Repair Drivers Side brake line.

Danno74z

New Member
Mar 31, 2012
5
Colorado
Have you removed the existing line? I got a plug to cap the proportioning valve that supplies the rear line. Also, I had one heck of a time bleeding the rear brakes when all said and done. Hopefully you have a good brake bleeder. Another point. Don't touch you brake pedal after you removed the line. My new MC and proportioning valve has a shuttle valve built into it and senses a major leak and it will prevent you from bleeding the rears (or fronts). Buy yourself that little tool the keeps the shuttle valve centered within the proportioning valve. Remove the pressure switch and screw in the tool. I assume the OLD OEM PV works on the same principle as the new PV. After you get the brakes bleed and have a good pedal drive around a little and leave the tool in place for a bit. Let the fronts and the rear lines equalize. Remove the tool and put back the brake warning switch. Hopefully your brake warning light will stay off after the engine starts up. Mine stayed on and I know I had no leakes but after a day or two it went off its own.
 

Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
396
Dallas, North Carolina
Yes the existing line has been removed. Good tip about touching the brake pedal. Thanks for that.

I have a brake bleeder for when Im ready. Im still doing the pans, so its not going anywhere fast yet.
 
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Quazit

Veteran Member
Gold Member
Feb 23, 2021
396
Dallas, North Carolina
So, I was a little concerned considering the feedback about their lines. But, let me tell you, if you need a good brake line, Inline is the way to go.

The line they sent is prebent (I ordered the stainless) and I laid it next to the original line and it is just a tad longer, which is outstanding. I snapped a couple pics which Ill add here shortly.
 

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70-camaro

Veteran Member
Mar 25, 2010
4,402
marietta ohio
I had no bad experience with Inline Tube stainless either. I replaced all of my lines with them. Now time to bleed the whole system.
 
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rocket dawg

Veteran Member
May 5, 2015
566
Grand Rapids Mi
The method I used to bleed the brakes is quite simple. Start with the right rear. Open the bleeder and crack a beer. Place a catch pan underneath. Once clear new fluid is flowing, close the bleeder. Left rear is next with another beer. Keep the Master cylinder full all the times. Never push a brake pedal to the floor unless the master cylinder is new. Small half pulse/pumps is all thats needed if you use that method. Sometimes you can take out a seal in the MC if the piston travels to "unchartered territories" Right front is 3rd in line to bleed, and then left front. Replace 100% of the fluid. You will have a high chance that the rear bleeders wont budge. Use a 6 point socket. If they strip, you have to replace the brake cylinder. Still not a huge job. If they show signs of wetness inside the brake drum, replace them anyway. The only OEM lines left on my 79 are the front ones. MC to the flex lines. They didnt rust up. I put a MC on at the same time. Every flex line is now stainless flex lines from Summit racing. The brakes on my car are night and day difference once everything was replaced. The flex lines and MC were to blame but once the project started, everything was replaced and I very happy with the outcome. I ordered the rear axle brake line from Inline tube as well, fit like a glove
 

rotinrob

Veteran Member
Oct 2, 2018
273
Generally installing quality stainless hoses has a big impact on brake pedal feel, they don't expand under pressure like the rubber hoses do. I have a homemade pressure bleeder that I attach over the MC. Just a plate with an air fitting and a rubber gasket. Need to be careful though not to run the fluid out of the rear chamber, the front not so bad as it is bigger. Use no more pressure than required to flow fluid, also this eliminates bench bleeding the MC.
The beer method is more fun but my preference is Canadian Mist.

rotin
 




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