pre-paint busy work questions

giggity

Veteran Member
Mar 18, 2013
1,729
Pearland, texas
20180311_151511.jpg

Something I've been going over and over is pre-paint steps. I've searched and come up with a hodge podge of things to do, but I'm not entirely sure of the order. I'm trying to get a game plan down on paper and move forward with this. The logistics are stalling me.

Things i'm looking at.
1. I need to replace the door hinges, specifically the drivers side. I've considered removing the doors, might as well rebuild or replace hinges and striker if I pull the doors. I can sandblast the hinges and epoxy primer them, but should I go ahead and put the doors back on and align them before attempting to take the car down to metal?

I bought new fenders, Im assuming I dont touch these things until Im ready to primer the car. The coating is supposed to be pretty good. If im blasting the car, ill need to remove fenders too.

I'm still considering a dustless blasting kinda thing. My initial thought is to have as much removed from the car as possible for blasting and primer. but then assemble everything prior to painting. BUT I've seen people go ahead and paint jams and tight places before assembling, and since im taking things down to metal and the color is changing Ill have to paint these areas anyways. I cant see painting them with everything on the car.

Piecemealing things seems like a good idea, but my timeline is going to be a lot longer for prep and paint. I'm doing this in my spare time so the car might sit for long periods of time, it doesn't lend itself to doing things all at once. Im scared the color could be off if I mix separate batches, and if I mix everything at once, it has a shelf life. Hoping to have everything done within 6-8 months.
 
May 19, 2018
34
If you're going to remove the door, remove the hinge pin. You don't want to unbolt the hinge itself. It's a total bitch to reallign.

If I were you I would dissassemble the whole car, pull the fenders, door, bumpers and interior, and then either have it soda blasted or chemically stripped with aircraft stripper + pressure washed. DA sand with 80 grit and then prime with two coats of epoxy primer.

I would recommend the stripper because it's cheaper and you don't have to worry about trailering the car back and forth.
 

Jon balch

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Mar 29, 2017
258
Upstate NY
If your going to replace the fenders you can align the doors a lot easier with the fenders off. Shouldn’t be bad at all. It is a pain with them on. You start with the doors anyways. I painted mine last year, if you want a more step by step process let me know I’ll be happy to help
 

giggity

Veteran Member
Mar 18, 2013
1,729
Pearland, texas
If you're going to remove the door, remove the hinge pin. You don't want to unbolt the hinge itself. It's a total bitch to reallign.

If I were you I would dissassemble the whole car, pull the fenders, door, bumpers and interior, and then either have it soda blasted or chemically stripped with aircraft stripper + pressure washed. DA sand with 80 grit and then prime with two coats of epoxy primer.

I would recommend the stripper because it's cheaper and you don't have to worry about trailering the car back and forth.

Ive used stripper before(aircraft...not person...lol) Thats bad stuff, even with a respirator I couldnt get that crap out of my nose for a week. Having said that, Id probably use it for the open flat parts of car, but what about the nooks and crannys, seems that stripper wouldnt be as effective in the tight areas that will need to be painted? Like the hinges, If I dont remove them, how do you prep them for paint? which is more work, removing the hinges, rebuilding and blasting them, and then repainting. Or leaving them on and trying to prep them while connected?

I might be overthinking this, but I dont want to go through the trouble of painting only to have the hinges peel, you know what i mean?
 

giggity

Veteran Member
Mar 18, 2013
1,729
Pearland, texas
If your going to replace the fenders you can align the doors a lot easier with the fenders off. Shouldn’t be bad at all. It is a pain with them on. You start with the doors anyways. I painted mine last year, if you want a more step by step process let me know I’ll be happy to help
I have new fenders, I have them just barely bolted on now. Just doing a crude test fit, and trying to locate all my bolts for reassembly.

Anything would be helpful! Ill take any help i can get!
 

Jon balch

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Mar 29, 2017
258
Upstate NY
I removed my fenders because they needed work. Also removed doors to prime and paint the jams. Also did this with the hood,trunk, and fenders. Then reassembled the car, masked off the painted areas for primer and paint of the outside of the car. I did not strip the car to bare metal. Only the places that need repair. I also filled the parking lights and replaced the door handles with a different style. I first sealed the car, followed by polyester high build primer, White sealer, base coat clear coat. I blocked sanded the car in between each primer coat and obviously after the high build primer. I replaced all the hinges on the doors. Mine were pretty shot.
 

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giggity

Veteran Member
Mar 18, 2013
1,729
Pearland, texas
Man, I hope mine turns out that good!

Im changing colors on the car, it used to be green, Im going to try to go black, so its ganna be tough to make sure I cover all the hard to reach places.

Did you use a Urethane Sealer?
What brand paint?

Thanks for the help!!!
 

Jon balch

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Mar 29, 2017
258
Upstate NY
urethane sealer and paint. House of Kolor products. Black is definitely the hardest color, Every flaw will show. But done right looks bad ass.
 
May 19, 2018
34
You can reduce your epoxy primer with urethane reducer and use it as a sealer. Works great in those situations where you have sanded through to bare metal in a few spots.
 

larrylarry

Veteran Member
Dec 22, 2011
1,615
San Antonio Tx
Those new fenders to be put on now an get then all lined up cause I guarantee they won't fit right. You need to stretch & bend them a little bit, can't do that with new paint on them. I bought new hinges an Im glade I did, my doors shut much better now than doing just a pin change, yeah I know there not cheap but well worth the money. You don't need to buy sealer just use epoxy primer. I have a gal. of sealer I never used. If I were going to paint a car again I do what I did with mine. Spend many hours getting all the small dents out an straighten all the body panel's out as best I could then primed with nothing by epoxy primer. Blocked the whole body, used filler where needed then preimer the car again in epoxy. No high build primer, no sealer just epoxy an base. Took me a year cause I was like you, only on weekends. I wasn't in a hurry. Be sure to leave it drivable, helps to back it in either way.
 




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