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Discussion in 'Interior Restoration' started by bowtie1, May 29, 2008.
It will be easier to take the time to remove the screws, mask everything off and dye it on the car.
holy crap, dude...............you can't really be serious.....leave them in the car
This is not rocket science here, remove the e-brake assembly, a few screws in the kick panels, and maybe the dimmer diconnected
The heater box does not have to come out. Just pull on the kick panel and lift it up and out so that the baffle door housing can clear the interior sheet metal.
Unfortunately, on the driver side, the e-brake assembly MUST come out. But it's pretty easy. There are to nuts on the engine-side firewall just below the MC/booster that need to be removed then one bolt and one nut that hold the e-brake assembly in place inside the car. This will allow you to swing away the e-brake assembly enough to remove the rest of the kick panel mounting screws and to remove the panel. I have never had to remove the dimmer. Just manouver the kick panel around it
thanks for all the tips guy's.
I just removed the kick panel from the passenger side.
It was being held in by putty. Was this done at the factory?
Yeah.And lots of it!
Make sure you put that putty back too or you'll have a floor full of water. For years I had this leak on the passenger side in the front. One day when I had my rug out I was washing out the cowl area and noticed water coming in. Put in new putty no more leak whoo hoo.
Thanks for telling me, if you didn't say anything I probably wouldn't have.
IIRC I had to pull the heater box on my '77 with AC. I was going to pull the box anyway, so I may have decided to just get it out of the way before taking out the passenger kick panel. I still think that the actuator wouldn't clear the sheetmetal without removing the box first though
yea it was done at the factory, and you need to replace it also.........a great replacement can be bought at Home Depot, by all of the weather seal for windows and doors...