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Discussion in 'Engine Topic' started by BastardBerlinetta, Sep 21, 2020.
As you have probably already figured out, we like pics!
Welcome aboard. When I was in College I bought and drove a 1968 Z/28 in ‘73. A friend of mine owns it today.
Just do a little at a time when you get the funds.
Thank you, honestly some of the most solid advice I could receive. I keep forgetting that I should be spending more time enjoying the car than building it, cheers .
That depends on just how hard you drive it .and what maintenance you do to it.Also get one with a warranty for just in case.I have a 1979 Z-28 with a custom built engine .And have been working on it for a long time. A good day to you.
I appreciate the response, I do drive it hard but I also take good care of it so I'm not worried about me being the death of the thing. Currently looking at a 383 stroker kit and a trick flow top end kit which has me at 3k so I'm tempted to pull the trigger on that, if you have any suggestions though it'd be much appreciated! Thank you : )
Welcome to the site. Rear wheel HP means you are going through the entire drive train loss...as you most likely already know. A standard tranny would help your cause in reducing loss of power to the rear wheels. A 383 might get you where you want to be IF everything else is chosen correctly. Definitely need some good flowing heads. If a big block is in your future, which might help with longevity, then maybe your suspension may need some altering to accommodate.
Can't agree more with this. You can plan and build your goal on the side, as you enjoy and drive the car.
I did basically the same thing as you want to. Built a 383 over the winter, re-did the interior while the engine was out, drove the car for a bit, re-did the front end, resurfaced rotors, blah, blah, on and on, always something to do.
Anyways, a good 383 can hit your goal without the weight and changes needed for a big block. Dont just rush to bolt the parts on though. I'm probably at 470ish hp, but not at the wheels. Getting past that mark is where the time and dollars and attention to detail are more crucial. Im happy at this power level because i still make good engine vacuum, run on pump gas, never overheat, shift at 6500 and still make good power down low. My wife and kids can drive the car without worry, but I can smoke the tires in the first 3 gears when i want.
Doing the things it would take to make another 80-100 hp with a small block would compromise the every day driveability of the car, at least for me. That is where a big block would get you there easier. Or a more expensive small block with more cubes. A true 600hp (flywheel) 383 is probably doable and driveable, but you really need the right combo of parts, good machine work, tolerances and assembly. Oh, and money.
Thank you, as I do more and more research I'm slowly starting to realize that those numbers to the wheel are a bit harder to attain with my current budget and time for the car. I'll definitely see if I can find any professionals out in my area, if not definitely ask around here since everyone seems to be super helpful. I'll try to keep this thread updated with what route I end up going and what power I end up making!
I'm extremely happy that you replied since we're in relatively the same boat, after more research and talking to everyone on here I've realized what you already said so I might cut down on my original hp goals (at least till I have more time and resources for the car). I also realized that 99% of my time spent driving it will be on the roads so 0-60 pulls, small straights and entering the highway will be where I have most of my fun which would come down to mainly torque. Do you feel like your car in it's current state has that push you in your seat feeling or if you have 0 - 60 times that you know for your current build that would also be appreciated (if you have an exact part list that would be amazing too). I appreciate the response a ton, have a good day.
Yep, GM roller ready block with mechanical fuel pump provision and 1pc rear main seal, Eagle 383 forged crank and rods (5.7 inch rods), hypereutectic flat top pistons with 4 valve reliefs, ATK 195cc intake runner 64cc chamber heads (made by Profiler) Howard's hydraulic roller cam #180265-10 (.530/.545 lift, 233/241 duration @.050 on 110 LSA), Edelbrock Performer RPM qjet intake with divider cut down to air gap spec, comp cams gold arc 1.5 roller rockers, comp double roller chain and gears, comp hardened pushrods, comp adjustable guideplates, factory gm roller lifters, factory oil pan with factory windage tray, melling oil pump, Holley Street Demon 750 carb, carter fuel pump, DUI HEI distributor. Tremec TKO 600 5-speed trans with 3.73 and yukon posi. I had a machine shop do the block, crank and rod/piston assembly, I'm at 10.1:1 static compression ratio.
I have between 13-14" idle vacuum, idles nicely, no drama with hot/cold starts (took some work) and as far as power, it actually makes me giddy every time I go through the gears. The cam should be done by 6000, but it seems to pull harder the higher I rev it, so I've been shifting at 6500. I have no 0-60 times, but I also have no traction. With decent traction, it could probably run low 12 quarter mile, and I know it tops over 150 mph on a lonely stretch of road, but I bail out at that point because I dont think the tires are up to that.
Overall, very happy with it. It seems to run better than the parts list suggests, but I dont have much else to compare to except fast street bikes and old cop cars. You could probably go a bit more cam with a bit more compression and careful ignition and carb tuning. There are more experienced guys here who may weigh in.