T Top Problems 1980 Z28

Discussion in 'Troubleshooting & Diagnosis' started by prats4, Dec 9, 2006.

  1. Fbird

    Fbird Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    on a 40 yr old car...it doesn't take much. Also consider it doesn't take much for them to leak either. You really should use solid bushings with SFC. MY T-TOPS leaked due to the aluminum frame around the glass was blown out and missing the little plastic insert.
     
  2. serpent710

    serpent710 Veteran Member

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    They guy that installed the weather-strip did it wrong so water gets under the strip and runs into the car when it rains. I have to buy a new weather-strip and do it myself, just havent gotten around to it because..well...it's the sunshine state lol
     
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  3. Francesco

    Francesco Veteran Member

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    Thanks for the bushing info. I always wondered about that.
     
  4. Francesco

    Francesco Veteran Member

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    Yes i understand. Ive been to Florida in fort Lauderdale and yes its not motivating when you are surrounded by palm trees lol. Mine dont leak because the moron who installed them used Windshield urethane instead of the 3M weatherstrip sealer...Im gonna have fun removing that once I decide to change them.
     
  5. Fbird

    Fbird Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    [​IMG]
     
  6. Francesco

    Francesco Veteran Member

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    Hi everyone! I just installled some T-top seals on my Z and i learned a few things...It took me six hours to do the job for one side lol. Yes, I really took my time. I did a soft mount and its really important so you can adjust ans you go. Once the soft mount is done pay attention to the gap between the balls and the secondary seal. Stretch the secondaries until they meet the primary seal balls. The T-top must be latched when you do this exercise. Once that is done, use a washeable marker or masking tape to mark the meeting point between the primary and secondary seal. Dont forget, The primary MUST be well adjusted before you adjust the secondary. Mine are not perfect but still well done. Only a serious downpour could have a few drops get in between the glass but thats not even sure. Once you have installed the seals a few times over a period of years, you only get better at it. I got ****ed twice before and now its better than last time. Experience makes a big difference! I have a question. Is there a gasket maker available to close any mini gaps between the seals? Like some kind of RTV that you can mold on the seals and then cut them with a razor?
     
  7. biker

    biker Veteran Member

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    Thanks for sharing some good info. I dont have anything that can help as far as the rtv goes, but I will be paying attention to this.
     
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  8. Francesco

    Francesco Veteran Member

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    Hi Brent! Im going to do the other side once i feel motivated lol. My fingers were sore as hell from all the tucking and pushing the stripping in the galleys. In all, its not a hard job but damn you gotta be as precise as possible if you want it to be waterproof. At the end of the day, with the new stainless brackets and well installed seals, you do have that sense of pride when you look at the final work. Its awesome!
     
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  9. 8pack

    8pack Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Ok…

    a couple of things I think weren’t covered….
    There are multiple adjustment locations for the Tops. As noted there is an adjustment on the top itself.

    There are additional adjustments where the pins go into the brackets on the sides of the opening. The large Phillips heads screws can be loosened and then the bracket can be adjusted in a couple of different directions to improve the seal and increase the downward pressure when the top is latched.

    To get a good fit you need to adjust both the top itself and the brackets where the pins go in at the front of the frame opening and the rear. It takes some trial and error.

    The adjustment of the window is the third location. The window can be adjusted to close farther up as well as the top tilt in or put to get the right fit of the glass against the seal on the T-top.

    once everything is adjusted in all 4 places and if there are still gaps you can use 3m polyurethane marine sealant. Put a bead down on the area with a gap that needs to be filled and then lay some plastic wrap or even better heavy duty paint tarp plastic over the top and then install the top. It will ooze out a bit but that is ok because you can just trim it with a razor later. It remains very flexible, especially when applied thinly.

    Let it cure with the tops on for at least 3 days, 7 is best and your leaks should be gone…..I would avoid driving it so the flexing of the body doesn’t distort it while it cures.

    https://www.westmarine.com/buy/3m--5200-polyurethane-adhesive-sealant-black--124778?recordNum=15
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2021
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  10. Francesco

    Francesco Veteran Member

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    Hi! Your input is awesome! I was wondering which RTV i could use to close the mini gaps between the primary and secondaries. Yesterday, i accidentaly drove in the rain and i was at the same time able to test my left seals. One thing i noticed and already knew is that my door is not gaped properly and that means the glass cannot be exactly fitted the way it is intended to so even if my seals are perfectly installed, they will leak a little. i will take care of that. As for the bolt on the door that allows the glass to tilt, i have not tried that yet but im sure it will make a dfference. Right now my glass has a small opening in the front driver corner and top corner. In order for me to make it fit better i have to roll up the window with the door open and then close the door because if i close the door and then roll up it the glass will be obstructed by the seal and leave a small gap. I think the right side will be much better because the door is perfectly gaped. I am going to try your marine RTV for sure. Its going to solve the problem of the mini gaps.

    Thanks!
     

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