Shorty headers vs long tube

fatkid_racing

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Sep 21, 2005
1,049
Saginaw Texas
Thank you. I read a lot on site. I have picked up some good info. I'm going with the tremec 5-speed. I did want the magnum 6 speed but after driving my brothers vette with it although it is nice I don't need a double over drive. I think the 406 will have more than enuf torque to get me thru the 4 gears and with the 3.70 rear in the dana 60 I have already should be very nice. I did have 4.10s in it but swapped them for the 3.70s .kinda wish I didn't now but they will still be nice.Then the od will be the bonus. It's a weekend ride and to car shows . My 406 came in at 10.9 -1 compression. I got [email protected] flat tops,eagle esp rods and a 3.75 eagle crank all balanced. I had 1.5 Harland sharp rockers on it and it's got .840 lifters also. Not going different block although I'd like to but it survived a 150 nitrous blast so I think I'm good with it. I don't plan on any nitrous this go around. I may in future put a procharger on it,but then I susposed I'd be swapping cam again.

Do you have the part number of the rotating assembly you used? That way I can look up the piston specs. I know you mentioned your heads somewhere but don't recall what you said you were running. When it was built was it decked any?
 

80sz

sup
Feb 2, 2014
3,989
Buffalo,n.y.
It wasn't decked. Dart 2 sportsmans that have ben 3 angled and 64cc with .220 on the intakes. Plus they were ported. The motor is 23 years old. You don't have to crunch numbers for me. I am not building the motor till fall and I won't be doing it. I'm getting painted first and it's going slow. A general idea of what to expect would be cool. I will have it put on a dyno so I will know what I got. I will reuse all the parts I can,one builder already said he's not into reconditioning the rods,said it isn't worth it . That surprised me,I thoght they were pretty good. I think there were different wrist pins in it also.
 

fatkid_racing

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Sep 21, 2005
1,049
Saginaw Texas
Get her pretty and holler at your pal fat kid in the fall. I'll at least double check the builders math for you. Most shops don't recon rods because they don't have an $8 an hour punk kid to stand in front of a rod hone all day (I was that punk kid). It's pretty simple, knock the bolts out buzz the rod cap, buzz the rod, cap, torque, hone. If they won't do it, send them to me and I'll get'em did.
 

80sz

sup
Feb 2, 2014
3,989
Buffalo,n.y.
Thanks. I will do the rods or send to you if they don't want to. I have some friends that have some equipment and they will show me. I'm not scared. Thx for all the replys and and I'll keep everyone updated on my build thread,the deer slayer 81. I ben working around the clock and only have Sundays to work on car.
 

owen1980

Veteran Member
Jun 23, 2004
429
Brownsburg, IN
I am going with 68609 (D port version) for clearance on my 80Z since I am putting in Moog 5664 springs up front. I have watched the engine masters episode a couple times on long tube vs. mids. I have a modified ZZ3 engine(350hp) so I think long tubes would only show a difference on time slips and not my seat dyno. Car will see very few 1/4 mile runs even though I can walk to Indianapois Raceway Park.
 

80sz

sup
Feb 2, 2014
3,989
Buffalo,n.y.
Thx Owen . I watched few vids sugested also. Im not too worried about a few hp loss either and I dont plan on a high reving motor . I want more reliable and torque with better maners. Im not smelling like gas from a obnoxious cam that makes zip for vacuum. I think the ones lowend said will be good and will give me the clearance I want. Kinda want a tranverse muffler also, see classic sells a kit with a x pipe and I never liked seeing the mufflers from the back. Think it will be a cleaner look
 

owen1980

Veteran Member
Jun 23, 2004
429
Brownsburg, IN
I was going to go with the Pypes Race Pro transverse for ultimate clearance under the car but I scored a whole Race Pro standard kit for $305 on Amazon. Only issue I will have to work out is my kit is for long tubes so I will have to source some small 45 degree bends for the collector. Another reason for Hedman is the ball flange collector seems to get a lot of positive remarks. From everything I have read 2.5" to 3" exhaust makes more of a difference then long tube vs. mids.
Most of my experience comes from EFI cars back when I was a GM dealer technician, my butt dyno could not feel anything under a 20 hp difference.
 

80sz

sup
Feb 2, 2014
3,989
Buffalo,n.y.
I'd really like the ones bop fly suggest ,mid length but lowend said they hit the z bar and I'm converting to a tremec but if some one found a way around it I'm all ears.
 

Bandit723

Veteran Member
Oct 1, 2016
4,044
Waupaca WI
From what i have experienced changing up the exhaust their is either hidden costs on an existing system or the cost for new , if you do this your self their is time to align the pipes up -aspirated engine will require some tune time.
 

80sz

sup
Feb 2, 2014
3,989
Buffalo,n.y.
From what i have experienced changing up the exhaust their is either hidden costs on an existing system or the cost for new , if you do this your self their is time to align the pipes up -aspirated engine will require some tune time.
yup,I need a complete system. I can weld and want it primo so I will be doing it myself. The only thing I won't be doing on this build is final paint and motor rebuild . I don't have the equipment or that knowledge. Everything else I will bombard the site with novice questions till I can do it on my own. Thanks everyone for all the help so far . I appreciate it and want the nasty members to know it.
 




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