Real Z28 RS?

[Twisted_Metal]

As COPO pointed out...The trim tag looks like it designates black stripes.
If it had stripes from the factory... It should be a Z28. Correct?

Great looking car but the price is more in line with a numbers matching car.

 

[COPO]

Just my opinion but I would not buy from BAT. But feel free to do what you desire. Other than what I have mentioned the car looks good but not worth $60k because of all the missing correct items whch the buyer will if they want to make the car correct. My guess is $5k or more to make it right.

 

[LoneStarN8]

It’s still a beautiful car, and I’d still be interested even if it wasn’t all numbers matching. Just not at that price. Honestly it not being all original means I won’t feel bad making some creature comfort upgrades. No AC in Texas is brutal.

Twisted_Metal I had wondered the same about the stripes. Didn’t know if you could still get them from the factory as a non-Z

 

[COPO]

Non Z28’s could not be striped in the factory as an option or it would be listed. I believe Twisted was making a joke.

Options

Link from my website.

 

[Twisted_Metal]

Non Z28’s could not be striped in the factory as an option or it would be listed. I believe Twisted was making a joke.

Options

Link from my website.

No joke.
Simply a clarification for someone who isn't as familiar with these early Z28s as some of the members here.

A factory trim tag indicating stripes would lead me to believe it's a Z28, even if the "Z28" part isn't legible.

 

[LoneStarN8]

No joke.
Simply a clarification for someone who isn't as familiar with these early Z28s as some of the members here.

A factory trim tag indicating stripes would lead me to believe it's a Z28, even if the "Z28" part isn't legible.

Thanks for the clarification. That was going to be my next question.

So basically,
Fairly sure it’s a Z28 due to some trim and stripes code on cowl tab, though cowl tag seems to have some suspect damage behind it.
Can’t really prove RS without paperwork/build sheet as it’s just trim, same goes for paint code
Can’t prove numbers marching on motor.
Couple of Z28 pieces missing overall.

As a buyer I wasn’t necessarily seeking out an all original Z28. In fact it not being a complete survivor eases my mind a little for future maintenance/upgrades. What it would come down to now is the price not reflecting an all original car with backing paperwork.

This forum has been great guys thank you. These things tend to deteriorate into ego battles so I appreciate the candor.

 

[70lt1z28]

Only other thing I could add to the good info here already is the tag will most likely not have the “Z28” preceding the 19 for the stripes but instead the Z will be missing, so just a 28. The Z didn’t start appearing until the third week of April (04C) or maybe late in the second week. The VIN is a few hundred cars ahead of mine and mine does not have the Z. Both are 04B cars.
For the trim tag, it may just be several layers of paint build that has washed out some of the info. Some careful use of chemical paint stripper (no abrasives!) May reveal all the info.

 

[Gary S]

Cleaning up a trim tag is very easy. I use oven cleaner. Put it on the tag, wait a few minutes and wash it off. Tag comes completely clean with little effort.

 

[ZsZs]

The cowl tag looks like its never been off the car with the way the corrosion has formed around it. It is a pretty nice looking car. What are high end clones going for these days?

 

[Rosster]

Yeah that price reflectes a fully documented number matching car that’s been fully restored 5-10 years ago. The problem is the parts to bring this back to original are way expensive and more problematic not readily available. Here’s some thought as to what the parts I see missing will set you back (if you are ever lucky enough to find them)

1. Carburetor $1500-$2000
2. Air cleaner $300 (reproduction)
3. complete smog system (reproduction) $2000
4. correct steering wheel $1200
5. exhaust manifolds, tins and exhaust system (reproduction) $1500
6. 772 fan blade and clutch (reproduction) $300

As to the incorrect pass side fender, it would be prohibitive cost wise to remove and replace with all the body and paint costs you’d incur.