HEY, it's been awhile.. So far I've had all the powdercoating done except the subframe. Upper & lower control arms, motor mount brackets, trans crossmember, leaf spring pockets, spindles, backing plates, rad support brackets, etc... all done in semi-gloss black and they came out awesome, I'll post some pics soon.
Decided to hold off on PC'ing the subframe and take some measurements, referencing the fisher body manual. Well so far it basically doesn't look so good
The rear rails are bowed in about 9/16" and it does not sit level on 4 even jackstands. Tomorrow I'm going to make a DIY 'tram gauge', see if i can get some accurate measurements down and see how bad it really is..
Worst case scenario, I may have to grind down alllll the welds.. take it to a bud's body shop, tweak it on the frame rack.. keep it clamped solid on the rack and weld it up there.
Meanwhile, I've been making some progress on the body patching the RR floor in the torque box area.. slow going though.
Also got new front floorpans which I'll be doing after the framerails are done.
I'm shooting to have the underbody done and painted and the car back on its feet by spring, hopefully it won't take too long to get the subframe done. Thanks for checking out the progress
John, that sounds alot better than what my bud's frame guy was saying.. Did you already fix yours? I remember it had bowed in a bit like mine did but not as much. What are you using to tweak it? Thanks for the help btw.
I heated it while it was pushed outwards. That worked a little, then i just kept pushing it out cold like 1" past measurement, then a 1\4" more till i got it to finally move to my measurement. Plus if you pump the jack fast, it helps in the bending. Just make sure not to go too far. I had to be pretty much the same since my sub frame bolts over my sub frame connects. The only problem i have now is that the front section is a little too far inwards. I will try the rad support this weekend on it. (Should of put a wood block in the front)
One more thing, if the front section, rad support section, is close, cut a piece of wood to put in the front so when you push out the back it doesn't bend the front in too much. I also pushed out the rear between where the sub frame mounts are for the section under the firewall. You go back much more and you could possibly bend the rail itself. You want it to move at the weld on the crossmember. I did cross measurements before i welded so from my measurements, i knew that only the drivers side needed to move over. the pass side was square. I put the sub frame on the pass side laying upwards and pushed the driver's side up.
I hope this helps, it is hard to explain. If you need more info, message me and i can give you my #. I will try to take a pic tonight of what i did.
I will take a shot at it on sunday, and post before/after measurements.. Going to borrow the oxy/ac torch from work and heat up the welds @ the cradle, stick a 4x4 between the front rails and give it a go.