Spoiler paint removal

Discussion in 'Body Restoration' started by BigBlock73, Feb 5, 2021.

  1. BigBlock73

    BigBlock73 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I'm going to be putting a rear spoiler on my car that originally didn't come with one.
    I have NOS ends and purchased a used center section (Thanks Dave) that needs to have the paint removed, a lot of coats and peeling clear coat.
    I've been told not to use chemical paint remover as it can damage the fiberglass and cause adhesion issues.
    Searching the net, I've seen baking soda blasting being used on corvette's.
    I know sanding it all off is an option but with the curves this would have to be done by hand and be very time consuming.
     
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  2. badazz81z28

    badazz81z28 Veteran Member

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    Depending on your state....most off the shelf strippers are very weak! I personally would use a chemical stripper to get the thick paint off and then finish it with hand sanding method.
     
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  3. BigBlock73

    BigBlock73 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I took the spoiler to the autobody supply store for there advice.
    They said no chemical stripper for fiberglass, sanding only.
    Recommended sanding with a DA if I had one and knew how to use it, which I don't.
    So hand sanding it is
    Purchased a Memory Block sanding pad and 220,400 wet sanding paper.
     
  4. NOT A TA

    NOT A TA Veteran Member

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    If you have a compressor buy a DA to get most of it off but once you get to where you see the paint is getting thin switch to hand sanding using various curved or bendable blocks. After 40-50 years the spoilers have become wavy due to the different thicknesses and the rate the material they're made of shrinks. So by finishing with the blocks by hand you'll be straightening at the same time. Start with 80 grit if the paint is thick, switch to 180 when you can start to see through the paint before digging into the spoiler itself. Starting with 220 you'll wear out your arm before you're even half way there.
     
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  5. BigBlock73

    BigBlock73 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Was told the paint under the clear was good to leave and to sand off the clear. spoiler.jpg
     
  6. Jeep43

    Jeep43 Veteran Member

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    I would use a jitterbug palm sander to get past the failed clear and seal it. No need to get down to the base material.
     
  7. BigBlock73

    BigBlock73 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Started hand sanding with the 220 wet.
    It’s starting to get thru the clear
    Slow process
     
  8. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    I have used the "Circa 1850" brand paint stripper, typical Gel solution, used many times for fiberglass bodies/parts with heavy/multiple coats of paint be it urethane. and BC/CC. I cut with 80 grit, apply as per instructions and remove with hard plastic squeegee. Once down to the last few layers, (lacquer if old original OEM part) neutralize with water, then final scrub-clean with lacquer thinner and let it breath.

    Did all the Corvettes this way, biggest job was on a true '67 427 tri-power rag top/hard-top, side pipe and spinner car....was quick, not killing the compressor, no dust or risk of rounding off the body line sharpness.

    Not sure if it's still available in Canada or even the US, but it worked great and did not harm or soften the original car's fiberglass.

    might be an option for you.
     
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  9. BigBlock73

    BigBlock73 Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Was told the stripper allowed in NY doesn’t work anymore because of new laws
     
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  10. G72Zed

    G72Zed Veteran Member

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    Mmm, I see you dilemma BB73, , we here in Canada are the same, and are worse/better with the VOC laws pending how you look at it.

    Many products removed/changed in the automotive world (waterborne paint), perhaps this "Circa 1850" it's not available anymore either in Canada, too bad, it worked well.
     

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