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Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by MP81, Oct 8, 2019.
Sweet, I hope so - I'd like this stupid carb to finally act right.
In your post 33 , you mention tying coolant temp sensor and dd wiring together , do not do that.
The CCC system is very low voltage and any probing or connecting in wrong spot will causes computer to see a
wrong reading. The dwell tool you said you were using was part of timing light , that might have causes a bad reading.
l ended up making several tools to help adjust carb.
I didn't do that - they're separate. I was talking about teeing the fitting so both the coolant temp sensor and the DD's coolant temp sensor could be off the same coolant "feed", as I currently have the DD sensor in the thermostat housing, so it only works once it opens.
All right, went out there and plugged in this fantastic bit of futuristic technology and hot damn is this easier than most other ways of doing it.
The Monitor 2000 agrees with the dwell meter in that 3 degree reading for MCS Dwell. The Monitor 2000 also confirmed that the car goes into closed loop normally and stays in closed loop - also good for diagnosing things. If I revved it up a good bit, the M2000 would switch to Rich, and dwell would drop to 2, before going back to 3.
I just happened to test the TPS voltage...and unless I'm reading the screen wrong...it's saying something like 3.9-4.0X Volts at about 1000-1200 RPM (the car decided it was going to idle up there, with revs slow to drop - always been an issue with this thing)...spec is 0.56V at curb idle (which should be set to around 750 RPM, in the times I've had the car idle successfully where it's supposed to, so I set it then)...no way it goes up 3.5V in 300 RPM, since it maxes out at about 5V at WOT...
If the TPS is reading stupid high, could this be causing a lot of my issues? If the TPS thinks its near WOT, it's going to be putting in a lot more fuel than it should be, no? The RPM readout off the distributor, read on the M2000 was correct.
EDIT: Checked again - coolant reading is exactly the same as my cluster's sender, so that's good. I also checked trouble codes and bam, code 21: Throttle position high.
That's good. When you rebuilt the carb , how did you set the plunger travel down? l made a tool that slide over primary mixture rod fitting that is 1.304 long. You place that on with the mixture rod out , put the plunger on and push down, turn the adjusting screw until the plunger touches top of homemade tool. l made that out of 1/4 (.250) brake line.
l used 3/16 brake line to make a tool that will slide thru top of carb to turn the mixture control solenoid screw which also
will turn the rich stop screw. l dont put the aluminum plugs in on top of carb.
Another tool l made out of 1/8 rod is to set the idle air bleed , it it a tight u, actually more like a J,
one leg of tool is 1.75 inches longer than other, this has two purposes, it slides down one of the D shaped hole by the air bleed.
When pressed down it move the mixture control plunger down , released and pops up , when using this l noticed on my carb
markings that lined up, these markings are 4/32 apart. Now with same tool put short end over idle air bleed, pressing down it should contact top of air bleed. Doing these steps should get the carb close , the OTC tool you bought will help to finalize
Sorry for long post if you already knew this stuff, but it might help someone else.
I started writing last post awhile ago , was checking facts.
Glad you like the OTC
ln answer to your question yes , you nailed it, now adjust the tps and you should be good
Did the little rod which presses on top of tps, that is moved by accelerator pump lever , fall out when putting carb top back on?
In regards to the MCS plunger travel, I used the baseline setting (number of turns down), but I did confirm that the travel was correct - was able to use the vernier portion of my caliper to fit down the vent hole there, as it just barely fit down, but it worked great!
Yeah, the plunger is in there - so the TPS might need adjustment - I have to look and see if the adjustment screw is uncovered or not...I know that plug is a major pain to get out.
So after thinking some more about the tps reading , if the adjustment screw cover is still on ,
there are a couple of reason for a high reading . Bad tps, stuck tps or frayed wiring.
The OTC tool will work with motor off, ignition on. For such a high reading the tps would have to be almost all the way
It looks like it's been removed for me - of course I only have basically one shot that shows it.
I remember that being an absolute bitch and a half to align up to re-install the air horn, but if the upper rod that touches the TPS plunger was misaligned, I couldn't reinstall the air horn (I couldn't get the roll pin out of the accelerator pump arm up top, so I kind of had to pivot it around the linkage and then set it down that way - it was a bit of a pain, but eventually it worked, as long as the rod was on top of the plunger.
But looks like it's been removed - what is the process for adjustment?
Since I think my curb idle is properly set to 700 RPM, I should be able to set the voltage with the engine off.