S10-Blazer rear disc conversion

Fbird

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Lifetime Gold Member
Feb 12, 2011
6,449
atlanta, ga
pretty sure I will have a FIX for the cable issue SOON. I will be using 2nd gen LEFT REAR DISC cables and a couple "adapters" to make it happen. 1 is weld on, 1 pc is bolt on and 1 pc is slip on...lol


edited to proper cable used.
 
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kacy

New Member
Oct 6, 2017
11
I picked backing plates, calipers with brackets today from a yard for $60 going to replace my stock ws6 rear brakes.
 

Fbird

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Lifetime Gold Member
Feb 12, 2011
6,449
atlanta, ga
NO...not that I found. using the 2 spacers per side (1/4" total) worked perfect. You will need to use a sanding drum to open up the ID just a little bit (maybe 20 minutes) AND drill the holes in your axle tube brakets for the 10mm bolts...or use original 3/8 bolts..... but its easy enough and again mine was a OEM 4 wheel disc car.

I have not had time to "fix" the e-brake cable issue YET but the best configuration I came up with is FACTORY LEFT REAR DISC brake cable and a few mods (coming soon) and all should be fine. While you have the s-10 backing plated torn down I would recommend 1 little mod (soon to be noted) that you will need to WELD an "cup" to the OEM e-brake lever....so that a "button" type cable end has somewhere to nest...again ....coming soon
 
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kacy

New Member
Oct 6, 2017
11
These brackets I just got from that link are bigger than the tubes I have, no need to open them up. Do you have pics of your spacer brackets?
 

Fbird

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Feb 12, 2011
6,449
atlanta, ga
do the bolt holes line up? I just noticed the "link" is not the EXACT ones 1 bought.
10 bolt spacers
same folks ..different number.

Ebrake mods are as follows:
1. use 1 "coupling nut" add a piece of threaded rod to extend original FRONT cable. (5/16-18)
2. Weld a small piece onto S-10 ebrake lever (small cup with slot for F-body cable end)
3. Add spacer to to rear cable so housing sheath is correct length. (this is the part i'm working on as it must be simple, effective and WORK)
SPACER:
each side will require 3 pcs.
3" long 3/8 NPT brass or SS PIPE (length is curently undertemined...coming soon)
1 pc 3/8 --> 1/4 adapter (3/8 female x 1/4 male)
1 pc 1/4 npt CAP
 
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Fbird

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Lifetime Gold Member
Feb 12, 2011
6,449
atlanta, ga
With said parts you also need 35/64 drill bit (.547") and a 5/16 drill.
Screw the "cap" on the adapter then drill thru with .312 drill. You will need to modify the "adapter" HEX area so it will seat in the holder. (will be self-explanatory with picture)
You will cut 1/2" off the length of the tubing THEN drill THAT end with the .547 drill. This will then slip onto the end of your cable housing. (you will need to squeeze the "tabs" down on the cable so they are not so BIG...
 
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Fbird

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Feb 12, 2011
6,449
atlanta, ga
full
 

kacy

New Member
Oct 6, 2017
11
do the bolt holes line up? I just noticed the "link" is not the EXACT ones 1 bought.
10 bolt spacers
same folks ..different number.

Ebrake mods are as follows:
1. use 1 "coupling nut" add a piece of threaded rod to extend original FRONT cable. (5/16-18)
2. Weld a small piece onto S-10 ebrake lever (small cup with slot for F-body cable end)
3. Add spacer to to rear cable so housing sheath is correct length. (this is the part i'm working on as it must be simple, effective and WORK)
SPACER:
each side will require 3 pcs.
3" long 3/8 NPT brass or SS PIPE (length is curently undertemined...coming soon)
1 pc 3/8 --> 1/4 adapter (3/8 female x 1/4 male)
1 pc 1/4 npt CAP
Yes the holes lined up, it was a little snug with the original bolts from the TA baking plates.
 




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