So I opened a cam of worms, now I'm nervous!!!

Discussion in 'High Tech Retrofits' started by QUAKE_WARS, Jul 20, 2009.

  1. Aceshigh

    Aceshigh Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Hmmmm.......but I might be upgrading to a Gen IV LSx engine in the future.

    Otherwise I'd strongly consider that move. :cool: :bowtie: So I'll need the LS1 BH. :)
    I got the clutch and all the other stuff too.....which will be sitting on standby til the day comes.
     
  2. kyphur

    kyphur Veteran Member

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    I took that into consideration too and I figured I could always sell my QT bellhousing for whatever I needed to buy a LS based bellhousing. Or I could just put it towards a new QT bell for LS series which is what I would probably do.
     
  3. QUAKE_WARS

    QUAKE_WARS Veteran Member

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    Well the shifter hole and Dynamat is done. Did I go overboard with this, YES I did. Remember, I did this for noise and heat. Did I have to put a boot over the cover plate I made NO. Do I have to put NEOPRENE over the Dynamat, NO, But I am.

    You can get away with just a DYNAMAT install and be VERY happy with it!!!

    I still need a little to do. I will still post pics as I go.:bowtie:

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  4. QUAKE_WARS

    QUAKE_WARS Veteran Member

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    [​IMG]
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  5. QUAKE_WARS

    QUAKE_WARS Veteran Member

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    I even got a new toy to install :)

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Aceshigh

    Aceshigh Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Nice power distribution fuse panel.
    Looks like you plan on some serious sounds.

    Install + Dynamat looks awesome.
     
  7. QUAKE_WARS

    QUAKE_WARS Veteran Member

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    Its the same one PROTOUR has.

    Thats only for my HID headlight relay, electric fuel pump relay, electric
    fans relay, and one more port for whatever:)

    Buy a Mig. You will pick it up quick!!
     
  8. Aceshigh

    Aceshigh Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I have a quick question.

    I've read that I will need to drill out my crank because the overwhelming majority of the motors I'm mating this to (olds 350) came with Automatic transmissions. Now I've read you can either drill out the crank for extra room for the input shaft, OR you can shorten the input shaft.

    The question I have is, I want to drill the crank out, but do I still REQUIRE this pilot bushing ??? I'm just curious because if I chose to shorten the input shaft instead, it wouldn't reach in as deep anyways I'd think.....right ?? If I drill it out......I'm thinking I need a VERY specific size drill bit and I have to be precise or the pilot bushing won't rotate properly correct ??? This seems harder then what I thought the write ups I've read so far stated. So I'm trying to confirm whether this pilot bushing in the crank is a MUST have item.

    Anyone ??
    BTW I got this from Post #73
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2010
  9. QUAKE_WARS

    QUAKE_WARS Veteran Member

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    Yes you still need a piolt bushing. Just get the pilot holed drilled out as needed.
     
  10. PolarBear

    PolarBear Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    You always need a pilot bushing as far as I know, it prevents the end of the input shaft from moving laterally with all that movement from the clutch and stress. Also the bushing does not rotate in the crank, it is supposed to be an interference fit so it stays tight in the crank. If it rotated you could potentially wear the crank hole out and you dont want to do that when the bushing is only a $5 bronze part.
    If you read in some manuals it talks about having the pilot bushing pressed into the crank before it is installed in the engine....
     

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