SST Clutch Hydraulic Master Cylinder Hole Location

[NateC3]

I'm partially installing an SST TKX conversion in my '79 Trans Am (having a shop do the heavy stuff) and am getting close to yanking the brake booster/master cylinder out to install the clutch master cylinder and pedals. I have read here and elsewhere that there should be a dimple in the firewall where the factory hole should be centered, and I presume I should use that as the centering spot for the hole I need to drill, but I haven't found that described specifically for second gens using SST's kit, and their info unhelpfully hits nearly all GM cars but second gens.

I see a couple of folks here have used this hydraulic kit and was hoping that you might chime in on how hard locating the dimple on an auto car was (I can't see the area of the firewall yet, but it feels smooth) and what it took to get the master cylinder rod lined up correctly. I have a set of (presumably) repop'd pedals from SST, and I read about needing to re-drill mounting holes, but we shall see with some trial and error there.

Thanks.

 

[biker]

I will have a look at my car tomorrow. It wasnt an auto to start with, but it was still tricky enough to get the mc lined up correctly. Once you have the booster off, you will be able to figure it out.

Pack a lunch to take the booster off though. The combination of stud location, nylock nuts, sealant goo and studs that are a foot too long is magical.

You will like the hydraulic. Works well.

 

[Fbird]

IIRC the little prink punches (2x) are for the BOOT that goes over the clutch rod. I do NOT recall there being a prick punch for the CENTER of the clutch rod hole....here is the info you are looking for ...just ai never measured MINE as I forgot to before re-assembling the booster and stuff. ^^^^ biker is a little OFF on his description of the booster mounting JOY! the bolts are NOT a foot too long....only 11" TOO long.

It would be really great to aquire the A,B and C dims

 

[NateC3]

I will have a look at my car tomorrow. It wasnt an auto to start with, but it was still tricky enough to get the mc lined up correctly. Once you have the booster off, you will be able to figure it out.

Pack a lunch to take the booster off though. The combination of stud location, nylock nuts, sealant goo and studs that are a foot too long is magical.

You will like the hydraulic. Works well.

Thanks. I also ordered a DSE bracket to use as a template/reinforcement plate that I might re-drill to fit the SST cylinder if that ends up being workable. I read one good write up that mentioned it centering the rod well, but that seems to be the joker that you have to fight either way on this setup.

My wiper motor quit working a while back (need to sort out the wiring) so I pulled it off, which will help access to the inboard brake booster nuts immensely, but my expectations are low for the booster removal.

 

[NateC3]

IIRC the little prink punches (2x) are for the BOOT that goes over the clutch rod. I do NOT recall there being a prick punch for the CENTER of the clutch rod hole....here is the info you are looking for ...just ai never measured MINE as I forgot to before re-assembling the booster and stuff. ^^^^ biker is a little OFF on his description of the booster mounting JOY! the bolts are NOT a foot too long....only 11" TOO long.

View attachment 141129

It would be really great to aquire the A,B and C dims

Thanks. As mentioned above, I have the DSE bracket coming too, it may line up to the stock clutch rod hole, at least that was the impression I got after reading a thread here and a referenced write-up. I can check it when it shows up to at least get the "B" measurement.

 

[NateC3]

FWIW - here's the DSE bracket....