Remote Solenoid Issue?

Discussion in 'Electrical Systems' started by sandiego74, Jun 30, 2019.

  1. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    I think I stated this in another thread, but the quality of most of those style relays is crap anymore. You really need to try hard to find a good one, I'm sure someone here will know of a decent relay to use. I went through 2 just running 12 volts to my HEI from the battery. You would think a relay could survive that, but no.
     
  2. Jim Streib

    Jim Streib https://www.flickr.com/photos/121766713@N04/albums

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    There are going to be cheap relays out there and better built ones. One can also get relays to fail if used more than what the rating on the relay was designed for (and providing they are real specifications and not highly overrated). I know I tried going the wrong way using the Ford solenoids for continuous use when I didn't know they were designed just for intermittent use with so much time between uses to allow it to cool and last. I had to get relays that were made and designed for what I needed them to do and they cost me about 8 times what the Ford solenoid cost.

    What some don't take into account is how they need to be mounted. If not mounted right, water can have an easier time getting inside of them causing damage.

    In post 40 of this thread, there is a relay with the wires coming out of the relay on the side and the wires need to exit the bottom. This left to right is not as bad as upside down but it could have issues being in that position.

    Here's a factory horn relay in a 60's car that is upside down and now can act like a cup allowing it to fill with water and then put the electronics inside underwater.

    [​IMG]

    This is on a 72 Chevelle and while it is somewhat under the lip of the firewall/cowl, I would try and get it rotated with the wires on the bottom.

    [​IMG]

    Jim
     
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  3. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I was definitely thinking I should rotate it down to protect the wires more. I’ll definitely orientate the next one down.
     
  4. Jim Streib

    Jim Streib https://www.flickr.com/photos/121766713@N04/albums

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    It was just something I noticed and wanted to say something. I too get involved doing things sometimes to where a possible issue could be right there in front of me and I don't see it. :)

    Jim
     
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  5. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Should I keep the relay, or rewire the system without it?
     
  6. Texas70z28

    Texas70z28 New Member

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    I bought my 70 camaro and it has battery in trunk and ford sol. It starts fine but it seems to me it causes some grounding issues and i added grounds. I hear about heat soak etc but i may get rid of all that and put it back up front to simpify. Whats the big advantage of all this extra wiring is it strictly due to heat by starter?
     
  7. muscl car

    muscl car Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    This is exactly why I didn't wire my trunk mounted battery using relays and solenoids . I've seen way to many times at the Dragstrip cars not starting and blocking the staging lanes because of a failed relay or solenoid

    I just wired mine using a hvy duty Moroso battery disconnect that has a 300amp continuous / 2k amp surge rating and its NHRA legal and also has a Alternator kill set up
     
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  8. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Unless someone convinces me otherwise, I think I’m just going to rewire it without this relay. Seems a lot more complicated with it.
     
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  9. sandiego74

    sandiego74 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Literally did nothing but change out the relay, and now I’m back to where this thread began...

    I hate electrical!
     
  10. muscl car

    muscl car Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Like mentioned just rewire it using only a Moroso hvy duty battery disconnect
     

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