Rust belt guys,help in DD ft wheel bearing removal [rusted in]

Discussion in 'The BS Topic' started by 72'z'steve, Sep 24, 2020.

  1. 72'z'steve

    72'z'steve Veteran Member

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    I thought I'd post here as its not camaro related,plus I never look at suspension topic.
    Wifeys 2001 zr2 blazer has the slow shutter abs thing going on,I bought 2 new timkens to install.Started on right side as for some reason they are always the most rusted in my experience.Everything came apart well other than the bearing is wildly seized to the spindle.I didn't want to get nuts and destroy the hub as it spins fine.Anyone have tips for removing?? I don't want to open a big can of worms pull spindle etc.Truck only has 105 k on it but is getting rusty on the bottom.I'd just pull the abs fuse and be done with it but its wifeys truck-Funny she bitches about the abs when it works in the winter.
    If mods feel need to move cool,I just wanted to get a little more exposure-Later Steve!!
     
  2. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I'm a little confused by your description...

    Front bearing on a 2WD Blazer?
    On the 4Wd drive, you replace the entire hub/bearing assembly.
     
  3. gramps

    gramps Veteran Member

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    Are you just replacing the sensors or why the concern on if you wreck the bearing?
    didn’t see you mention this, but is the cv shaft “loose” meaning can you push it in and out within the center of the bearing or is that rusted/seized also?

    1: heat it up with a torch. Let it cool. Repeat. Good size hammer and give it a couple love taps. If that fails grab a regular chisel and hit the mating area between the flange and the spindle. Work Your way around the flange.
    Have yet to have one not give in to me with this method.

    Worst I’ve ever had was a cv shaft nut that wouldn’t give, after I broke the 3/4 drive breaker bar I yanked the spindle and took the works to a buddy of mine. Acetylene torch until it was nearly white hot and a 1” impact was the cure.
     
  4. Mike N

    Mike N Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Big hammer...... works every time.
     
  5. dcozzi

    dcozzi Veteran Member

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    Second on the BFH.
    Torch has always worked for me as a final method when all the time and in Break Free in world will not help.
     
  6. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    Hammer time. Hit it like a man, it will go. You wont hurt the spindle. If 4wd, make sure axle nut is off. Even if for some reason u have to pull the spindle off, it's not a big deal to do. Just time.
    Tip of the day: when you bend the backing plate (and you will), make sure you bend it back. Sucks to bang it all together and have the backing plate scraping on the rotor.
     
  7. 72'z'steve

    72'z'steve Veteran Member

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    Sorry on the confusion,4wd zr2,all the bolts out cv loose bearing /hub rusted to the hole in spindle.,I managed to get it broke loose/out though! here is what I ended up doing,I put a old rotor on backwards,[I save my scrap]so there was space between spindle and rotor and area out from the perimeter then took 2 porta-powers with scissors ends and put one at 11 o'clock,other at bottom 6 o'clock,tensioned them up equally and used air chisel on bearing housing to vibrate. It SLOWLY cracked loose,I mean 60 thousanths a time the whole way out,didn't pop fought me the whole way! I've done probably 5 pairs over the years [wifey loves her blazers] right side is always more rusty but never anything like this! I'm guessing being the originals 19 years old has something to do with it :(.
    I saw guys on u-tube with bottle jacks to the frame stressing the ball joints tie rod eds etc didn't want to bend stuff up.
    The surge is gone,on the fence whether to do the left,I have it and of course it will fail when its 20 below out.Tools are stored away for tonite/iI'm done maybe tomorrow!!
    Thanks for the replies,It seems when I work on junk things just fall into place never a problem,when I work on our "nice" stuff its always something! Later Steve!!
     
  8. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I've had great luck using an air chisel to get the hub out.

    By the way… Timken hubs are no longer made in the USA. :(

    Exactly!
    I had that happen the last time I replaced a hub on my 2000 Jimmy.
    GF drove it the next day and tells me it has a "weird scraping noise". :oops:

    Had to jack it up and pull the wheel off to get at the darn thing. :mad:
     
  9. 72'z'steve

    72'z'steve Veteran Member

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    ^^^^ Proudly made in South Korea :mad: I wasn't happy about that,but bought them online so I just rolled with it.I get wifeys hand me downs I drive her old 99 zr/2 [264 k on it] and I threw the cheapest chinesium bearings from Fleabay on 5 years ago -49 bucks a pair and have had no problems probably 40-50 k on them.
    Wifeys truck gets better stuff gotta keep her happy :p
    Rear backing plates are the worse,rotate the tires and they scrape/grind etc.they finally rusted/fell off the one I drive good riddance-Thanks for the help/tips Steve!!
     
  10. Twisted_Metal

    Twisted_Metal Administrator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    You can replace those rear backing plates without pulling the axle.
    You just cut a slot in them, slide it over the axle and bolt them on.

    Not sure why I bothered to do that as they will just rot away again.

    Trucks like a Tahoe use a different backing plate.
    They make a two-piece version which slides together with locking tabs.
    (Don't know why they don't make that style for a Blazer.)
     

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