Running new fuel line tank to carb

Discussion in 'High Performance Modifications' started by reinhardt79, May 20, 2017.

  1. reinhardt79

    reinhardt79 Veteran Member

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    Where can I purchase 1/2" OD steel tubing to bend a new line front to back? What type of tubing do I need? I am leaning towards steel rather than stainless to save cost, the first one lasted 35 years. I have frame connectors welded in w/ solid mounts, so plan to bend one piece of tubing from front to back. I have a shopping list of fittings on Summit Racing, but it appears they don't carry 1/2" OD steel tubing, only aluminum. I am unsure what wall thickness is needed, seamless or not, etc. Plan to use AN fittings at each end of line. Plan to flare the line with tube nuts on each end.
     
  2. Zspoiler

    Zspoiler Veteran Member

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    Moroso 1/2 inch aluminum fuel line .I used Adel clamps ,and #8 AN braided line and fitting.NASCAR Mechanical fuel pum..And just run the line along the stock location. And used the original 3/8 fuel line for the return.You can modify the original sender assembly.And or "sump" your tank.It all depend on your application
     

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  3. mrdragster1970

    mrdragster1970 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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  4. mrdragster1970

    mrdragster1970 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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  5. 70-camaro

    70-camaro Veteran Member

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  6. reinhardt79

    reinhardt79 Veteran Member

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    I fit pipe for a living. Bending some fuel line is not hard for me. I prefer to bend it myself, then it will be EXACTLY how I want it. I'm that kind of OCD. :) Thanks for the link mrdragster1970, but that is a lot of tubing, could do 6 or 7 cars with that roll. Would this one work?
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-OD-x-25...035381?hash=item45f07668f5:g:Zu8AAOSwx-9WxeDh

    It is only a .020 wall compared to a .028 wall on the tubing you posted. Neither one has a working pressure listed, but I am sure they will both handle the pressure of a fuel system. Is there a reason you specified .028 over .020 wall thickness?
     
  7. Plant Engineer

    Plant Engineer Veteran Member

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    Do yourself a favor and get some cupronickel tubing instead of the steel or stainless. Much easier to bend and flare and much stronger than aluminum.
     
  8. 71 rs BBC

    71 rs BBC Veteran Member

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    I didn't have any luck bending the copper/nickel stuff kept wanting to kink or flatten out in the bends. I've gotten sticks of tubing from the local supply house. I'd make sure it was DOM (drawn over mandrel) so it holds it shape better and not crack on the seam or weld. I'd make sure it's cadmium, zinc or something plated. Mine are anodized aluminum on the car right now.
     
  9. Plant Engineer

    Plant Engineer Veteran Member

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    Aluminum is fine for carburetor apps but don't ever try to use it over 10lbs pressure. Ive never kinked a cupronickel line but you do need a good captive bender to do it right.
     
  10. 71 rs BBC

    71 rs BBC Veteran Member

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    Ya FI needs steel or stainless. Sorry. I tried doing some tranny lines with cupronickle. I used a swagelock bender and it didn't work very well. Kept collapsing in the bend. That was with 5/16" .3125 OD tube with about a 1" radius bend.
     

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