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Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering, Brake & Wheel Topics' started by simso, Nov 8, 2020.
when pic scrolled by my mobile I thought it was a dog turd! LOL!!!
Anytime you unbolt (to change bushings) or remove your subframe you will need to make sure it is square before you torque it back down. I just recently reinstalled my subframe and then added weld-in frame connectors and solid bushings. I squared my subframe by doing the following: To get you close to start there are holes in the body and the frame that were used at the factory when assembly the frame. The factory used a pin that was .610" diameter for alignment. Get yourself a pin to do this or you can grind down a 5/8" bolt (.625"dia.) if nothing else. Locate 4 spots, 2 at front and 2 at rear and make sure they are the same spots on both LH & RH sides. I actually measured from 2 locations in the rear, the frame and the hub. Using a plumb bob on a string mark the floor at all 4 locations. Cross measure LH rear, to RH front and RH rear to LH front. Once these measurements are equal (+/- 1/8") your frame should be square and you can torque it to spec. I've added some of my photos. Hopefully this helps you.
Hi everyone. New here, and just bought a 81 Berlinetta from a co-worker. Currently trying to repair rotted out torque boxes/rear frame kicks and I'm trying to reinforce the rear spring mounts with some subframe connectors after I get new metal welded back in. The car currently has urethane subfame bushings that look to be installed incorrectly. The bottom cup is smashed flat and the washer is concaved like there is no sleeve in the bushing.
Anyway, I'm trying to figure out the best/proper solid mounts to buy.
I was looking at these, but cant tell if they're solid or aluminum.
Welcome aboard! Congrats on the car, nice to see someone else joining. No reason why you shouldn't be broke like the rest of us!
The ones in your link are solid aluminum. Very good, I have them in my 81. Careful which ones you order and which ones you receive. Global west makes a set that is stand-alone, and a set that works with their subframe connectors. The ones that work with their connectors will come with the connectors, they are about 1/4 inch shorter to accommodate the thickness of the connector which is sandwiched between the subframe and the bushing. You then have to order the other 4 as a kit. If you go with a different brand connector, just order the kit in the link.
As for the global west connectors, they weld to the rear subframe rails that I think u said you are replacing.
They work well and fit nice.
Thanks for the reply, biker.
Yes, I noticed that GW has different part numbers depending on if you are using their SFC's or not. I think I might look into building my own SFC's and rear frame rail/kicks and tieing them into the torque boxes.
Just need to shore up that area since the rust is pretty bad. Luckily the inner rockers are still good,somehow???
Yes. Knowing what I know now, if I was at the point in metal fab that you are at, I think I would build my own too.
Biker makes a valid point, at this stage making your own makes sense, with some 2"x3" .125 wall and channeling through the main cross brace and into the TQ boxes works very well, material is cheap, and if you have a MIG, it's the time it takes, but worth it.
Yeah, I've pretty much decided on the 2x3 home made route. I have a 175A MIG, OXY/ACET, and access to mills and lathes.
I just wish I could find some better pics of how to tie into the torque box. The picture links in the stickied thread are dead, unfortunately. My frame rails are toast midway up the kick-up, so I'm trying to decide if I should drop the coin on some 70-73 rails and only using the front part, or just trying to fab-n-scab them back together.
Scope creep is a MF'er...
1/8 inch seems pretty chincy to me, id go 3/16 or even 1/4 inch, then you got some metal to weld to.
I’d say rails since your in deep already