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Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by Trashman, Mar 20, 2014.
Here is the GM procedure I use when I set solid lifters.
Either valve lash is incorrect, or you have issues with valve seating. I'd supsect the first scenario though. Improperly installed cam isn't going to affect compression numbers differently, they'll all be off.
I didn't see Solid lifters, Only do this for HYD lifters.
Sorry im a moron, they are hydraulic lifters. It is Comp Cams High Energy grind.
.460/.460 lift, 110deg lobe separation with 218/218 dur at .050.
Dad thinks I put the cam in off and valve are opening too early/late
What method are you using for setting the valve lash on each individual cylinder?
The EO/IC method, firing order, or with the engine at idle?
This comment of yours threw up a huge red flag.
"Then It was running bad and all the pushrods were somehow loose so I tightened them again . . ."
If it was running bad after you set the lash on them, then you may not have done it properly. If only a lot of them were loose then it's fine. It's called lifter bleed down. The hydraulic pressure in them bleeds off a little as they sit. That's why you're supposed to let the lifters sit in a bath of oil overnight before you install them. It's not to "lube them" as a lot of people think.
If you did it properly and all of them were truly loose you are either wiping all of the lobes of the camshaft down or all of the rocker arm studs are pulling out of the head. Since they're aftermarket World heads they probably have screw in studs. Are they tight against the stud boss?
I hooked a push button to the solenoid and went to through each valve, tightening rocker when the lifter is fully depressed till the pushrod is finger tight (wont rotate) then tightening 1/2 turn after that.
Fully depressed as in bottomed out? That's too far.
I'd recommend that you use a method that ensures each lifter is on the base of the lobe. Personally I've always used the EO/IC method. It's fail safe. It does take longer but works every single time.
BTW, I've never used the "spin the push rod" method. I have a horrible feel for resistance when I'm spinning it in my fingers. Too much oil either on my fingers or on the ends of the push for me to feel comfortable/confident enough to use that method. I just jiggle the pushrod up and down until it stops moving then go 1/4 to 1/2 addition turn.
Do whichever is comfortable for you.
As a last resort I'd try that method before you start tearing the engine apart for no reason.
Ok, loosened them all up, did the EO/IC method again, turning engine over by hand in correct firing order. Still throwing fuel out the carb under load. Though after I was done I could rotate some of the push rods. Is this ok?
GM Service Manual (spin and up and down movement)
SETTING HYDRAULIC LIFTERS
Hydraulic flat tappet and roller - 3/4 down from 0 lash.
EX - 1-3-4-8
IN - 1-2-5-7
Rotate to TDC #6
EX - 2-5-6-7
IN - 3-4-6-8
You could always rust proof your engine bay
The hot run method, it is messy, but is effective.
Pull off one valve cover, start the engine, and one at a time back off the rocker nut until it starts to clack, then tighten it until it just stops clacking, do this slowly. That should be zero lash, now give it 1/2 to 3/4 turn more, again slowly. Repeat for each valve. I have found I can feel through the ratchet when the rocker is loose better than I can hear it.
Then replace the valve cover and repeat on the other side. It is a crude method but does work.
Now replace the two quarts of oil that shot out all over the place.