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Discussion in 'Electrical Systems' started by sandiego74, Jun 30, 2019.
Interesting. I think I have the same starter, too. PowerMaster? Any one else have info on this?
Below is a Powermaster starter solenoid jumped on a buddies big block drag boat:
And here is a jumper I made for a stock style GM starter out of two ring terminals trimmed to butt up against each other then a short section of wire was crimped into the barrels of the terminals then the whole works soldered:
Next time you crimp put the split in the cradle and the pin on the non split side,makes for a bullet proof connection.
I hear you. It's just forcing myself to do it the other way from how I started doing it wrong years ago.
So, this jumper does what, exactly? I apologize for my lack of knowledge on this subject. Electrical hasn’t never been my forte.
By adding the jumper to the starters solenoid, anytime power is applied to the starter solenoids main power lug, the starter will engage it's own solenoid to kick out the bendix drive and then send power to the starter motors wiring to have it start spinning and thus cranking over the motor. The thing one has to remember is with a jumpered starter solenoid you will need some type of switch on the main power line so the starter will only crank over the motor when it needs to be cranked over.
Most of the times a jumpered starter solenoid on the starter is used with a relocated battery from under the hood to an area like the trunk. By having a solenoid on the starters main power wire in the trunk with the battery in the trunk, the only time the big cable past the trunk solenoid to the starter is energized is when the starter is cranking over the engine. Once the engine is running the trunk solenoid is used to stop or disconnects power to the starter and now this big cable is dead and any short to ground to it will not cause any damage. This short could occur in an accident for example. An issue of doing it this way is now all of the cars other electrics cannot be connected to the starter but now must be connected back at the battery or on the hot side of the trunk solenoid.
On a custom car of mine I wanted to clean and check things on the motor and not have to worry about an possible arcing from a slipped wrench or a ring on a finger so with my batteries in the trunk I have a solenoid on the starter as well as on the main power wire on the alternator to where when the key is in the off position there are no hot wires under the hood.
I don't know you plan of things but if you are doing a relocated battery and then adding new wires to things, make sure the wires are properly protected by things like fusible links, fuses, circuit breakers and such this way if there is a short the wire is protected. On installs I have done with a battery in the trunk, I've run 200A-300A ANL fuses on them depending on the wire gauge and vehicle needs. You just want things to be safe and work automatically. A master on/off switch does not fall into that category.
There is a TON of info out there and a lot of people use info from MAD electrical but be aware, some info may not be complete or up to date.
When in doubt, ask questions like you have and if things are true, then things can be backed up.
This is extremely useful. Thank you, Jim! I’ll try and mess with some things this Friday when I get a day off.
Yeah, it's the XS TorqueMaster. I bought it many moons ago for a 454 in a crew cab that had hot start issues. When my clutch slave cylinder went out, I used that starter to get through an intersection while towing my 34 ft camper.... LOL. It has plenty of torque.
Yep! Same one! I’ll try the jumper and see how that does. Why, though, would this be an issue now after 2 years of starting up just fine?
Months later, and I’m still messing with this. Finally had the issue figured out, which, stupidly, turned out to be a loose connection between the wire running from the ignition to the wire running back to the solenoid that provides power to connect the two main posts. I redid many of the connections and had it turning over again, finally, but the RL45 relay on the firewall blew after a few cranks. I bought a new one, and I was finally able to start it up a few times and drive the car around again, which felt great after such a long time of not doing so. However, I went to start it again this morning, and it seems to be back to where I previously was. I’m pretty sure the relay blew again, since I’ve got power nearly everywhere except the yellow wire running from the relay to the ignition post on the starter solenoid.
1.) Why would I keep blowing these relays?
2.) This is how MAD Electrical suggested to wire everything, but I feel like I could bypass the relay entirely and just use the jumper wire method from the starter battery post to the starter ignition post as several have suggested. Should I just get rid of the relay and rewire it with the jumper?
Below are pictures of the relay, along with the best diagram I could draw of how the starting system is wired. Apologies, ahead of time, as I don’t have much electrical experience, as previously stated.