Response on my cam choice?

You can also get +.050 valve retainer locks from Alex's but then you may or may not need longer pushrods also. But both will help with valve lift.

 

Interested in why you want the cam coming in at 1300rpm, especially with a stick unless you are wanting to tow something? Is this a Camaro weighing in at 2750 lb.'s? If so that is really light even is stripped down that seems awful light to me.

I would think you would want the rpm range up from like 1500 - 5800 or so with the gear that low too. I don't think you are going to have any issues with torque down low with 410 gears. If your heads are flowing good above .500 with the port work I would think with a stick you would be more towards a 278 or 280 duration with .510 to 530 lift if your at or above 9.5 compression ratio. that should get pretty fun to drive. Interested to see some of the builder guys thoughts on this.

 

nice lookin' cam for ~ 10:1 street 350 ... but me thinks a shorter LSA (~ 106* - 108*) will make noticeably more low-end torque. For low-end torque, even 110*- 112* is better than 114* ... everything's a trade-off ... consider what RPM range your street-car spends most of its life.

each of these four are billet steel and have 112* LSA and are quite affordable; recent additions to summit's house cam line
https://www.summitracing.com/compare#

FWIW most of the more affordable rollers are Not billet steel, they are cast (including Howards cheaper rollers). Those 4 above are billet steel.

 

A 114° LCA will be better for less detonation than a narrow LCA and the wider LCA cam will make more top end power not less.

 

If your using a true 180* split dual plane, you could/should carb up.

Actually the opposite, the wider LSA flattens the "peak" and stretches the top end rpm HP and calms down the idle given the same duration.

I 100% agree with 1980RS on this, but I use the LSA acronym instead.

 

suggest avoid detonation concerns primarily with both proper quench and proper CR; not primarily by cam.

 

The problem with many if not most of the off the shelf step nose cams on a wide LSA is that they were designed to run in the LT1 20+ years ago when the means that we had to tune with was not where we are now in regards to technology. I know this is true with the howards cams, because it says "LT1" on the cam card to every one that they make. Comp is the same way on their wide lsa step nose cams. This is how they ended up offering the wide LSA's in the first place.

The wide LSA was a band aid to maintain favorable idle characteristics, AKA vacuum signal to intake tract. What you end up with is a small cam that gives up gobs of low and midrange torque and has to rev to match the power that it didn't make in the lower RPM ranges.

I have 2 small block (383,350) motors today that I put together about 10 years ago using the small cam/wide LSA approach and I absolutely hate the power delivery in both of them. Both will be recammed with a narrow LSA cam (among other things) before this summer. One is EFI, one is carb.

To each their own, but on a small block that I intend on keeping under 7000 RPM I vow to never run a cam with an LSA wider than 108. Bigger cube big blocks and/or high rpm would be the exception. Torquey tight LSA cams are so much more fun to drive on the street.

If I want a smoother idle, Ill keep LSA's tight but go with less duration. That's what I should have done 10 years ago.