rebuild 350 sbc to Hyd. Roller or upgrade to 383 stroker?

Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by matt71Camaro, Jan 21, 2021.

  1. Lowend

    Lowend Administrator. .a car, a man, a maraca. Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Years ago I knew a guy who built a rather ultimate sleeper drag car (which may have been used to take sucker's money at midnight drags).
    Long story short, this 1978 Nova 4-Door looked like grandma's beater, complete with a box of tissues on the dash and an afghan on the back seat. It had a 415 Smallblock with port N20 plumbed under a factory intake manifold and ran low 10's
    He'd taken a set of AFR 210 heads, and marred them up with a concrete abrasion tool, and painted them orange so they looked like factory heads. If I remember right used some sort of high-iron paint to make them somewhat magnetic too. He'd widened the factory wheels but kept the hubcaps and ran a 10.5 cheater slick in the back.

    The point being, it's not hard to make good aluminum heads look like factory if you want.


    Not this car, but not unlike it
    [​IMG]
     
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  2. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    Very good points made so far from the Nasty members.

    the way i see it, it depends on how you will be driving the car, and what RPM area you will be "truly" spending the most amount of time in.

    I have worked with customers who spec'd the "higher rpm engine" for bragging rights on the HP, only to find out they don't really want to drive it in that range...and the car did not compliment the engines power band. They would of been better of with a lower rpm, higher TQ stroker build. Building from scratch, a little block clearance is what's needed, unless the crank needs Mallory to internal balance, the cost is about the same.

    Biggest cost impact is the choice between a flat tappet cam or Roller cam, be it Hyd. or Solid variants.

    There's a replacement for displacement, it's gear multiplication and RPM, and lots of it, and regardless of brand, the high RPM takes a toll on stuff after a while, and the cost goes up for parts that are designed take it and need to last.

    To over simplify, the typical 355 vs 383 trades better top end average HP for better lower/mid range average TQ, everything being the same, it depends on the car's total combo and how you will truly be driving it, and your overall expectations.
     
  3. slamin69

    slamin69 New Member

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  4. slamin69

    slamin69 New Member

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    I purchased a 383 from White performance and machine in Tennessee cam with a bullet proof bottom end and AFR 210 heads and a dyno run for $6800 delivered. It made 581hp 508tq. I love it
     
  5. dickeymoore

    dickeymoore Member

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    Get you a SBC 400 from Blueprint with hyd roller cam and 508Hp and never look back for about $6500!!!!
     
  6. JUNKYARD AUTOCROSSER

    JUNKYARD AUTOCROSSER Member

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    Try to keep the quench close to 0.040. It will improve combustion efficiency which reduces detonation, and you will get more power. I run 0.035 on my engine. Also if this is a street motor think about running smaller heads to increase velocity which makes for a better low end torque curve for street driving. The Edlebrock 170 E-tec might be a good choice. Take care and good luck.
     
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  7. DesmoEd

    DesmoEd Veteran Member

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    It was a high rpm screamer @ 12-1 its gotta have a very healthy cam

    That 383 setup - dish pistons under poor flowing small chamber 60's GM iron heads - sounds much less than ideal to me.

    I respect your decision to keep it mostly period correct but given those limitations I'd stay with the 355. Get the CR down around 10-1, cam it accordingly, and let it spin.
     
  8. matt71Camaro

    matt71Camaro Member

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    I have a 4.11 rear end and a 4 speed tranny. It is mostly driven in town because I don't trust it not to break down on me so I haven't taken it far from home. I do like to take it on the highways to open it up and let it scream down the highways but limit it because I don't trust it fully yet. I would say I mostly drive in the 3000- 5000 RPM range. I haven't been able to open it any further than that because it started to flutter because of the flat cam.
     
  9. matt71Camaro

    matt71Camaro Member

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    Ideally I'm trying to keep the cylinder heads (292 Turbo Chevy heads) and the intake (Edelbrock SY1 Smokey Ram) because of the nostalgia. If I can't get it to run like I want then I'll start to change my dad's parts out for new ones, but would like to avoid it if possible. Just being able to open the hood and see it be the same on the outside would make me happier, if I can get those parts to work.
     
  10. matt71Camaro

    matt71Camaro Member

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    Yes it was a very high screamer. My dad use to race it. I've heard stories from his friends saying how they would be given rides and the tach would be buried, which went to 8500 RPMs. I would say it does have a healthy cam in it but I have no idea what it is, but am going to find out. I did measure the valve spring on the #1 cylinder at TDC and BDC and taking into account a 1.5 rocker arm the lift was calculated to be .700". Not sure how accurate that is, but I'm sure it's close. It was built by a local performance speed shop for drag racing.
     

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