Rebuilt CCC Qjet Tuning

Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by MP81, Oct 8, 2019.

  1. frank5s

    frank5s Veteran Member

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    The tps adjustment screw can be adjusted by tapping a roll pin on top of the screw
    The roll pin is either 9/64 or 5/32 l cannot tell exactly mine is distorted from use.
    The screw is a 2.5mm hex head. Turning in pushes down on tps housing which should lower voltage.
     
  2. frank5s

    frank5s Veteran Member

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    To remove the accelerator pump lever , you push to roll pin in just far enough to take lever out
    A small screwdriver behind the roll pin to reinstall
     
  3. MP81

    MP81 Veteran Member

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    Yeah, that's what I initially started doing and (trying to remember exactly here, since it was last fall) it started to separate, so part of it was still stuck in like...half the way, while the rest of it was all the way out against the housing, if that makes sense.

    And perfect: in = voltage down - that's what nothing online seemed to mention, haha. People said yes it can be adjusted, and what it does...but nobody mentioned what way did what.

    I'll give it a look here in the next couple days and see if I can get it tweaked.
     
  4. frank5s

    frank5s Veteran Member

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    lf you take accelerator lever off, pull out the small pin you can see if the tps is sitting
    in carb correctly and with pin out you can see if the tps changes reading
     
  5. MP81

    MP81 Veteran Member

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    Yup, was thinking just that. Plus, if I end up having to replace the TPS (I don't remember if I lubed this thing or not...I presume the whole outside of the TPS is supposed to be lubed so it slides in the barrel smoothly? What would be the best to use there, if it is required), having that roll pin out means I can get the air horn off a lot easier than what I had to deal with when I rebuilt it.

    [​IMG]
     
  6. frank5s

    frank5s Veteran Member

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    l never lube the tps sensor, when they talk about lube they means on the pin the the accelerator lever pushes on
    Tap out the roll pin holding the lever on and file a little to gain clearance, to tap farther out to get lever off
    Later model ccc carb have the lever rod held by a clip, made life a lot easier.
    lf you put airhorn on before putting on base plate, it is easier to reassemble
     
  7. MP81

    MP81 Veteran Member

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    Ordered a 2.5mm nutdriver that appears to be meant for taking out certain screws on an iPhone, after measuring to make sure the OD would fit inside the barrel the TPS adjustment screw is in. Got it today and thankfully it fits. Turned the screw all the way in (didn't crank on it for obvious reasons, but it's all the way in) and didn't really get much of a change on the TPS.

    Was able to use said nutdriver to also remove the roll pin and get the accelerator pump arm off, and pull out the TPS pin. I confirmed the TPS plunger was aligned directly below, and both it, and the pin, move freely. Is the TPS itself supposed to slide much up and down the barrel? If I push the TPS plunger all the way down (again - this 2.5mm nut driver is the perfect tool - clearly getting my money's worth out of this thing), and then push gently further, I only feel maybe 1/16" or 1/8" of movement from the TPS body. I presume the "arm" that the screw contacts dictates where the TPS sits in the barrel, in order to set curb idle voltage? Could it possibly be misaligned? The TPS goes to 5V from the ~4.6V it sits at with the engine off (it also sits there with the accel pump arm removed).

    Or does it just sound like a "simple" case of the TPS being bad? Now that I've got the accel pump arm off, removing the air-horn on-car should be much, much easier, to replace it.
     
  8. frank5s

    frank5s Veteran Member

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    Sound like the tps is suspect , l didnt like your picture of it lube up, the lube might be shorting it.
     
  9. MP81

    MP81 Veteran Member

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    I didn't lube it when I rebuilt the carb, but that doesn't mean it wasn't done prior to me popping the carb apart, as someone had rebuilt it prior to me getting the car. There's clearly something on it, though I recall it being dry.

    That said, looks like a new one is probably my best bet, unless you think the hook in the air horn that I presume controls the depth at which it sits could be in the wrong spot causing it to read wrong, but with the plunger all the way out (with the accelerator pump arm off), I'm thinking that shouldn't have any kind of effect, so it definitely sounds like a new TPS is probably my best bet.

    It's very likely this was my issue all along, prior to rebuilding, since it is doing similar things. I think the accelerator pump was going and causing it to bog, but I've always fought strange idle issues ever since I got the car. A TPS reading much higher than it should be would put in too much fuel, causing the RPM to rise artificially, and suddenly, like it always did - like a switch.

    Any specific preferred brand for replacement TPS's? Rock Auto looks to have a few of them.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2020
  10. frank5s

    frank5s Veteran Member

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    I had spare carbs , so l would just pirate parts out of the spares.
     

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