, 2014
5,810
Canada
At the risk of getting hit with a punch here, a 7500 rpm factory engine is an outlier, or at best might have 2 or 3 pulls like that under load. That is IF the cam and springs will get it there.
As for oil puking, the finger down that particular throat is way more likely to be a rod than the block. As a rod bolt lets go, the rod is what will make the escape hatch through the pan or block, barfing the oil with it.
 

sandlapper

Veteran Member
Oct 9, 2020
1,860
SE CSA
agree, rod/bolt before block.

I don't think those OE redlines on our OE tachs are applied arbitrarily.

rpm limit? all of us here are guessing. To arrive at anything approaching reality, one would have to either test (to the point of destruction) many identical motors under identical conditions and perform statistical analyses upon those results --- OR --- employ a team of bona fide engineers to perform a battery of computerized simulations / tests using many analytical techniques to include FEA --- OR --- all the above. --- none of $that's$ in the cards.
 

Rustbucket350

Veteran Member
Sep 4, 2013
1,420
Oviedo, Florida
At the risk of getting hit with a punch here, a 7500 rpm factory engine is an outlier, or at best might have 2 or 3 pulls like that under load. That is IF the cam and springs will get it there.
As for oil puking, the finger down that particular throat is way more likely to be a rod than the block. As a rod bolt lets go, the rod is what will make the escape hatch through the pan or block, barfing the oil with it.
See, I, personally have done exactly that in the past and while it did not make more power at 7500 it absolutely could have. This was with factory internals and directly after break in. It did not have 2 or 3 pulls in it before it quit. It never quit and it got sold.
 

G72Zed

Veteran Member
Sep 8, 2015
4,565
Canada
So when does it give up? I'm not planning on running 3 kits of spray. One is fine. I want to know when does the factory block give up. As in. Can a guy take a regular l79 350 with dished pistons, pump 10 psi of boost into it and then make an extra 50 with a nitrous shot? These are my goals.

Well. I may make a 9 grand motor. Who knows. It's possible.

I think the only way you will truly get your answer is to build it and find out. If you were closer to me, I would dyno it for free!!!

We could start the test at 6,000 and run it to 9,000 at 400 rpm per second, it would only be a 7.5 second run anyway, easy peasy, then you would get your answers.

If anything would vacate the crankcase, there would only be a small cleanup fee and hazardous waste disposal charge, additional fee for metal/aluminum fragments. Could be a lot less expensive for you compared to a true drag strip, and maybe for the guy in the next lane as well.
 




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