TH350 Rebuild Online: Free DIY Post

Discussion in 'Transmission & Driveline Topics' started by jakeshoe, Jun 3, 2006.

  1. Cardinal

    Cardinal Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Chevy 350: I'm going to answer this one for Jake.

    I rebuilt my first TH350 in 1980 which went into my 64 Chevy II drag car. I bought a B&M Transmission Kit 30229 (I didn't know Jake then so I couldn't buy one of his rebuild kits which I'm going to buy one of his kits here soon to rebuild our youngest son's TH350), a B&M Manul Pack Kit 30219, and followed the directions to the letter. The transmisson is still in use in another car (the last I knew, it was in a Mazda RX7 with a 355 SBC being hit by a 250 HP NOS system!).

    I would have to say that anyone with a good working knowledge of hand tools (feeler gauges, wrenches, piston clamping tool, a length of 3/8" chain to pull the pump, etc.), able to follow written direction, and have clean work area should be able to rebuild an automatic transmission.

    You also have to inspect all the parts, case, and valve body so that you don't put badly worn or broken parts back in.

    Good manuals help. I have Helm manuals, Chiltons, Motors, Haynes #10360 (which is a really good automatic transmission manual), and now Jakes instructions to go by.

    BTW, I do NOT advise putting a manual pak kit in ESPECIALLY in a street car. It can be dangerous! Understand that with a manul pak, when you select a different gear, the transmission WILL shift into that gear! If the engine is at peak RPMS and you select a lower gear, say goodbye to your engine, transmission, axles, and possibly your vehicle! I prefer to modify the govenor so that the transmission shift points are raised to the peak rpms of the engine. Our youngest son's 83 S10 that has a 350 SBC with a TH350 shifts at 5600 rpms every time with the shifter in drive.
     
  2. Cardinal

    Cardinal Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    HELP! On the first page, Jake talks about leaving a lip seal out but I'm at loss as to exactly which one he is referring to in the following quote:

    Can someone post a picture of what he is talking about as until I can clear it up I can't start putting JD's TH350 Christmas present together!
     
  3. jakeshoe

    jakeshoe Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    It's the seal that actually goes on the direct drum, and divides the apply piston into two halves.

    Be sure you plug the hole in the case at the 4 o'clock position too.
     
  4. Cardinal

    Cardinal Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Jake:

    Thanks. When I get out in the garage again I'll try to find what you have described.
     
  5. Cardinal

    Cardinal Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I TOOK the time to go out in the garage to find that elusive seal! I found it right away after I tore the direct clutch piston back out.

    Here is a picture of the direct clutch with the seal sitting on the face of the direct clutch hub:

    [​IMG]

    Here is a picture of the direct clutch hub with a screwdriver pointing to the goove where the seal would normally go:

    [​IMG]
     
  6. Cardinal

    Cardinal Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Here are pictures of the tools I fabricated for working on the TH350. I will post dimensions of all the parts when I get a chance to sit down with my computer and draw them up.

    First tool is to remove the pistons where the center of the hub is open:

    [​IMG]

    Here is it installed on a hub:

    Top:

    [​IMG]

    Bottom:

    [​IMG]


    Here is the tool I fabricated when the center of the hub has no opening:

    [​IMG]

    Bottom of the tool in a vice (notice the hole in the angle iron for a shaft to go through there):

    [​IMG]

    Shaft with hub installed on the tool:

    [​IMG]

    Press part of the tool installed on the spring ring:

    [​IMG]

    Top plate of the tool installed on the press part of the tool:

    [​IMG]
     
  7. kik_start

    kik_start BANNED

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    good job on the tools Cardinal!

    Love it!
     
  8. Cardinal

    Cardinal Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Thanks. Haven't had a moment's "extra" time to post the dimensions of all of the parts so I'm taking a break now:

    TH350 Tools

    Inside Piston Tool:
    1) 1/2” X 13 all thread rod 12” long
    2) two 1/2 “X 13 nuts
    3) Round disc made from ¼” hot rolled steel. ID: 3“ OD: 4“
    4) ¼” X 1” bar stock cut or weld into a “U” shape and weld to disc. Drill a hole in the center of it so it can be tapped with /2” X 13 thread.

    Outside Piston Tool

    1) Two 6” long 1 1/2” X 1/8” pieces of angle iron
    2) Round disc made from ¼” hot rolled steel. ID: 3“ OD: 4.5“
    3) 1/8” X 1 1/4" X 1 1/4” angle iron 12” long with a 1” hole in the center of one side
    4) 1/4” X 1” X 12” piece of steel bar stock
    5) Two 5/16” X 20 all thread rods about 15” long.
    6) Four 5/16” X 20 nuts to use to bolt them to the bar 12” bar stock
    7) Two 5/16” X 20 wing nuts and two 5/16” washers. NOTE: any size all thread rods and applicable size nuts can be used (¼”, 5/16”, 3/8”, ½”) I used 5/16” because it’s what I had on hand.




    Thanks
     
  9. Cardinal

    Cardinal Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    Jake: someone else asked but you didn't answer the following question: which check balls do you put back in and which ones do you leave out?

    The B&M kit has you put #3 and #4 in for a heavy duty application and only #4 for the track. Is that what you recommend?

    01/03/11: I emailed Jake and he said to put all four check ball in.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2011
  10. Cardinal

    Cardinal Veteran Member Lifetime Gold Member

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    I emailed Jake with the following question:

    Next question: I'm up to putting the accumulator back in the transmission. I have a blue and an orange spring. Which one is the correct spring for an accumulator? Do I put the correct one in or leave it out?

    Blue on the left.____________________________________________ Orange on the right.
    [​IMG]
     

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