- Feb 14, 2016
I have a flat tapper cam but i wanted to know if i could use a roller rocker arm i mean i don’t wanna mess anything up or lose power
Yes i do have guide plates and are those self alignment
In comparison to a standard stamped steel rocker, you can get some deflection and distortion when using a higher lift cam and a stamped steel rocker. This can yield inconsistent valve lift across the entire valvetrain...which amplifies at higher RPM's.Roller tips do very little to help other than reducing the size of the contact patch. Spintron testing shows the rollers don't actually roll over the tips of the valve but slide instead. They do seem to help reduce side loading on the valve, though.
The full roller rockers help a bit more, but most of that is from better geometry than reduced friction or anything else to do with the roller fulcrum.
None in the pics are self-aligning.
hi there,my z28 78 Camaro need rocker arm replacement, i looked online for a bolt one upgrade, is these roller rocker are direct replacement or need to modify anything to install them, my engine is still stock in every point is this will effect my engine or upgrade it , what you think?Yes you can upgrade
there are roller tips and there are full roller rockers Look at the pics
Anything you can do to reduce friction makes power. Personally, I wouldn't mess with the roller tips. Though we’ve built a lot of circle track engines with them because of rule limitations.
Stay with 1.5 ratio and when you install them.
Close the valve(base circle) and turn the pushrod with your fingers, it should rotate freely without moving up and down. Then tighten another 1/2 turn. Look at the diagram of the cam lobe I put up.
Here is a rule of thumb for making Power =
As Much Compression as possible 10:1 Usually for 93 octane, sometimes more-
Reduce friction (Roller Rockers & Lifters/Cam & even Teflon bearings) & build the engine loose.
Reduce weight (Rotating assembly, valve train, transmission components & Anything else, cars weight etc),
Optimum Burn- Volumetric Efficiency (zero deck block, low quench area, (Mines at 0.040”) and ignition timing (I’m at 36 degrees)
There is No Replacement For Displacement -MORE Cubic Inches The Better
AND--- the thing most “Hot Rodders” forget-BRAKES-They fade at high speed
There is way more than what I typed which is just a starting point
I built an engine 10 years ago with about 9:1 zero decked block with stock 882 heads (325hp) and took it to get smog tested without cats on it. It burned cleaner than most new cars that came in.
Zero decking is one of the things you do to “blueprint” a block. That and align lifter bores, main bearing bore alignment, But zero deck and a perfect straight line for the crank to spin in is most important (Cam too)
Get rotating assembly balanced
My block is low filled with epoxy for strength and runs a perfect 185 degrees. (Low filled to the bottom of the cylinders)
VERY LAST=Cubic Dollars