Removing doors before paint

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by 69venture, Nov 5, 2018.

  1. cadillac_al

    cadillac_al Veteran Member

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    I never see body shops remove doors for a paint job.
     
  2. GoldenOne7710

    GoldenOne7710 Equal Opportunity Offender Lifetime Gold Member

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    We took the doors AND hinges off mine altogether. It made sense because #1, we sand blasted the entire car, including the door jams. #2, I bought all brand new door hinges. #3, we replaced the outer skins on both doors...which was easier to do with them off the car.
     
  3. Jim Streib

    Jim Streib https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums

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    And that makes sense as the hinges are bolted on and I'm just used to mine being welded on and I would think with painting the hinge area then putting the hinges back on after that should an adjustment be required the shifting would not possibly expose just primer or bare metal.

    Jim

    I've seen body shops not even take anything off before shooting the jambs:

    [​IMG]

    I look at painting some area's and to really get at an area, things have to be accessed. Just like when I had parts blasted. Some parts I could access everything to blast while other times I had to take more things apart or have the part immersed in chemicals to clean things.

    Yes there may be situations that doors, trunk lids, hoods, or whatever do not have to be taken off but sometimes they do. It's all how you want to do things and what you are expected in the results.

    Jim
     
  4. 69venture

    69venture Member

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    Yes I have a door rack that mounts on a floor jack. I wouldn't consider do this without it.
     

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  5. 69venture

    69venture Member

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    Cadillac you make a good point. I guess that is why I question myself for doing so. My justification was experienced body shops can navigate an all over paint job better than I can and they are working against time. Time is money! For me, not doing it everyday it just makes things easier to navigate and I have the luxury of being able to take my time. I have worked in an automotive paint manufacturing facility for 24 years and 7 of those years were spent manually repairing paint jobs. I literally sprayed 30 plus repairs a day as well as some movie and show cars. We never removed a door to paint a cut in. That was in the late 90s. If this were a metallic color this would not be a good idea. I'm painting a mono white on this car. I really appreciate everyone's input!
     
  6. Jeep43

    Jeep43 Veteran Member

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    I've always stuck to mono paint for the same reason. I like to panel paint and don't want to take a chance the poly wont match up. This is why I am considering painting my car mono red Paint code 75 rather than the original metallic 74.

    The nice thing about panel painting is no tape lines in the jambs but assembly can be nerve wracking.
     
  7. 70lt1z28

    70lt1z28 Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Like this? fr_300_size640.jpg

    I'm also thinking about getting the doors set and gapped right with the rear quarter and the rocker and then drilling-doweling with 1/4 inch steel dowels where the hinge bolts to the body. When all is done, grind the end of the dowel flush and fill-sand it so it can't be seen.
     
  8. Jim Streib

    Jim Streib https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums

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    The floor jack door support I used for mine was not NEAR that neat and consisted of a balanced 2x4 on top of the jack cup resting on the underside of the door. BOY was that fun balancing, getting into position, and so on. That one looks to be a lot better.

    I guess you could with your idea pin the hinges but in my opinion, I would probably not do that on mine if they were bolt on style hinges (my stuff has the welded on style). Just seems like a lot of work and then later if something needs to be changed, what then needs to happen ?.

    I did though on my hatchlid on my 74 Nova, undo the factory welded on hinge half on the body side and then added elevator bolts to them and then drilled oversized holes in the roof lip area. On the underside I added fender washers to where I can shift the lid all different directions and then once I had it where I needed it to be and the nuts ran down tight against the washers and the body lip of the car, I added a couple of tack welds to where now I can take the nuts off on the interior side and lift the hatchlid off and then when putting it back on the studs fit right through the washers and it stays aligned. If I ever have to readjust the hatchlid, I can cut the tack welds loose on the washers, move things around, and tack the washer down once again.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Jim
     
  9. lapedr

    lapedr Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Can you just paint the door jams only off the car then install the door aligne it then finish painting outside and any edges which can be shot over with a detail gun. My problem when I painted mine off on work benches is that the body lines changed when the door was hung and the jack released the door slightly buckled and threw off thr body lines bc the door flexed.
     
  10. Double R Restorations

    Double R Restorations Veteran Member Gold Member

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    Here is a pic of the dolly I have been working on. This is a Parts Tree by Auto Twirler that I have modified to be able to raise and lower a door. I'm not finished with it yet, so I'm not sure how well it will work.

    [​IMG]
     

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