The ULTIMATE C5 brake reference post

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Staff member
OK, its not my information, but the information from our membership that is going to be in this topic for everyone else to share and use.

Use of this information is strictly up to you and bears no responsibility for any lack of mechanical skills or injuries resulting from any braking system modification that you perform.


Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Oct 20, 2003
i have been getting a lot of pms about the c5 parts list so i will list the parts i used. i will 2 altenatives. one c5 12.8" rotor and one c6 z-51 13.4" rotor. maybe a mod can sticky this. please


brake lines 40.00 part number 6178561,352_DOT-Legal-Brake-Line-Hose-Kit.html
kore3 bracket 85.00
hubs 110.00 i got mine from member ed miller. this is zinc washed with arp studs. eds screen name is ebmiller
rotors napa 120.00 these are slotted and drilled. non slotted and non drilled are $60.00 a pair
calipers and abutments ebay 200.00 shipped. you can find deals on ebay you just got a shop it.
2 caliper banjo bolts 10.00 gm. you will need these as the banjos that come from speedway are not the right thread pitch. chevy dealer will have them
new bearings 50.00


here you will need to replace the abutments and rotors. since you are buying special abutments you can get new red zo6 calipers on ebay for under 200.00 bucks

rotors and abutments 300.00 i got these from ed miller also. i dont know if he will get into the parts business. sorry ed. but maybe he will chime in if he doesnt want to sell parts and list up his supplier. he was kind enough to tell me where he got his c6 stuff i just forgot.
red zo6 calipers ebay 190.00 new. check ebay brakes searching corvette. they are always on there.

caliper grinding for the z-51 rotors. this may not be necessary with your wheels


as you can see its easy to do a c5 swap for under 500.00 a z-51 will run around 600. some people are making the brackets themselves and selling for less. i already had a lot of this stuff so my original brakes came in under 400 for the c5.

also dont pm me asking if you wheels will fit. how should i know. my wheels fit. if you have wheels like me then yes they fit but here is how with c5 you will need a 3/16" spacer. with the z-51 you will need to grind the caliper a little. i have pics below. go to and get there template...better yet here it is

this mod will require you to cut your spindles either with a grinder or sawzaw i have used both. if you use a grinder with cutoff wheel wear kevlar knee pads if you use a sawzaw you will need to grind the cuts to finish. here is a pic of a finished spindle


even with the wilwood 12" brake upgrade you have to grind your spindle. now i am not knocking wilwood as i have them at all 4 corners on the lemanster. but my thoughts are if you already have to grind the spindle why not put bigger brakes on that will stop better, for 200.00 cheaper. the c5 is basically a 13" brake kit that baer brakes sells. i beleive they are asking 1300.00 or so, for the same c5 stuff. you guys can do the math. i am a cheap bastage.

i think i covered most of it. maybe others can chime in. this is just a helpful tool for people wanting new brakes.

**EDIT** you will need a 1" bore master cylinder. there are many to choose from. same basic braking principals apply. you will also need a proportioning valve if you take your stock rear on out. i used a cpp master with prop valve built in. i have had no problems with it. but its a pain to get one. constant backorder/quality control issues. if a stock master is 1" you could use it. i dont know the size of a stock master though, do some research. i believe people have used the s10 aluminum master for c5 front and rear. and this has worked.
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Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Dec 17, 2004
Acton, CA
C5 Corvette Brake Swap for a Second Generation Camaro

As we all know our stock brakes can be less than desirable in their stopping power. Plus when we add all these performance parts it is easy to forget that you have to STOP. The C5 Corvette brake swap has become one of the preferred brake upgrades for many classic cars including the second generation Chevrolet Camaro. The C5 brake swap is highly affordable compared to other kits offered by Wilwood, Baer, and the likes. This guide should be used in conjunction with the instructions provided by Kore3 with their brake kits. This article will cover the details that concern the installation of C5 brakes specifically on the 1971-1981 Camaro.

First Things First

For the brackets, extensive amounts of guidance, and advice, I consulted the very helpful staff at They offer complete kits and individual parts for just about any aspect of your C5 brake swap.

Due to the size of the front rotors this swap requires at least 17” wheels. Make sure your wheels clear the caliper and any other obstacles before committing.

The Front

The front swap offers the benefits of a massive 13” rotor and a twin piston PBR aluminum caliper. I suggest purchasing the brackets from Kore3. The brackets include complete instructions on where and how to cut your stock spindle.

Now that you have safely and secured your car up on jack stands you can begin dismantling the front. Remove the wheel and tire, remove the caliper, and remove the stock rotor and hub assembly. Remember when removing the caliper from the car there is going to be brake fluid, make sure you have a way of draining the fluid safely. Once all that is removed and you now have a bare spindle, inspect it and make sure it is in good condition.

The Cut

The main cut is described and illustrated in the Kore3 instructions. It mainly amounts to cutting off the original calipers mounts that were cast into the spindle. Once the spindle had been cut you will need to drill and tap new holes for the C5 brake calipers bracket to mount to. You will be using the two of the three dust shield holes as your bracket mounting holes. Kore3 has the drilling and tapping instructions fully laid out so just follow those. One thing to aid in the drilling and tapping is to use a section 1” square tubing to aid in the process

Brake Lines

The front brake lines are relatively easy to do if you use the Kore3 braided flex lines. The C5 caliper has a metric banjo fitting, and then other end of the line matches the SAE inverted nut that is stock to the second generation Camaro lines. I really recommend using the Kore3 custom stainless steel braided lines; they can make them for your application and allow things to hook right up.

Master Cylinder

The master cylinder is one of the key components to the swap. The master cylinder that I used was a 1983-1990 S-10 master cylinder AC Delco part number 18M310. It has a 15/16” bore so it works well for the application by increasing the line pressure. The only issue is that the end of the master cylinder that fits into the stock Camaro power brake booster does not fit exactly. This problem can be remedied by turning down the diameter of that end. After the master cylinder slips into the power booster unit, make sure the pushrod is long enough to reach the master cylinder and perform its full duty. I did not have a problem with this, but it is a good idea to check.

From this point you will have to make new brakes lines from the master cylinder to the old lines and the proportioning valve.

I have also heard that a master cylinder out of a fourth generation 1993-2002 Camaro will work without any modifications. This again, is what I have heard not what I know.

Proportioning Valve

For the swap I used a SSBC proportioning valve hooked up to the lines heading to the rear brakes.

The Hub

Now since the C5 Corvette rotor is a hat rotor, meaning it is not integral with a hub like a stock second generation Camaro, a hub needs to be made for the swap. You have two choices for a hub.

The first choice is to purchase one of Kore3’s billet aluminum hubs. This is a very nice piece but it also has a price tag beyond my budget.

Your next option is to make your own hub. This starts with the one piece rotor and hub assembly off a third generation Camaro. This first step is to separate the rotor from the hub. I used a cut off wheel on a drill press to separate the rotor from the hub. It is a slow process it takes about 30 minutes. This method of separation could be hard on your drill press, so you may want to consider using the services of your local machine shop.

Now you have the beginnings of your hub. Begin the clean up of the edge of the hub and take a look at where the hub needs to be turned down to accept the inside of the C5 hat rotor. This takes some time on a lathe, it is a trial and error process, but you will get there. Once again a machine shop could do this for you if you do not have access to a lathe.


For our application simply use a third generation Camaro inner wheel bearing and a second generation Camaro outer wheel bearing. Once again refer to Kore3 instructions to fully check the needs of your application.

Wheels Studs

For wheel studs I used Dorman 12-1.5 X 54mm serrated bolt part number 610-323. You may end up using something different depending on your wheel and lug nut choices.


Veteran Member
Lifetime Gold Member
Dec 17, 2004
Acton, CA
The Rear
One of the most striking signatures of a performance car is rear disc brakes; I think we can all agree discs are much better than those nasty inefficient drums. Before you tear into the rear you need to know some things. First, you are going to need two left side C5 rear calipers. If you use a right hand side caliper on the right side of the car, the caliper will interfere with the staggered shock of our cars. So just use a left side on the right side, and, well, a left side on the left side. Kore3 has a parking brake assembly that will now work on the C5 brake swap Once again you will be using the Kore3 C5 rear disc bracket for GM 10/12 bolt rears.


To adapt the C5 rear disc brakes to our cars you will need to remove the axles. First get the car jacked up and firmly placed on jack stands. The remove the wheels and then remove the brake drums. Then you will need to remove the differential cover and inspect your gears since you have the opportunity. Now push the axles towards the center of the car and remove the C-clips. Then remove the axles. Now that the axles are out of the way remove the backing plate and all that other drum brake stuff. The parking brake lines will be removed. Then the brake lines will need to be removed to a certain point too. Now that all the old has been removed, check your housing for anything wrong and clean the housing flange so it is smooth free of dirt and such.

If you have stock axles you will most likely need to turn down the axle flange so it will seat the C5 rotor properly. With most aftermarket axles you should be fine without machining. It is good practice to check though. Now time to get things really going.

Mounting the Brackets

The brackets mount to the housing flange surface. Since Kore3 includes extensive instructions on this part of the swap there is no need for me to repeat it.

Brake Lines

Make it easy on yourself and use the FlexKore stainless steel braided hoses. Kore3 can fabricate SS braided flex lines to fit the C5 rear brakes but they can be fabricated with SAE ends. This makes installation as easy as making a short 3/16 SAE line between SS flex line and stock “T” on the left side of the axle housing and A longer line from the “T” to the right side flex line. Let’s not make this any harder than you have to.

Though if you must you can do what I did and make you own lines. Another approach is what I did. I used the stock C5 rear caliper and flex brake lines. The only problem was to adapt SAE “T” fitting to the metric flex line. A trip to the local auto wrecking yard to get metric flared nuts removed from a third generation Camaro front brakes helped fix the problem.

The next step was to find a bubble flaring tool, I got lucky and found one on The part number is ATD-5464 for about $25.00.

Now all you got to do is get some new 3/16 SAE double flare line from your local auto parts store. Design the path of the line then cut it to length, slide on the metric inverted nut. Now use the bubble flare on the cut end of the 3/16 line.

I welded the new flex line brackets to the axle housing to secure the flex line. After this just hook up the C5 line you can be on your way.

The Brakes

So by this point you should have your axles turned down and in place, new studs pressed in place, if needed, and the brackets mounted. Now put the rotor on and put the caliper on. You will need to be using Locktite at certain points in the installation, such as the brackets to the axle flange. Follow the Kore3 instructions closely.

Make sure all spacing between the calipers and rotors are even and straight. Now that pretty much does it for the rear.

Finishing but Important Touches

Now that you have the brakes on your car you must bleed the system obviously. Since the whole brake system has been run dry it is going to take a while and a lot of brake fluid to get the system full. Just keep pumping the brake pedal and adding fluid. Once it seems to be full, start bleeding the brakes. Start bleeding the system from the furthest corner from the master cylinder to the closest. Once you are satisfied with the pedal feel and know that there is no air left in the system lower the car to the ground, obviously with wheels and tires on the car with the lug nuts tightened up. Then torque you’re your lug nuts to the proper specifications and check for anything unusual at all. Now you can test your brakes in a controlled environment. Some where safe and where no other cars or things you can hit are around.

Disclaimer: READ THIS

I,, nor Kore3 Industries are responsible for any damages whatsoever to you or your car during the Corvette brake swap process or afterward. The person who is performing the swap should be confident in their mechanical abilities and done by someone who really knows what they are doing. One must understand that brakes are very important but can also result in damages if something is done incorrectly. If one decides to do the swap proceed at your own risk. If something goes wrong it is your fault, do not blame damages on anyone but yourself or the person who did your brake swap, well maybe the person who performed the swap if they messed up.

You may feel free to link to this guide but please give proper credit to its author and the helpful staff at Kore3. Do not take information from this guide and claim it to be your own. I will hunt you down and we will have a little chat about it. So make it easier on everybody involved and just give credit where credit is due. If you have any questions, comments, or would like to add your experiences to the guide then feel free to send me a message on Thank you and I hope this guide will make your swap an easy and enjoyable process with a big reward in the end.

Written by: 3_z28camaro on with permission by Kore3 Industries. 2006.


Staff member
K5JMP said:
I have compiled a list of parts for the conversion. Ed Miller(aka ebmiller on this board) sells front hubs for $115-ish shipped with new races already pressed-in.

Seals are 8871's and use the same bearings you already have.

There is a vendor (thepartsladi) on eBay to get pads and Zo6 calipers (PBR powder coated... sharp!) at a significant discount (all new in sealed boxes) for $314 for all four corners . They also sell GM performance ceramic pads for about $100 bucks all four corners. The Hawk pads are better, but pricey.

Hardware needed will be mostly metric for abutment to brackets. 12mm x 9 pitch. Bracket to spindle will be SAE 1/2" x 12 pitch.

Brackets can be bought from Kore3 for a reasonable price... maybe hardware too.

Stainless braided lines can be had from Speedway Motors... best price I found anyway... they also sell the manual MC from CPP with internal proportioning valve.

Here is the list of GM parts:

GM Part # / # needed / Description / Price each

12530682 / 1 / Caliper (standard C5) - $87.82 (Guide pin bolts included)
12530683 / 1 / Caliper (standard C5) - $87.82 (Guide pin bolts included)
10445856 / 1 / Rotor - $50.75
10445857 / 1 / Rotor - $50.75
12455799 / 2 / Pad abutment bracket - $27.68
10333772 / 2 / Front caliper brake hose - $19.71
12530697 / 4 / Pad abutment guide pin - $3.44
12530703 / 4 / Guide pin boot - $2.87
22163795 / 2 / Banjo bolt - $2.32
10139097 / 4 / Banjo bolt copper washers - $0.36

88895128 / 1 / Caliper (Z06) - $85.07 (Guide pin bolts included)
88895129 / 1 / Caliper (Z06) - $85.07 (Guide pin bolts included)
12480154 / 1 / Hawk HP+ pad set - $94.50
18039366 / 1 / Durastop Front pad set - $45.20
88909667 / 1 / Durastop Ceramic front pad set (w/springs & shims) - $49.88
88952008 / 1 / Z06 front brake pad set (w/springs & shims) - $97.52

If ya need anything else...squawk..

Just more info to add to this great post....

EDIT - for any 3rd gen tips (since we have overflow from other places) -
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