RIP: George Morris - 1955 - 2016 - Orange71 Winter Projects

doublec

Veteran Member
Dec 18, 2011
1,977
Harrisburg, Pa
Orange71 said:
Thanks!
I just wanted a smooth look to the install, especially the end portions in the wheel well. The rivets made sense to me to do that. They provide a good tight install and as I mentioned earlier a pretty easy removal. :)


I used button heads on the end portions to clean up the look in the wheel wheels but have to say the rivots look really sharp.
 

Orange71

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Jan 31, 2001
3,792
Finksburg, MD
PrimerZ383 said:
Looks great! I have to remember what you did when it comes time to do mine. Hopefully we will be able to meet once I get mine on the road.

Thanks! I have a few car friends out there in Harford County so we should meet up somewhere.
 

Orange71

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Jan 31, 2001
3,792
Finksburg, MD
About this time last year I posted here that one of my projects for that winter was to change out the valve stem seals. Well, I never did get to doing that so it gets done this winter. A little smoke is showing at startup so I figure it's time to do the job. The Edelbrock RPM heads have been on the engine since 1997, gets about 2000 miles a season, and then sits for 3-4 months. I picked up the seals - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-9725/overview/ - last winter along with this valve spring compressor - http://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=906784 - and air compressor line for the 14mm spark plug holes - http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wmr-w84003

1st thing was to get the front of the car to a comfortable height for this old man:


Valves covers off & ready to go. Hmmm...are the g-braces going to be in the way?


Working the intake valve on the #1 cylinder:


Moving to the next cylinder in the firing order...uh-oh:


The g-braces are in the way of getting the compressor all the way on so they need to come off. I decided instead to move them out of the way. Another good thing about the adjustable braces. Remove the cowl & UCA mounts and loosen the fender mount. Then loosen the adjusters move the brace off the removed mounts and then completely remove the upper cowl portion of the brace. From there it can be moved out of the way.



I finished up 5 cylinders before my back said enough. I picked up these earlier today and with a high of 25 degrees I figured this would work...it's time:
 

Orange71

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Jan 31, 2001
3,792
Finksburg, MD
I was looking at the cowl panel the other day and had an idea that since the g-braces were off that I would make up a cowl panel brace that would fit under the panel and tie the g-braces together. I figure it would also strengthen the mounting points for the g-braces.
I didn't take any fab pics but it's pretty much a 1"x3/16"x30" piece of steel with holes drilled out for the g-brace mounts and 2 more bolts closer to the center of the cowl panel to bring the brace up to the panel for a tight fit. After all the mock-up fitting painted it satin black and did the final install.





 




Latest posts

Top