Rebuilt CCC Qjet Tuning

Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by MP81, Oct 8, 2019.

  1. MP81

    MP81 Veteran Member

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    Okay, so it just doubles back a good while or something? It's just odd that both wires look to be tan, even in the loom where color likely wouldn't wear off. But all looks to be original, so I'm not too concerned.

    And sort of - I really didn't do anything at all on either car between mid-November and late March. It's been quite decent out lately (and given we're on a stay-home order since mid-March, and I've had...more free time...since a couple Tuesdays ago...), so I've gotten back out into the garage and started tackling my gigantic list of poo on the cars.
     
  2. bourbon_scotch

    bourbon_scotch Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    it's supposed to go to ground between the one wire connector and the other connection at the O2 sensor, at least thats the way my diagram shows it
     
  3. MP81

    MP81 Veteran Member

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    Yeah, that's what I think it does. I think the wire doubles back further down the harness, and comes back to the O2 harness. I'm sure if I disconnect the ends I'll have continuity between them. From what I remember, it's just one wire in and one wire out, but I'll have to double check. Either way, it didn't look like it was messed with, just a bit goofy for GM to do that.
     
  4. frank5s

    frank5s Veteran Member

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    I played with a ccc carb on an 84 SS , you need all of the emission stuff hooked up to get it to work right.
    No AIR pump and O2 sensor just reads rich and computer will send dwell to lean mixture. Also on carb is a Throttle position
    sensor, that needs to be set correctly.
     
  5. RickM

    RickM Veteran Member

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    Have you tried inducing a vacuum leak? If that does not move the meter I would try/check the following

    1. Try a different dwell meter. From the CCC system manual:
    "Some older dwell meters may not work properly on CCC. Don't use any dwell meter which causes a change in engine operation when it is connected to the solenoid lead (green connector)."
    2. Have you obtained the tools need to check the carb? The most critical adjustment is the mixture control solenoid travel. From the GM service manual:
    a. Insert modified float gage down "D" shaped vent
    hole. Press down on gage and release, observing that
    gage moves freely and does not bind. With gage released
    (Solenoid up position), reading at eye level record
    mark on gage (in inches) that lines up with top of air
    horn casting (upper edge).
    b. Then, lightly press down on gage until bottomed
    (solenoid down position). Record in inches mark on gage
    that lines up with top of air horn casting.
    c. Subtract gage up dimension (item "a") from gage
    down position (item "b") and record difference (in inches).
    The difference in dimensions is total solenoid travel.
    d. If total solenoid travel (difference in item "c") is
    not within 2/32" - 4/32", make mixture control solenoid
    adjustments

    If the solenoid is not adjusted correctly, the computer may not be able to lean/richen the mixture even if everything else is setup correctly.

    Good Luck the system is really simple and works well once you get it dialed in.

    RickM
     
  6. Rustbucket350

    Rustbucket350 Veteran Member

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    Swap that setup for a regular Q jet. I wasn't joking when I said you could have two non computer Q jets that are complete. You pay shipping. I'll even toss in a regular operating gm hei distributor AND an intake if you need it. That computer system is terrible. You will be way ahead with this stuff.
     
  7. Rustbucket350

    Rustbucket350 Veteran Member

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    If you take my offer, which I really hope you do, because anyone in their right mind would. Regardless of whether they're an engineer or not. Buy the quadrajet tuning books and learn how they operate.
     
  8. bourbon_scotch

    bourbon_scotch Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Some things worked but were just a bad design. You say you would go the route of EFI but i'm not sure you know how expensive that would end up being.
     
  9. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    If you take my offer, which I really hope you do, because anyone in their right mind would.

    I wish I lived closer! I'd take you up on that, and add beer! I'm no engineer...but I know a good offer when I see it.
     
  10. MP81

    MP81 Veteran Member

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    I can't say for sure, since it was last year, but I do recall measuring the solenoid travel. Easy enough to check again though. I think I used the vernier portion of my caliper which worked well, and I recall it being in the correct range, though I will re-verify that.

    I was also wondering that maybe it's the dwell meter. It's a pretty new Innova timing light that reads dwell, but anything can be bad, I suppose.

    Is it also possible that the O2 warms up, kicks the car into closed loop, then cools off almost immediately, which is why I see no dwell reading? I always plug the dwell meter in after the RPM change, but I'm thinking what if I do it from right after I start and watch it for when the RPM changes?

    I know exactly how expensive that is, which is why I haven't done it yet. There weren't any sales on the parts during Black Friday, so I didn't buy anything.

    The tank and pump will be necessary when I swap to an LS years down the road, anyway. The majority of the other parts I will not need will be able to be sold.

    I'm laid off for the time being, due to all that is going on, so spending basically anything is out of the question right now.
     

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