Pulley ratio?

PNW.Paul

Veteran Member
Feb 8, 2022
118
I'm concerned with the relative size of my crank vs. water pump pulley.
Crank is about 7.5" and WP is about 5.5".
I thought I read somewhere that the WP could spin too fast and cause cooling problems.

When I added VintageAir, I had a tough time finding a 3-groove crank pulley. Maybe what I chose was too big???

Is the ideal ration 1:1! All guidance will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

FS87LT

Veteran Member
Apr 3, 2010
214
DFW, TX
Might check some of the Camaro and Corvette repro parts vendors' online catalogs for pulleys and their diameters.
 

ssupercoolss

Veteran Member
Nov 3, 2015
1,179
PA
Do you have cooling issues?
My '55 would get hot in traffic or at idle on hot days. looking things over, my WP pulley was bigger than the crank pulley. I went down to about what you have, and all that went away. Of course, all this works differently on different cars, but i know that the WP on my Camaro is also smaller than the crank pulley.
 

PNW.Paul

Veteran Member
Feb 8, 2022
118
Thanks for all of the input. I have some weird temperature behavior. Temp might spike up to boiling while at speed and then drop at idle! My setup is a single large electric fan. I have one sensor for that and another for the gauge. I have to confirm, but I think the fan control sensor is at the front of the intake and the gauge is fed from the rear of the manifold. Not sure what I'll do as I am also looking at a serpentine belt conversion...which will require a reverse water pump (right??). At least all the pulleys will be sized correct as a set.
 

FS87LT

Veteran Member
Apr 3, 2010
214
DFW, TX
"Creeping heat" is more "flow-related" than not, usually. Many people look at the radiator (as I did). Get a non-contact heat gun and check the temp of the radiator after things warm up and the car has been driven. IF it is cooler on the bottom than the top, it is because of sediment settled-out in the bottom of the radiator and decreasing the available cooling fins available to cool the coolant. Which is quite common on a cross-flow radiator with some age on it. As it ALSO looks good when looking down the filler neck, with the radiator cap removed. Been there, done that.

Also, if you have not flushed the engine block, sediment will collect toward the rear of the block, which is lower than the front. Have to pop the core plugs out, flush it out with a hose, then put new core plugs back in. Quite messy, but sometimes needed on older engines as they age.

Use the IR heat gun to see what is hot and what is not, for diagnosis BEFORE you start spending money that might not get the desired results.

Just some thoughts,
FS87LT
 

PNW.Paul

Veteran Member
Feb 8, 2022
118
"Creeping heat" is more "flow-related" than not, usually. Many people look at the radiator (as I did). Get a non-contact heat gun and check the temp of the radiator after things warm up and the car has been driven. IF it is cooler on the bottom than the top, it is because of sediment settled-out in the bottom of the radiator and decreasing the available cooling fins available to cool the coolant. Which is quite common on a cross-flow radiator with some age on it. As it ALSO looks good when looking down the filler neck, with the radiator cap removed. Been there, done that.

Also, if you have not flushed the engine block, sediment will collect toward the rear of the block, which is lower than the front. Have to pop the core plugs out, flush it out with a hose, then put new core plugs back in. Quite messy, but sometimes needed on older engines as they age.

Use the IR heat gun to see what is hot and what is not, for diagnosis BEFORE you start spending money that might not get the desired results.

Just some thoughts,
FS87LT
It's all new stuff. Aftermarket aluminum rad...fresh engine.
I did invest in an IR gun, so I'll be mapping the heat and see how well the sensors are working.
 




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