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Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by matt71Camaro, Jan 21, 2021.
Ask that shop if they have a build sheet? I still have all the sheets from my customers engines.
Based on your street driving at 3k-5k rpm I would vote for the 383 stroker. I just had one built and if I remember correctly I think it was an additional $255.
My total cost was $5740 as you see it here.
In reading all of your past posts on your current setup, and the many decisions you need to make, all the while honoring your Dad, I 100% get it and understand, but your in a tough spot with then engine you have.
I have been through these types of "honor" builds, and in the end, the amount of time and money that was spent to "re format" and dial in the old engine ended up costing the same, or even more than starting from scratch.
Parts and labour have gone up to the point that the "383 HP Crate" market and availability has never been better or more affordable.
Companies like GM, Blueprint, Shaffirof, Whites Perf. just to name a few. The "bang for the buck" these companies offer, like a 383/pump gas/Roller cam/aluminum heads & warranty is very attractive. And due to the mass build volume and priority "white box" pricing they most likely receive, it's almost impossible for a small shop operation or independent builder to beat them.
Looking at your rear gear, how you will be driving it including the rpm range, I would suggest pulling the current engine and leaving it complete and untouched on an engine stand to honor your Dad's build the way he built it, and buy a nice 383 crate from one of the top "Crate" builders out there, it runs on pump gas, has all the good parts and will put you in your seat without question.
Looking at a 6,500 top end rpm redline, with a 4.10 and 28" rear tire in 4th gear gets you to 132 MPH. More than that, you better be on a closed race course with the proper safety equipment.
JMO. good luck matt71Camaro
Think of it this way: your dad didnt start his build with a flathead engine and a model T. He built the best machine he could with the best parts that were available at the time. That's what hot rodders do.
I'm sure he would appreciate and be proud of you for doing the same. Build with the best tech and parts you can afford for this time period. Same mindset as your dad. Take his engine, put it on a stand, spruce it up as time and money allows, but right now, drop in a pump gas roller 383 and drive it like your dad did.
What about a top end kit? I've been looking at / reading about these: https://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2099/10002/-1
Anyone had any experience with one? For that price you could replace almost everything else under the hood and still be under the cost of a crate?
^^ X2 Nice kit for sure, those Edelbrock E -Tech are a good cylinder head.
The issue stated by the OP is the engine has large domed pistons for hitting the 12:1 CR range, hence his need for race gas, that being said, you would still need to tear into the engine and switch out the pistons, and rings, then the crank would have to come out to get it rebalanced as there is a good chance the piston weights will be off.
Then, the bores need to be measured before you buy the pistons because who knows what the block was bored & honed @, like on the loose or tight side, was the specs set by the pistons or the bore sizing pending if they are 4032 or 2618, and my bet they are 2618's, old and been rattled more than once, and more than likely the bores and skirts have suffered. One of the reasons I use 4032's for customers who don't know how to warm up there engine properly and like to jazz the throttle on a cold engine.
So the whole engine is now coming apart, all new gaskets, and any good machinist/engine builder will check all clearances before putting it back together, and if the bores or any of the main or rod bearings show age/wear, well, might as well get new bearing cause it makes no sense putting used bearings back in when you've gone this far.....and now your into a complete rebuild with all the parts and labour added up, the 383 Crate would have been less expensive and you would have 2 engines.
Been down this old road so many times you can see it coming. I have a customers 502 BBC with a BDS 8-71 in the shop now that was running a few weeks ago, but not sounding great, came in for a full carb rebuild (dual Dominator's) and a full "check up and tune", well, it didn't pass the check up, brand new Mark VI block just arrived yesterday, see how it goes...just saying.
the above e-tec top end kit details read
Notes: Performance results obtained on a Chevrolet 350ci short block with 9.5:1 compression ratio.
so, seems it won't achieve the stated 435HP, 435TQ unless it has minimum 9.5:1 scr and 350ci
pray tell, I've only heard that fast burn type chambers don't function so well with dome pistons ... dunno?
also, dunno but the roller cam in photo looks like a cast piece to me; not billet steel.