The Z-Corn. My 80 Z28.
- Thread starter 80Zcorn
- Start date
Last week we decided to have a compression test and leakage test on the engine. Right after I replaced the valve covers since I didn't like the old ones.
- the old look.
After that we wanted to start the engine to let it run a little bit after months it didn't move.
The engine didn't start since there was no spark and we know we had an issue with the distributor since it happened before. The distri. didn't get 12V. and we knew there is a problem with it connectors. We decided to take it out of the block to inspect it better.
The old harness seems to be junk and needed to be replaced.
I came to install the distributor back but then its bolt and washer felt from my hands down the block (there's a long thread about it here - https://nastyz28.com/threads/stupid-engine-mistake-any-recommendations.341791/) and eventually I dug the bolt with a magnet but couldn't locate the washer so I took off the pan and then find it laying on the engine block floor. lip.
Then I added a new gasket to my shopping list and added some extras like heater hose clamps and wire loom separators so I'll be able to upgrade my engine bay appearance a little bit.
Since it will take the package around a week or two to get here I decided to fix some small stuff that bugged me.
First I tried to lift the exhausts (2.5") higher since I thought they'd put too much pressure on the e-brake. I've straightened them and hanges which A. seems to be much more correct for the cable now. B. Made a lot of difference with how my pipes are looking (See post #514 for a reference). I'm really happy with the result. It does look good and I managed to get rid of the big ugly clamp with the hook that was attached to the rear hangers.
I took care of a small leak from my rear end which is now bone-dry (next up is fixing leaking from the engine and transmission).
And fix a lot of broken parts and cracks at my dashboard and dash bezel.
The dash was broken at the arch where the steering column sits. Fixed it. Some minor cracks here and there. Fixed. Glues vinyl that wasn't attached or stretched on the plastic. And lastly we made cylinder shape with epoxy and after they dried, glued them to the dash as brackets for the bezel and gauges panel. Seem to be holding great!
Going to try and finish all of the electricity in the car while I'm waiting for the delivery and hope with no more surprise - it will go smoothly and I'll be able to assemble the parts of the engine and turn it on in 2 weeks from now...
Must say big thanks to all of the members here and the great community they were very helpful and gave me enough details and answers with patience and huge knowledge. I hope I may assist others here the same as you were to me.
- the old look.After that we wanted to start the engine to let it run a little bit after months it didn't move.
The engine didn't start since there was no spark and we know we had an issue with the distributor since it happened before. The distri. didn't get 12V. and we knew there is a problem with it connectors. We decided to take it out of the block to inspect it better.
The old harness seems to be junk and needed to be replaced.
I came to install the distributor back but then its bolt and washer felt from my hands down the block (there's a long thread about it here - https://nastyz28.com/threads/stupid-engine-mistake-any-recommendations.341791/) and eventually I dug the bolt with a magnet but couldn't locate the washer so I took off the pan and then find it laying on the engine block floor. lip.
Then I added a new gasket to my shopping list and added some extras like heater hose clamps and wire loom separators so I'll be able to upgrade my engine bay appearance a little bit.
Since it will take the package around a week or two to get here I decided to fix some small stuff that bugged me.
First I tried to lift the exhausts (2.5") higher since I thought they'd put too much pressure on the e-brake. I've straightened them and hanges which A. seems to be much more correct for the cable now. B. Made a lot of difference with how my pipes are looking (See post #514 for a reference). I'm really happy with the result. It does look good and I managed to get rid of the big ugly clamp with the hook that was attached to the rear hangers.
I took care of a small leak from my rear end which is now bone-dry (next up is fixing leaking from the engine and transmission).
And fix a lot of broken parts and cracks at my dashboard and dash bezel.
The dash was broken at the arch where the steering column sits. Fixed it. Some minor cracks here and there. Fixed. Glues vinyl that wasn't attached or stretched on the plastic. And lastly we made cylinder shape with epoxy and after they dried, glued them to the dash as brackets for the bezel and gauges panel. Seem to be holding great!
Going to try and finish all of the electricity in the car while I'm waiting for the delivery and hope with no more surprise - it will go smoothly and I'll be able to assemble the parts of the engine and turn it on in 2 weeks from now...
Must say big thanks to all of the members here and the great community they were very helpful and gave me enough details and answers with patience and huge knowledge. I hope I may assist others here the same as you were to me.
After reading here about the trunk divider I decided to go on DIY one. Very happy with the results...
Installed the trunk mat and vinyl mat in the trunk. No pics of the vinyl but both were from Classic from a company named R.E.M.
Was a great fit and feels great quality. Can Recommend.
Dash is in with everything seems to work fine
Soon I will get the oil pan gasket installed, start the engine and check the gauges.
And made my trunk look like Frankenstein today while installing a new weather strip...
Installed the trunk mat and vinyl mat in the trunk. No pics of the vinyl but both were from Classic from a company named R.E.M.
Was a great fit and feels great quality. Can Recommend.
Dash is in with everything seems to work fine
Soon I will get the oil pan gasket installed, start the engine and check the gauges.
And made my trunk look like Frankenstein today while installing a new weather strip...
Each time I'm making a progress... I'm getting myself into new things that require restoration 
Although I bought new after markets belts since my original was in a bad condition, dirty, oily and the roof mechanism didn't work smooth, after reading threads here I decided to try and clean them so at least I will be able to use the female part of it since it was too hard for me to give up the GM buckle... I soaked the belts (all of it) in a tub with hot water and some laundry detergent. Water became black-brownish pretty quick... Pulled them out, and do the process again. Took me around 6-7 cycles till the water were clear but eventually it happened, the belts are looking great and even the chrome buckle is shining. Now it will be drying for couple of days under the sun...
After that I decided to take care of the windows that moved up and down slow and noisy. I took the windows and all of the regulator mechanism off.
I'll clean the rails and the rollers THAT WAS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO OPEN (!!!) will be replaced by new ones.
I also noticed that the bushings on the regulator assembly aren't in the best shape but I couldn't find where to purchase them. Seems like every store sells the whole mechanism with the motor that will cost me around 500$ to import for the cheapest mechanism I saw...
Are the bushings themselves replaceable?
Is there any place I can buy a power windows regulator assembly without the motor which maybe will make things a little cheaper for me..? I really don't want to reuse the old ones...
Although I bought new after markets belts since my original was in a bad condition, dirty, oily and the roof mechanism didn't work smooth, after reading threads here I decided to try and clean them so at least I will be able to use the female part of it since it was too hard for me to give up the GM buckle... I soaked the belts (all of it) in a tub with hot water and some laundry detergent. Water became black-brownish pretty quick... Pulled them out, and do the process again. Took me around 6-7 cycles till the water were clear but eventually it happened, the belts are looking great and even the chrome buckle is shining. Now it will be drying for couple of days under the sun...
After that I decided to take care of the windows that moved up and down slow and noisy. I took the windows and all of the regulator mechanism off.
I'll clean the rails and the rollers THAT WAS A PAIN IN THE ASS TO OPEN (!!!) will be replaced by new ones.
I also noticed that the bushings on the regulator assembly aren't in the best shape but I couldn't find where to purchase them. Seems like every store sells the whole mechanism with the motor that will cost me around 500$ to import for the cheapest mechanism I saw...
Are the bushings themselves replaceable?
Is there any place I can buy a power windows regulator assembly without the motor which maybe will make things a little cheaper for me..? I really don't want to reuse the old ones...
hubedobeedo
3rd times a charm
looking good! i got my new belts from Morris
hubedobeedo
3rd times a charm
never thought about using battery clamps like that! get ur done
I got my belts from classic industries made by a company named seatbelt solution. I'm surprised that they are cost 100$ over the price I bought it for.
But the original ones are starting to look good so there's a great chance I'll reuse them.
As for the clamps... Well... Improvising my friend.
But the original ones are starting to look good so there's a great chance I'll reuse them.
As for the clamps... Well... Improvising my friend.
Back at the days I bought used cluster on eBay since it had the 135 mph and lately I realized that's a v6 cluster (tachometer didn't spin right and yellow line was at 4000) I decided to take the tach from my old original cluster and install it in the used one I bought so I'll have the right tach with a 135 mph speedo. Was easy but very delicate. I also reset my odometer so it will be easy to follow maintenance.
I also thought about fixing the non working clock. Any ideas how to do it?
I lift the car and saw coolant at the rear of the block and pan bottom. Never happened before. Any ideas why? What should I check?
Plus i searched for the oil unit location since i want to connect the oil pressure cluster light, i searched near the filter but what I saw didn't seems like a hole for the unit and then i noticed two more holes at the front of the block that seems like they have no purpose... One of them have a bolt threaded to it but it doesn't seem like it attached to anything. Any directions...?
Finish the car is getting close. Your help helps a lot!
I also thought about fixing the non working clock. Any ideas how to do it?
I lift the car and saw coolant at the rear of the block and pan bottom. Never happened before. Any ideas why? What should I check?
Plus i searched for the oil unit location since i want to connect the oil pressure cluster light, i searched near the filter but what I saw didn't seems like a hole for the unit and then i noticed two more holes at the front of the block that seems like they have no purpose... One of them have a bolt threaded to it but it doesn't seem like it attached to anything. Any directions...?
Finish the car is getting close. Your help helps a lot!
