T Top Problems 1980 Z28

8pack

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Aug 29, 2007
3,047
Western, MA
There is no one single bolt for the window adjustment. Search in here. There is a detailed thread somewhere on how to adjust your glass. It is slow tedious work.

In case it wasn’t obvious, I should also clarify that to adjust the front and rear brackets on the opening you have to remove the trim covers.

I forgot about the door adjustment alignment. Definitely get your gaps right and the door properly aligned before adjusting anything else.

Glad I helped. There are A LOT of different adjustment points to get the tops to fit right and the windows to open and close properly. You also want the tops tight enough that the dont vibrate loose at highway speeds or rattle.

Good luck!
 

Francesco

Veteran Member
There is no one single bolt for the window adjustment. Search in here. There is a detailed thread somewhere on how to adjust your glass. It is slow tedious work.

In case it wasn’t obvious, I should also clarify that to adjust the front and rear brackets on the opening you have to remove the trim covers.

I forgot about the door adjustment alignment. Definitely get your gaps right and the door properly aligned before adjusting anything else.

Glad I helped. There are A LOT of different adjustment points to get the tops to fit right and the windows to open and close properly. You also want the tops tight enough that the dont vibrate loose at highway speeds or rattle.

Good luck!

Yes! I know that you have to remove the trim covers to adjust the screws for the brackets. Im learning all this as I fix it. Yes theres a sticky on the doors and 8 or 9 points of adjustment in the door. Looks like a hell of a job.
 

Francesco

Veteran Member
Hi guys! Ive been playing around with my T-top for a few days and found out how not to make them leak without any extra material such as silicone and stuff. I found 3 adjustement points...The brackets on the center of the roof rail where you push the glass in, the chrome brackets at the top of the A and B pillars and the rods in inside the tops. To get a perfect seal, those 3 points have to be more or less adjusted but the most important adjustement is the pie wedges on both the primary and secondary seals. The secondary seal pie wedge has to really come on top of the primary wedge on the both ends and there has to be an even resistance when you latch the top on. When the seals are new, its a bit hard to latch in but it does and if the wedges come togheter well, then its impossible for water to get in. The other factors are of course the door glass and the correct gaping of the doors however those are indepedant of the weatherstripping fit. A good installation will never have leaking issues. It takes time to do a great job when your new at this stuff. The more i look at it and the more i understand how they work and let me tell you, GM did a good job when they built these T-tops. I got the real old school fisher body service manual for 79 and it also helped alot. When someone tells you that T-tops always leaked its false. Its either they never had one or they just dont want to service the problem and they keep leaking.
 

8pack

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Aug 29, 2007
3,047
Western, MA
Ok…

a couple of things I think weren’t covered….
There are multiple adjustment locations for the Tops. As noted there is an adjustment on the top itself.

There are additional adjustments where the pins go into the brackets on the sides of the opening. The large Phillips heads screws can be loosened and then the bracket can be adjusted in a couple of different directions to improve the seal and increase the downward pressure when the top is latched.

To get a good fit you need to adjust both the top itself and the brackets where the pins go in at the front of the frame opening and the rear. It takes some trial and error.

The adjustment of the window is the third location. The window can be adjusted to close farther up as well as the top tilt in or put to get the right fit of the glass against the seal on the T-top.

Sometimes the answer is right there and you don’t even realize it….

Glad you got them to fit properly.
 

Francesco

Veteran Member
Sometimes the answer is right there and you don’t even realize it….

Glad you got them to fit properly.

Hey pal! Well...I figured out how it works now i need to adjust it so its on right. The A pillar squeeze is right on but the B squeeze is off and so i need to pull the secondary out more so that it can seat on the B pillar ball. Then when you latch it, both A and B wedges squeeze correctly. Thanks 8pack!
 

8pack

Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Aug 29, 2007
3,047
Western, MA
As you drive it you may need to adjust it every few months. As you pointed out they can be leak free. I think the issue was no one made periodic adjustments and as the car flexed and the moulding aged thinks loosened up. I never did because I didn’t know better back then.

Update the thread periodically especially after you get a hose and water on it!
 

Francesco

Veteran Member
A lot also has to do with the type of seal your using. Right now the ones i got are really hard! The rubber is hard around the doors and top. When you latch, you can feel that they are new. Next summer i would be prepared to get softer ones and start all over lol. I tried getting soffseal on the website but i cant. Maybe because im in Canada. By the way, what really causes the tops to rattle is the rod bolts under the plastic trim cover. The bolts on mine are blue (or are they all blue?) and you have 2 on each side. Mine were loosened up with time and i had no idea until i tried to unbolt them with the wrench. They had no torque at all! I was able to unbolt them with my fingers! Once i got them nice and bolted in, i took it for a spin on the crapiest street i could find near my domicile and there was no more rattling! That fisherbody book is sooo good!
 

Francesco

Veteran Member
So i adjusted my seals ok. Now the problem is coming from the latching. I noticed that the corner of the t-top panel comes over the side chrome trim along the B pillar. On the passenger side, the gap is ok. When I latch on the left side, the T-top will shift out on the B pillar. Its not the seals or brackets where you latch in. If the rods are not evenly lined up, can the t top shift out when you latch it? Im going to add pictures for this.
 

wdstamper

Veteran Member
May 17, 2014
177
Florida
i know this is an old thread but looking for a little help with my new t top seals (all dry fit. no adhesive yet). I’ve adjusted the car mount adjustments as well as the t top adjustments. This is as good as I can get the pie wedge joint on the A pillar. B pillar is perfect. I’m thinking I need to fill the gap with 5200 adhesive and cut it with a razor blade when it cures. Or, cut back the t top seal (on the t top) until it meets properly with the A pillar seal. Any thoughts on getting the pie wedge to meet correctly? I’m tired of it leaking. Thanks.
 

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