shake shake shake ! 1973

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by Lou6t4gto, May 27, 2018.

  1. Lou6t4gto

    Lou6t4gto Veteran Member

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    I did find 1 "out of round "Tire. brand new, not even 30 miles on it. brought it back to the dealer and he tells me "this is a 6 year old tire", I'll SELL you a new one. I said, I bought it from you, NEW, 1 year ago, You sold me and old tire. and it's not the first time they did that ! last time the new tires I bought from them dry rotted in the sidewalls after 3 years (tread still new). and of course he wouln't stand behind it ! if you are in Ocala Fla, NEVER but tires from Family Tire ! but thats another story. still have a shake
     
  2. budro6968

    budro6968 Veteran Member

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    I ask up front how old are the tires. I got burned before. I look at the date to make sure too. Been buying at Discount the last couple sets. Get them on the 6 months same as cash deal on the credit card. They have been good to me. I got a Nail in the side wall once, they replaced it no B/S.
     
  3. Dragonmedic67

    Dragonmedic67 New Member

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    Any chance this car was torqued out of shape 25 years ago? Pothole? Lifted wrong? Twisted frame?
     
  4. Lou6t4gto

    Lou6t4gto Veteran Member

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    I've had it for 43 years, so.... no
     
  5. TKLP

    TKLP New Member

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    Did you replace the idler arm?
     
  6. rocket dawg

    rocket dawg Veteran Member

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    You can date any tire, they have a born on date like Bud Light. Its a 4 digit code, the first 2 numbers are the week of the year so it will never start with a "53" or higher, the second 2 numbers indicate the year they were produced. In this picture it the 3rd week ( January) of 2004 TireCodeNumbers (2017_11_07 15_50_00 UTC).jpg
     
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  7. 70 SS/L78

    70 SS/L78 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    These types of vibrations can be a pain in the ass to figure out but it usually comes down to U-joints or driveshaft. If you're replacing the driveshaft look into an aluminum one.
     
  8. POS71RS

    POS71RS Moderator Staff Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I had the horrendous shakes for many years as well. I no longer do, but I don't know that I can narrow it to a single change.
    I'd check for slop around the U-joints, I know on mine, I can loosen the caps and move the joint significantly.
    My driveshaft is aluminum, so there's some possibility the lighter weight, for such a long prop shaft, is a possible bandaid.
     
  9. Lou6t4gto

    Lou6t4gto Veteran Member

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    replaced with NEW- steering box, idler arm , center link, upper and lower ball joints, upper and lower control arm bushings, tie rod ends,(inner and outer). right control arm (because the press fit for the ball joint was not as tight as I thought it should have been )all new urethane sub-frame to body bushings, frame connectors, rear leaf springs, all shocks. rear axles,new 4 wheel "disc" setup. wheels and tires. 700R , drive shaft, and mounts
    Doesn't leave anything "un-touched". LOL
     
  10. 70 SS/L78

    70 SS/L78 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    You've definitely put a lot of time and parts into it...
    What's the angle of your drive shaft at the rear axle? I seem to recall reading somewhere that you need at least 3 degrees on the U-joints. If it's less than that you will have problems.
    Does it continue to shake at any speed above 40 mph or does it smooth out at some point.
     

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